t18 to c6 conversion
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t18 to c6 conversion
I know most people swap out a C6 for a T18, but my clutch and trans are both about to die and I have a rebuilt c6 sitting in the garage. So what do I need to do the swap? I already have the trans, I know i will need to get a flexplate. I have an older BM truck megashifter sitting around so I can use that instead of changing the whole colum. Will the trans cross member be the same or will i need a new one? Also, will I need to get a new driveshaft or the stock one work? BTW Im working on a 1982 f100 300ci 2wd 9" rearend. Thanks
Elder User
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 729
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From: Peoria, Arizona
Thats a lot of transmission for that engine. C6's are notorious for sucking power but are built like a rock.
as long as the transmissions are the same length including bell housing the drive shaft should not need to be shortened/lengthened. Does your C6 have a torque converter in it?
Your clutch pedal is going to be sure annoying but you can pop it off and put spacers where the pedal used to be on the hanger. I've had a c4, a c5, and a t18 on my f100.
as long as the transmissions are the same length including bell housing the drive shaft should not need to be shortened/lengthened. Does your C6 have a torque converter in it?
Your clutch pedal is going to be sure annoying but you can pop it off and put spacers where the pedal used to be on the hanger. I've had a c4, a c5, and a t18 on my f100.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,558
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From: New Zealand
You'll probably have to alter the driveshaft anyway - at the least, changing the front yoke to suit the C6, & probably shortening too.
There's some adjustability with the crossmember, - several sets of holes & slots (& it can be reversed in some cases) to allow for different transmissions.
You also will need a vacuum line for the modulator, plus a cooler & lines. The front hole on the trans is hot oil out, the rear hole is cooled oil returning in.
And the neutral safety/reverse light switch will need setting up, unless you are planning on not using it.
The Haynes manual shows the adjustment for the on-trans type switch - red/blue wires are for the starter solenoid; the reverse light wires are purple/?......they're the other two anyhow
.
I just swapped a C6 in to replace an AOD - it took about 18 hours in total. The trans swap itself was quick enough - it was all the small stuff - making & altering gearshift linkages, wiring, driveshaft, vacuum line etc - that added up.
There's some adjustability with the crossmember, - several sets of holes & slots (& it can be reversed in some cases) to allow for different transmissions.
You also will need a vacuum line for the modulator, plus a cooler & lines. The front hole on the trans is hot oil out, the rear hole is cooled oil returning in.
And the neutral safety/reverse light switch will need setting up, unless you are planning on not using it.
The Haynes manual shows the adjustment for the on-trans type switch - red/blue wires are for the starter solenoid; the reverse light wires are purple/?......they're the other two anyhow
.I just swapped a C6 in to replace an AOD - it took about 18 hours in total. The trans swap itself was quick enough - it was all the small stuff - making & altering gearshift linkages, wiring, driveshaft, vacuum line etc - that added up.
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