help...transmission xmember
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From: Jax
help...transmission xmember
ok so I'm in the process of going from the manual trans to a c6 auto....having issues with the trans crossmember. the originally one will not go back into place and I ordered a 2.5" drop one and that is too much of a drop for the trans..angle is bad. is there a company out there that makes a trans crossmember that has 0" drop so flat across for the trans to sit on? like the design of the trans dapt crossmember but like I said the 2.5" drop didn't work out. would like one like the one from trans dapt just no drop. thanks for the help and intel
Fleet Mechanic
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I'm not clear on why you would need any drop at all making the modification you mention. What vehicle are you working on? When I changed my three-speed to a C-6, I only had to move the crossmember to the adjacent (already existing) hole. I'll post a picture for you tonight.
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From: Jax
I'm not clear on why you would need any drop at all making the modification you mention. What vehicle are you working on? When I changed my three-speed to a C-6, I only had to move the crossmember to the adjacent (already existing) hole. I'll post a picture for you tonight.
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From: Jax
Tuned
Joined: May 2008
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From: Somerset, OH
thinking out loud, are your engine perches in the correct set of holes? From memory the perches for a v8 use the different set of holes in the front crossmember than the I6. So if you should be in the front set but are in the rear instead, then the engine will be back too far reducing clearance at firewall and trans tunnel. Others who have messed with the perches more recently than me can chime in with more accurate info.
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From: Jax
thinking out loud, are your engine perches in the correct set of holes? From memory the perches for a v8 use the different set of holes in the front crossmember than the I6. So if you should be in the front set but are in the rear instead, then the engine will be back too far reducing clearance at firewall and trans tunnel. Others who have messed with the perches more recently than me can chime in with more accurate info.
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From: Jax
Here is a shot of the xmember just laying between the frames and the trans is as high as it can go before it hits....
What it looks like from the other side.... current mount is the mount that matched what vehicle the trans came out of
What it looks like from the other side.... current mount is the mount that matched what vehicle the trans came out of
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Fleet Mechanic
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g4g2g7 has a good point regarding the frame engine perches. I just went through that myself, having reinstalled them in the wrong holes. For your I-6, you're going to use the forward set of holes, which will move the engine/trans forward about 3 inches as compared to mine in the photos. The photos show mine in the "rear" holes, so your mounts should be just forward of this position, looking down on them. If you didn't remove the perches, this probably doesn't apply. The height of the crossmember you see in the previous photos should be about the same as yours...about 2-3" above the frame rails, and is the original crossmember that supported the 3-speed. This height was the same for two other crossmembers that I have...one from a 65 and one from the 74 which the C-6 came out of.
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Another....I don't know why I see two bolts hanging down on your transmission mount. The mount should sit over the crossmember like a saddle on a horse, with only one bolt going through the crossmember front-to-back. Make sure you have the trans mount on properly....it's hard to tell in your photo but doesn't look right. Of course, it was much easier to install my setup with the cab off, but you may have to saddle the trans mount on the crossmember first, slide it under the transmission tailshaft from the rear, then install to two big bolts into the transmission housing. That way you don't have to lift the tailshaft over the crossmember.
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From: Jax
Another....I don't know why I see two bolts hanging down on your transmission mount. The mount should sit over the crossmember like a saddle on a horse, with only one bolt going through the crossmember front-to-back. Make sure you have the trans mount on properly....it's hard to tell in your photo but doesn't look right. Of course, it was much easier to install my setup with the cab off, but you may have to saddle the trans mount on the crossmember first, slide it under the transmission tailshaft from the rear, then install to two big bolts into the transmission housing. That way you don't have to lift the tailshaft over the crossmember.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2015
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From: Tri Cities, TN
Trans mount
The mount i bought was for the year/make of what the trans came out of..... dont believe using the saddled mount will help get the clearance since the bottom of where the mount would mount to the xmember is at the top of the xmember. I will look at the engine perches to see if at any point the motor was moved by the previous owner but i didnt move the motor
Also I see a couple of things in your picture that don't look right. It appears that your floor pans are down on the frame, if your cab mounts are sound and in good condition I'm pretty sure you should be able to at least put your hand between the floor pan and the frame. Also that cross member between the radius arms is structural and if you haven't made provisions to re-connect it already you need to think about that.
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From: Jax
I believe this is the trans mount you need. NAPA BK6201032.https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p...032/BK_6201032
Also I see a couple of things in your picture that don't look right. It appears that your floor pans are down on the frame, if your cab mounts are sound and in good condition I'm pretty sure you should be able to at least put your hand between the floor pan and the frame. Also that cross member between the radius arms is structural and if you haven't made provisions to re-connect it already you need to think about that.
Also I see a couple of things in your picture that don't look right. It appears that your floor pans are down on the frame, if your cab mounts are sound and in good condition I'm pretty sure you should be able to at least put your hand between the floor pan and the frame. Also that cross member between the radius arms is structural and if you haven't made provisions to re-connect it already you need to think about that.
As far as the body mounts go never thought of checking those
Logistics Pro
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From: Tri Cities, TN
I forgot to mention there is another part that goes with that trans mount. It is a metal strap that bolts up to the transmission and passes under the rubber part of the mount it's there in case the rubber fails and prevents the transmission from moving to far out of place. I think if you look closely at the pics Resonateur posted you can just see the end of it.
