I will be changing my pinion seal on the reserve if my 2006 f250. My question is: does anyone know the torque specs for the nut on the yoke? And has anyone done them before, if so what to expect?

 

Any help would be great.

 

It's not just a torque spec on the nut, you have to set the bearing pre-load correctly. I would highly recommend you take it to a shop that warranty's their work if you aren't comfortable with it. Leaving the pre-load too tight or too loose will cause a bearing failure down the road.

 

I did mine.it was really no problem.if I recall the torque was in. Lbs torque.I can get the spec.for you tonight.the one thing you can't do is crush the washer and start over,once its crushed its done.other than that mines been leak free for three years now.hang in there,ill find the spec for you,or at least the one I went by.

 

Steelhead, thanks

 

The bearing pre-load is in in-lbs, not the pinion nut torque spec. There is no torque spec, as it requires several hundred ft-lbs to crush the crush sleeve enough to achieve the proper bearing pre-load. Correct though, if you get the pre-load too tight, you can't just loosen the nut, you have to replace the crush sleeve and start over.

 

You have to know the rolling load on the pinion nut.which requires taking off the tires and brake assys.may sound unorthodox but sometimes you've gotta do stuff by " feel ". I did mine three years ago and have hauled some heavy stuff,from a 36 ft tt to loads of wood,and have had zero trouble with it.you can rent the stuff you need to do it though.if you don't trust yourself to do it do like cartmanea suggested,but if you've got a good comprehension of what needs to be done id go for it.here's the instructions.....the rear wheels and brake calipers must be removed to prevent brake drag during drive pinion bearing preload adj......install a inch pound torque wrench on the pinion nut,and record the rotational torque required to maintain rotation of the pinion through several revolutions........use a flange holder to hold the pinion flange while removing the pinion nut.......mark the pinion flange in relation to the drive pinion stem to ensure proper alignment when reassembling.......use a puller to pull the flange off,or sometimes a couple taps on it is all that's needed........after the seal is replaced put the flange back on,making sure its seated against the pinion bearing.......tighten the pinion nut,rotating the pinion occasionally to make sure the bearing is seating correctly.take frequent cone and roller preload measurements until the original preload is reached by rotating the pinion with a inch pound torque wrench.the preload spec is 8-14 inlbs for a used bearing,and 16-29 for a new bearing.that is measures in rotational torque,not nut torque.

 

If you have single rear wheels (not a dually), you have the 10.50 rear end, and it uses a crush sleeve to set the proper bearing preload.

I replaced my rear pinion seal, but I did not replace the crush sleeve. In order to do this, you must mark exactly where the pinion nut is on the pinion, and count exactly how many rotations the pinion nut makes to come off. After you have replaced the seal and put everything back together, you must re-install the pinion nut exactly to the specifications that you recorded.

I have done this on my Ford and my Toyota (both with crush sleeves) successfully.

ps. Buy the biggest puller that NAPA has. That pinion flange is a bear to get off.

 

I did what you did,and added a little torque to the nut when I put it back on.

 

steelhead2,
I just re-read your post and I am happy to report that mine has been leak free for about 3 years too.

I have been mostly commuting with it in that time (about 42K mi) and I have also pulled a light (6K lbs) travel trailer for about 3 K mi. No noise, no extra freeplay, so it must be working good.