My front and rear pinion seals are leaking and I was told I had to pull the axles, is this true???

 

I will give it a shot. Try the search function.

If the third member is leaking at the case, you will have to pull the axles to remove it. Use RTV in place of a gasket.

The front pinion seal is behind the pinion nut.

That pinion nut preloads the crush sleeves of the pinion bearing. Those sleeves are supposed to be replaced if unloaded, but you may be able to replace the seal successfully without doing so.

Good luck.

John

 

On a nine inch you would have to reset the preload. A dana 44 dosent need this and can be simply taken apart and replaced.

 

HOW DO YOU KNOW IF YOU HAVE A DANA 44??

 

Do you have a removeable inspection plate on the rear end of your differential? If so you have a dana 44 or (rare) dana 60.

You should be able to pull the pinion nut and yoke off on a nine inch. You must be careful to do this. If you move the pinion shaft at all I would assume the sleeve to be compromised and it needing to be reset.

 

What I do is once the apart and seal is replaced.Then when tightning back up.
Use loctite or better yet replace nut(supposed to every time removed)And do NOT use impact.Tighten with a ratchet about as tight as I can with out crushing the sleve further.This is by me done with a 12" long ratchet.I have never ruined a set of pinion bearings after pinion replacement when done this way.I have seen plenty ruined by guys with impacts.Once the crush sleeve is crushed an impact is not required.I dont EVER use an impact when building a rear end to assemble.I have a tool to hold pinion and a VERY long ratchet.I feel that you can not tell where your torque reading is at well enough.If you crush the sleve too much then yes you will have to tear down and replace and crush it to proper rotating torque.

 

Welcome to FTE

There is one pinion seal, not two.

The pinion seal will be found inside the rear end behind the companion flange that the driveshaft connects to.

You do not have to pull axles to replace the pinion seal. I've never heard of any such thing. The axles have nothing to do with the pinion seal.

If the axle seals are leaking...then you have to pull the axles.

The preload is adjusted on the 9 inch with a crush sleeve, as you tighten the pinion nut, it crushes.

Because it crushes, it cannot be used over again. You have to get a new one.

B7A4662A .. Crush Sleeve / Fits all 9" rear ends from 1957 thru 1986.

 

Uh, Bill? His user name is F1004x4owner. I'm sayin' he's got 2 pinion seals...one at each end of the truck.

 

I see what you are refering to, but the OP did not make it clear he has a 4WD.

The OP never made mention of 4WD, or the year of his truck.

In the other responses in this thread, no one else said anything inre to the front driving axle's pinion seal, all the responses are related to the rear axle.

The front driving axle is a Dana 44, which does not use a crush sleeve. The OP hasn't responded to what the rear axle is. It could be a Dana 44, or a Dana 60.2, or a 9 inch.

Typing over 28,000 posts since 11//2006, I found out a long time ago you cannot go by the users name to ID what vehicle he/she might have.

The problem here on FTE is, when some ppl ask questions, they do not list any pertinent details. Without knowing the details...there's no way they'll get the correct info.

 

Sorry about that, I have a 62 F100 4x4 and where the drive shafts enter the diffs, there's a slight drip...I haven't looked at the rear yet, but will post some pics after lunch.

I know it's frustrating when you don't have all the info, but I assumed by my handle that the vehicle in question was obvious...and for that I apologize...see you after lunch.

Thanks for all your help,

Dean

 

Alright, couldn't wait so here's some pics off my Blackberry..

 

Dana 44 front driving axle, Ford 9" rear axle.

 

Thank you!

Dean

 

FWIW- i have dug into my 64 4WD a coupla times and replaced the seals . the problem i ran into was the yoke was grooved from age and ended up replacing the yoke on one and sleeving the other. not having the proper tools to do the sleeving i had a machine shop do it for me. ended about the same price as buying a new one. just a hint to check out when you have it apart. the new seal will work for awhile but it will go right back to leaking if the groove is present. dutch

 

I'm thinking some RTV silicone in there too...