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Ok guys what is the best way to go about setting the hinges after removing hood for a engine install?
I spray painted the hinge before taking it off so I had a spot to line it backup but the doesnt seem to work after a complete cab,clip,grill, body swap .
So I wanna make a thread on how to make everything like the factory if your starting from scratch. I find the typical trouble spots are gettting the gap from top of fender to hood tight...so anyways how do the pros do it
Set everything in the middle, hood hinge to inner fender bolts and the hood bracket bolts.
I like to remove the latch at first so I can easily swing the hood open and closed.
If the rear of the hood is sticking up when it is closed you actually adjust the hood to open MORE. Either by lifting the front of the bracket or lowering the rear of the bracket. Sometimes both in combination. The center bolt acts as a pivot.
Once that is done, and it can take a while to get everything nice and the gaps decent you then set the latch height.
If the hood is maxed out forward and is still interfering with the cowl you'll then need to loosen the inner fender to firewall horn bolts, inner fender bolt and radiator core support and move everything forward.
Thanks Bullit you helped me out big time on this one. Once the latch was removed and hood set I realized the latch missed the catch bar by 1/2" . Out came the die grinder, slotted and shifted it over and she opens closes like a dream and gaps are nice
First leave all the bolts loose then..................... Well this will be the part where you'll need a midget. Leave the midget under the hood align everything so it will shut and look good. Then hand the midget the correct wrench to tighten everything.
Patience is the key! I like to take my sweet *** time when I work on my pickup. It's such a nice pace from the crazy heavy steel erecting I do at work.
Today is the nicest day this year first timewearing a t shirt outside. I Havnt flashed up the 428 in months so I took it down the gravel driveway and layed some good 5 foot long burnouts with both 44's digging! Lol that motors got some serious oomph especially with the 5:13's and traction bar in the rear. Sounds mean with the new chrome 3" tips out the sides too!!
Good tip on latch removal. I have messed with mine a few times. I would characterize my results as "acceptable" but I would like it to look better. Oh well. New fenders are about to go on so I will likely have to realign anyways. Removing the latch this time.
I have a gap running along the passenger side. The drivers side is fine but I cannot seem to resolve the pass side - or split the difference btwn the two. It is fine along the grill and against the cowl its just the pass side that I dont like. The gap is even along its length and not tilted forward or back but just too large.
I have a gap running along the passenger side. The drivers side is fine but I cannot seem to resolve the pass side - or split the difference btwn the two. It is fine along the grill and against the cowl its just the pass side that I dont like. The gap is even along its length and not tilted forward or back but just too large.
A bad or bent hinge can cause this I know. Hard to say. Seems like some of them are next to impossible to get perfect.
Keep in mind they weren't perfect from the factory so things, for the most part, is one big compromise.
Although I'm not sure I follow what kind of gap your speaking of... The hood to fender?
If the hood matches the cowl then you'll raise the fender to an extent. It will move up quite a bit, but watch how it lines up with the door. You have the lower rocker and "dent" to contend with.
I also removed the hood pop up spring too to help it to close and set it up.
Just make minor adjustments and if it improves keep going otherwise go back to where you were and try something else.
Keep in mind they weren't perfect from the factory so things, for the most part, is one big compromise.
Although I'm not sure I follow what kind of gap your speaking of... The hood to fender?
If the hood matches the cowl then you'll raise the fender to an extent. It will move up quite a bit, but watch how it lines up with the door. You have the lower rocker and "dent" to contend with.
Josh
Yes, it is the gap along the top of the fender. Where the hood and fender meet, parallel to the ground.