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Increase load capacity

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Old Apr 30, 2011 | 02:07 PM
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Increase load capacity

Without going to air lift, is there a fairly easy way to increase load capacity by about 300 to 400 pounds on a 1999 Ford Ranger, 2 wheel drive?

Thanks

Bruce
 
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Old Apr 30, 2011 | 02:42 PM
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AAL will increase capacity, but it's really how much can the axles/ drivetrain handle.

Not recommended, but I have hauled 2 tons in a 1/2 without breaking a sweat.

Josh
 
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Old Apr 30, 2011 | 02:43 PM
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Don't know what suspension you have, but maybe consider installing the factory payload package two. It'll increase load capacity to 1660 lbs, depending on engine, tranny, differential, tires & optional equptment.

Shocks don't carry load, they just dampen rebound of the springs. Springs carry the load, so extra leafs are needed to begin with, then extra auto tranny cooling, brake size & tires need to be figured in.

If you'll post the engine, tranny, differential ratio & cab type you have, I can post the max payload & tow capacity for how your 99 Ranger is equipped.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2011 | 02:50 PM
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Thanks all. Engine is a V6, automatic. Truck is called a Sport. Has jump seats in the cabin so I guess that makes it a slightly extended cabin. Don't really know much more about the truck. No special packages as far as I can tell so probably most basic suspension etc. but I do not travel far. Just need to haul 3 X 55 gallon drums of gasoline about 2 miles. Any experience with Stutmaster's Roadmaster Pickup Active Suspension? Looks easy.

Before anyone gets into legalities of carrying gas etc, I live on a Caribbean island so things are quite lax. I can't not find a large towed tank either or I would.

Thanks

Bruce
 
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Old Apr 30, 2011 | 03:07 PM
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Is it a one time deal or a regular routine to haul the gas?

One time deal just do it, regular upgrade the rear springs.

Josh
 
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Old Apr 30, 2011 | 03:40 PM
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I pick up gas at least 3 times a month.

Bruce
 
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Old Apr 30, 2011 | 04:03 PM
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If you have the standard payload package & a minimum tire size of at least 205/75/14, your good to haul 1260 lbs with the super cab.

Edit weight:
Seeing as how gas is 6 lbs/gallon x 55 gal drum = 330lbs per drum if it's full, x 3 full drums = 990 lbs, so you'd be good to go even with the standard payload package & smallest tires, without any suspension mods. 1260 - 990 = 270 lbs to spare, so if you don't weigh more than 270 lbs, your likely good to go as is, IF the suspension isn't rusted out, so check the spring hangers before you load it up.

Stopping distance on that puppy with 990 lbs load on it will have to be allowed for.

So make sure the tires are aired up to spec & the brake fluid is fresh & topped up & let us know how it goes.

BTW, did you get the spare tire wench fixed????
 
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Old Apr 30, 2011 | 04:29 PM
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"If you have the standard payload package & a minimum tire size of at least 205/75/14, your good to haul 1260 lbs with the super cab."

It just seems the front end get a bit light (squirrely) with 3 drums. I'll try keeping them all the way forward.

" IF the suspension isn't rusted out, so check the spring hangers before you load it up."

Looks Ok underneath. I'll do a more thorough check though. Suspension could use some tightening up.

"Stopping distance on that puppy with 990 lbs load on it will have to be allowed for."

Not much time to get to any speed from station to my place so not too much of a problem.

"BTW, did you get the spare tire wench fixed????"

Yes. Found one on eBay for $49 which I felt was a fair price. Shipping was free to Miami so that also helped. Even to repair the one I had I was missing the hanger etc.

Thanks again.

Bruce
Carib Inn
Bonaire
 
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Old Apr 30, 2011 | 05:12 PM
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Yeah, the load should be as far foward as possible. You should be able to put 2 drums side by side at the front, and the other centered between them. This will help to add some weight to front, rather than just on the rear.
1000Lbs shouldn't be much issue, especially just a couple miles, 2-3 times per month.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2011 | 09:00 PM
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If it was only a two mile trip, I would consider making two trips and not bother upgrading anything. Just a thought.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2011 | 10:30 PM
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Balancing the load a little better will eliminate the need to upgrade, in all likelyhood.
It doesn't matter how stiff the rear springs are, if you load the bed rear-heavy, the front will lift, making it drive squirrelly. Hence the reason that many japaneese built small trucks were never really capable of handling much weight. The rear axle on my nissan is a good 6-8" (or more) closer to the back of the cab/front of the bed than my Mazda built in USA by Ford. Just setting the fiberglass topped on the nissan makes the front bumper sit 1-1.5" higher than without it. I bet the same topper on the mazda/ford wouldn't raise the front at all, just lower the rear a hair....
 
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Old Apr 30, 2011 | 11:52 PM
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i use coil helpers on my truck, mount to the top of the axle housing and the top circles the bump stop. on mine i have about 1"-2" before the spring contacts the frame, so it still has stock ride when empty, however because my truck is a 4wd i have factory 2" lift blocks in the rear, so wiht a 2wd the springs would ride on the frame all the time. i had this very set on a 2wd supercab ranger and it rode a little stiffer empty but not too bad. i got them at autozone, i think they were about $25.00 for the set.
 
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Old May 1, 2011 | 12:25 PM
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Thanks for all the input everyone.
 
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