what is this seal?
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Elder User
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 726
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From: lincoln, NE
what is this seal?
im building a new 300 for my truck, its a 76 block, i ordered a timing cover gasket kit and i know what everything was for except for this
i think it goes here on the inside of the timing cover
but im not sure, any help would be greatly appreciated
i know you guys will come through for me, you always do so thanks in advance
i think it goes here on the inside of the timing cover
but im not sure, any help would be greatly appreciated
i know you guys will come through for me, you always do so thanks in advance
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,521
Likes: 16
From: Lost
Flat side goes in first, groove side towards gear. Also be sure to wipe a little oil/grease on the inside of the seal lip, or it can burn the lip off when you start the engine, causing a dreaded oil leak.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,182
Likes: 380
From: Near Los Angeles
It looks like such an innocent little seal, doesn't it? Actually, it is one of the trickiest seals on the early 300. I would buy a seal installer from Harbor Freight, and use it to install. What makes it tricky is that there is no way to center the timing cover/seal on the crank. The later models have dowel pins to center it, but not the earlier models.
I have done a few of these, and if you don't want it to leak oil there, then take into account how I install it. First, you need the kit with the little 'sleeve' that slips over the v.dampener to give you a better seal. It compensates for untold miles with the crank spinning in that seal and wearing. Put Use the sealant that comes with the sleeve. Silicone around the seal in t.cover. Install seal. Metal side goes away from engine. Use a good gasket sealer on t.cover gasket. Oil the lip of the seal. Slip the v. dampener through the seal and onto crank. That centers the seal. Now, while the v.d. is in place, tighten the t.cover bolts in small increments, using a 1/4" drive ratchet. Snug them all up. Now you can remove the v.d. and continue with the engine.
It is a good idea to use the EFI years one piece pan gasket. If you don't want to do that, then use care/caution installing the four piece gasket. I use weather strip adhesive on the front piece to make sure it doesn't slip. I also dab blue silicone at the corners.
Good luck.
I have done a few of these, and if you don't want it to leak oil there, then take into account how I install it. First, you need the kit with the little 'sleeve' that slips over the v.dampener to give you a better seal. It compensates for untold miles with the crank spinning in that seal and wearing. Put Use the sealant that comes with the sleeve. Silicone around the seal in t.cover. Install seal. Metal side goes away from engine. Use a good gasket sealer on t.cover gasket. Oil the lip of the seal. Slip the v. dampener through the seal and onto crank. That centers the seal. Now, while the v.d. is in place, tighten the t.cover bolts in small increments, using a 1/4" drive ratchet. Snug them all up. Now you can remove the v.d. and continue with the engine.
It is a good idea to use the EFI years one piece pan gasket. If you don't want to do that, then use care/caution installing the four piece gasket. I use weather strip adhesive on the front piece to make sure it doesn't slip. I also dab blue silicone at the corners.
Good luck.
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Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Boise, Idaho
I have done a few of these, and if you don't want it to leak oil there, then take into account how I install it. First, you need the kit with the little 'sleeve' that slips over the v.dampener to give you a better seal. It compensates for untold miles with the crank spinning in that seal and wearing. Use the sealant that comes with the sleeve. Silicone around the seal in t.cover. Install seal. Metal side goes away from engine. Use a good gasket sealer on t.cover gasket. Oil the lip of the seal. Slip the v. dampener through the seal and onto crank. That centers the seal. Now, while the v.d. is in place, tighten the t.cover bolts in small increments, using a 1/4" drive ratchet. Snug them all up. Now you can remove the v.d. and continue with the engine.
That's exactly how I did mine and it worked perfectly and never leaked.
x2 on getting the kit that comes with the sealant and that extra sleeve (about $7) more. The end of my crank had a definite groove from the old timing gasket. I don't think it would have sealed without that sleeve.
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Moderator
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 7,987
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From: Boise, Idaho
It's just the timing cover gasket kit. There'll be two versions. One comes with the gasket, the other comes with the gasket, sealant, sleeve, etc. I believe it's about $10 vs $17. You'll want the $17 one.
Junior User
Joined: Apr 2011
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Not to hi jack anyones thread, but I just tackled this seal last night, but on my 88 the timing seal has a lip on it and had to come out the fromt, I'm wondering when this change was made, if the new style seals have any advantage over the old style?
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,521
Likes: 16
From: Lost
New style has one HUGE advantage. You don't have to remove the cover to replace the seal. That's about it. I think the change came about in 87/88 as the EFI took over from carb. It could be related to the switch to serp belt(s) as well.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Near Los Angeles
Junior User
Joined: Apr 2011
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Everything I have says 87-88 was the switch to fuel injection, but I had to drive the seal out from the back to get it out, it had some kind of a blue sealer on the outside of the seal and the lip the mates to the outside of the timing cover. I think it would be almost impossiable to get it out from the front, but I have been wrong many times. Once more wouldn't supprise me.