Hello- I am new to this site as well as diesels. I recently purchased a 1993 F250 7.3l IDI ext cab XLT E4OD. The previous owner told me that it had tranmission problems and that it had been rebuilt. The truck has 190,000miels on it. They said the parts store told them it probally just needed a clutch pack.? It would skip gears and would not shift past 3rd.The over drive light also blinks codes. So I took it to the local transmission shop and they took codes off of it. They said the TPS was bad and it was also reading slip codes. But they said it could be because the sensor was bad. SO I replaced the TPS and it ran great and shifted smoothly. I then noticed the battery cable was corroded. I replaced the battery and cable and now the truck is back to running how it originally did. The tranny seems to be slipping. I have done quite a bit of research but am very new to diesels. I read that it could be the alternator but I have never had to jump the truck. The alternator light does blink as well as the over drive light. I have asked a few shops to look at it and they don't want a thing to do with it. Could it be the computer? Or transmission? I am willing to put some money into this truck as I bought it very cheap. Also does anyone know the exact numbers the TPS should be set to? I keep finding different numbers. I bought the Chilton book for this truck but it has very little for diesels in it. If anyone has any info it would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks!!

 

Bird dog

WELCOME to FTE between all the people on here that talk on a normal basis some one has been there down that so we will get you covered =) also take pictures of your rig

 

here is a little info on the tps sensor. Have your truck codes read again and then post the numbers here, there are about a million things that will cause that light to blink. When that light is blinking your in limp mode and destroying your tranny so do not drive it.
E4OD
FIPL Trouble Shooting & Adjustment Procedures (Diesel Applications Only)




Poor transmission performance and/or premature transmission failure may be caused by a defective Fuel Injection Pump Lever (FIPL) sensor, or sensor signal. The sensor is located on the Fuel Injection Pump (Figure 1) and is used to inform the Transmission Control Unit Assembly (computer) of throttle position.

Ford Motor Company recommends that the FIPL be checked or replaced every 50,000 miles. However, it is possible for a FIPL sensor to fail at less than 50,000 miles. Therefore, it is highly recommended that you install a new "upgraded" FIPL sensor when a transmission overhaul is performed on any diesel applications.

You should also be aware that early design FIPL sensors are not as desirable as late design sensors.

Another potential concern is that the wiring harness leading to the FIPL sensor may be broken or shorted to ground. Closely inspect the harness where it is routed across the top of the engine to the FIPL sensor. The natural vibration of a diesel engine can easily wear through the wiring insulation where it contacts the engine, brackets, etc.

Note The voltage specification for signal return (item 2, page 2) was incorrect on the original bulletin. Remove original # 186 from your files and replace it with this revised bulletin. # 186A.

Note For testing and adjustment information see following information.

TESTING THE FIPL SENSOR

Note During these tests the negative lead of the voltmeter MUST be connected directly to the negative battery post and the computer and FIPL harnesses must not be disconnected.



1. Wire A is reference voltage sent to the sensor from the computer ORANGE/WHITE

TEST: With the KEY ON, ENGINE OFF voltage should be approximately 5 volts.

2. Wire B is the ground path from the FIPL sensor to the computer BLACK/WHITE

TEST: With the KEY ON, ENGINE OFF voltage should be volts?? or less.

3. Wire C is the throttle opening signal sent to the computer from the FIPL sensor . TEST With the KEY ON, ENGINE OFF and the throttle at idle position, voltage should be approximately 1.2 volts. With The throttle fully open, voltage should be approximately 4.5 volts. ORANGE/WHITE (CENTER WIRE)


The sweep from 1.2 volts at idle to approximately 4.5 volts at full throttle should be smooth. A meter with a snapshot or min/max capture mode is useful to catch intermittent "opens".

If the previously described range cannot be attained, FIPL adjustment can be achieved by rotating the sensor (on its bracket) one way or the other until the voltage values are satisfactory.

 

I had the codes pulled. The codes that are showing up are 26, 23, 14 and 62. Closed throttle is at 1.218 and WOT is 3.66.I tried adjusting the tps WOT to 4.5 but mine will only adjust to 4.4 and then at idle its 1.8. I adjusted it to these numbers to test it and i didnt even get around the block so I set it back to where I had it. I replaced the transmission solenoid and it cured part of the problem. But still won't shift right. . The over drive light only flashes when i am slowing down. I towed the other day about 80 miles it shifted great no problems and then I replaced the battery cable and battery and it has started screwing up again. So I re-adjusted my TPS.And it shifted great till about after 6 miles and it started shifting hard. And the over drive light flashed the whole time. Checked all my connections and everything looked good.The tach doesn't work until its about 800-1000 RPMs and then it jumps up and works fine until you get under these RPM's then it drops to 0. It will only start with your foot on the accelerator and all the glow plugs have been changed. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

 

Its my understanding the tach has to work for the trans to work correctly. I could be wrong. Dave85 would be the e4od guru

 

I am still new to this site?? How do I find the guru Dave85. I am so frustrated with this truck right now! I really don't want to just start changing parts....Any info would be so helpful!! Thanks

 

Yes, you need to get the tach working properly. The tach sensor is beside the engine oil filler neck. It looks like a large hex nut with two wires to it.
Check the condition of the wires at the sensor, look for cracked insulation.
David85 is a member here who is very clued up on transmission problems. Hopefully he will see this thread and give an opinion.

 

"The Guru Dave" I wonder if that will stick?

 

Got your message, birddogs79. Welcome and sorry I'm late

(the rest of you guys spreading lies about me again? LOL)

I'm going with Lazy k on the tach sensor. It also fits with the overdrive light acting up on deceleration since thats when the engine returns to idle.

Code 26 is the transmission oil temperature out of range. The TOT sensor is on the solenoid pack so you might still have a problem there. Often its the electrical connector itself that causes the problem when water, oil (or both) get in and contaminate the contacts. The connector itself is also a retarded design that is prone to breaking if unplugged by someone that doesn't follow the book to the letter. Try the test again with the transmission at operating temperature to see if the code is still there.

Code 23 is the throttle position sensor out of range. You can get a false positive on this if you do not depress the accelerator all the way while running the key on, engine off test. Also be sure the air conditioning (if equipped) is switched off.

Code 14 is engine RPM signal falt - thats your tach problem.

Code 62 is converter clutch slipping. Normally this is very bad and often means the converter is about to die. However given the other issues, they alone could cause this. Its also possible a bad connection at the solenoid pack could cause the converter clutch solenoid to not switch on properly when commanded by the computer (and the computer doesn't like being ignored)

First think to do is pull the sensor for the tachometer on the top front of the engine. Its a big 1" nut with two wires sticking out of it and a quick connect nearby. Sometimes you can get some more life out of it by cleaning off the magnetic pickup probe, but if not - replace it. A new tach sensor is cheaper than a transmission.

 

Well....that just bout covers it lol. This is why I also like 4-5spd manuals. Automatic Trannys are confusing to me.

 

Thanks guys! I am ordering a new tach sensor today. I just don't understand why the stinkin thing worked great for that 80 miles and the tach wasn't working then either I changed the battery and cable and it acts up again.

 

I changed the tach sensor today and the glow plug relay. I found one bad glow plug and replaced it. The truck seems to be shifting properly but when it goes into 4th it seems to be a hard shift. I pulled the codes and i got a code 11 But that hard shift into 4th concerns me. Any opinions?? Thanks for all your help!

 

Great news on the code 11

Where did you leave your TPS settings?

The ballpark seems to be 0.8-1.2V at idle and 3.8-4.5 at WOT. 1V at idle would be a good starting point but be sure to mark the current location of the sensor before changing anything so you can easily revert to the older settings.

 

I have the idle at 1.21 and WOT at 3.66. So far so good no OD light flashing!!!

 

anyone know the part # for the tach sensor?