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Why moddified B-codes?

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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 10:11 PM
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Why moddified B-codes?

I just put in some V-codes up front and need to decide what to do in the rear. I've read about modifing B-codes or even straight B-codes but it seems like the only reason to do it is that they are "better". Can anyone give me a little more detail on what makes them better? I'm just wondering stuff like are they stiffer, do they have a higher load capacity, will it will handle better? Anyone know how much lift over stock the moddified B-codes have? I just want to get this right the first time so I don't have to monkey around with it again.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 11:16 PM
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Changing the rear to B codes will help with carrying capacity, axle wrap and wandering issues. Modifying the B codes only takes a few minutes and will further increase what I mentioned above. Modifying them will add around a 1" of height increase to help level you back out from adding the V code front. Modifying them also gives another 1" of clearance to the bump stops. The ride in the rear remains very soft despite the added load carrying capacity. I am currently towing a trailer with 1300lbs of tongue weight and only have 1.25" of sag with the weight distribution hooked up. It rides great both loaded and unloaded. You may also want to consider adding or if you have one increasing the size of the rear sway bar. Shocks will also help. I like the custom valved Bilsteins from Cary at CTPerformanceinc.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 08:36 AM
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Nice, I'm liking the sound of that. So, B-codes are still a nice ride, but does it feel different? Seems like it must be firmer. I've heard about those Bilsteins and I'll be looking into them. I have the stock sway bar, I need to figure out the difference in size between stock and the slightly larger superduty ones.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 10:06 AM
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I did all my lift work - springs/shocks/hangers/sway at the same time. I would say the V code front with dual shocks is firmer but not at all harsh. I would say the rear is very close to the same - just slightly stiffer. It handles all road conditions very well - much better than stock. It even handles the concrete highways with expansion joints just great. I prefer the ride over the wife's H2 Hummer.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 02:00 PM
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Was the only thing you did in the rear modded b-codes? I don't have the hanger lift so I don't want to jack the rear way up. Though I could get a smaller block if needed I guess.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 02:13 PM
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I added 4.5" icon hangers with v codes in the front. In the back I replaced the 2" block with a 6" block and the mod b codes.

In yours the v codes should have lifted the front about 1.75". Adding the mod b code rear spring should give about 1-1.5" of lift if you keep the factory block.

You can adjust the rear block as desired to change the stance.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 07:03 PM
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Carrying capacity isn't just dependent on just the springs. It's a few more factors than that, three of which I know are 2-wheel drive vs. 4-wheel drive, axle rating, and ring and pinion gearing.

Doing the modified B's will allow you to carry the same weight/load BETTER, because you're adding a couple of the Ex OEM springs to the pack. But it doesn't increase your vehicle weight rating.

One of the main reasons for doing the modified B's is so you don't have to buy the 3.5" tapered blocks. You can keep the OEM flat blocks if you do the modified B's.

Stewart
 
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 08:45 PM
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Thanks for clarifying the load rating stuff. That is what I was thinking, but it wasn't real clear when I typed it out.

Stewart - did you mod yours? How different was the ride? I just want to make sure I know what I'm getting into, I need to tell my wife what to expect.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 08:55 PM
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No, I decided to go with the bigger blocks.

I'm contemplating redoing the suspension in a few years though, and am playing with the idea of going with modified B's AND the bigger blocks, along with W or X codes up front.

Stewart
 
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Old Apr 22, 2011 | 12:36 AM
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The GVWR on the door is just Ford's recommendation for maximum load and is not a legal limit. By fixing the weak links we can make it safer to carry the same load just as Stewart points out. A few other items that come to mind that also effect the ability to safely carry the load is the tire rating, rim rating and the brakes.

The legal implications of all this has been beat to death over on the rvnet forums. Here is a post about what is "legal" RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Actual federal weight law rules, some questions and answers
We all have to make our own decision on what is "safe" since we will never come close to loading up to the legal limit. It would actually be insane to even attempt it.

In my own experiences, I towed the same 9000lb trailer 1100lb tongue weight trailer with my excursion in the stock configuration as well as with my current modifications. In stock configuration I did not feel safe even without the trailer. After the modifications I had much more control over the load. The handling is much better with and without a load. By saying increasing the carrying capacity I am referencing the size of load that I feel safe to haul. With my current trailer (2012 Sabre 32QBTS) I am pushing right up to Ford's recommendation of GVWR and feel confident in the Excursion to be able to handle it safely.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2011 | 11:43 AM
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Excellent clarification post bro. Especially this part: " After the modifications I had much more control over the load. The handling is much better with and without a load. By saying increasing the carrying capacity I am referencing the size of load that I feel safe to haul."

Bar far, that is the single biggest reason I push the spring mod. Safety.

Stewart
 
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