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GPR - 110

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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 05:48 PM
  #1  
iowa 7.3's Avatar
iowa 7.3
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GPR - 110

at NAPA they looked up this as the proper GPR
for my F 350 PS Diesel engine.
is this okay instead of the GPR -109???????
iowa
 
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 06:12 PM
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IIRC the gpr 110 is the more expensive one. The gpr109 is the same except it mounts 90 degrees different. So I would just get the gpr 109.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 06:22 PM
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I went through 3 109's in one year. The first one i broke overtightened. Cheap junk. Myfault. lol. The second and third lasted 6 months. I would get the stancor before i pay for a 110.

I heard the 109's are ok, And people had them forever and ever. But not my experience. Also, You can use the AIH relay infront of GPR as a back up, while you order a stancor.

Welcome to guzzle's Stancor GPR replacement Mod Web Page
586-902 Stancor General Purpose / Industrial Relays
 
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 07:45 PM
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I have a Stancor. I did some research on here and most agree on the Stancor.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 08:22 PM
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i already bought the 110
are the terminals clearly marked
and easy to hook up?
iowa
 
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 06:15 AM
  #6  
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Terminals arn't marked. Easy to hook up.

The big wires go to the big terminals and the small wires go to the small terminals. There isn't a + or a -.

If you have mutliple wires on one terminal. Make sure they stay grouped together.

Also. Light on the nut tightening. I cracked mine overtighening.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 07:10 AM
  #7  
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took a picture of the 110 this am.
see there is an 'I' and 'S' on it.
i haven't looked at the original on my truck,
but take it that these markings should be there also?
thanks for your patience
iowa

 
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 07:17 AM
  #8  
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The one on the truck may or may not be marked the same. Just put your wires on the terminals just like they are on the truck now, if there are two wires on one of the lugs just make sure you keep them the same as mentioned above.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 09:01 AM
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Yup. Just ignore the markings. The two small screw lugs energize the coil which push the contacts shut. The big terminals are the big contacts and direction don't matter with them either.

Easy on the nuts when tightening those wires down or you will be running to Napa again. Use nut drivers if you have them and just snug them up, Dont use the 1/2" drive ratchet
 
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Old Apr 23, 2011 | 05:08 PM
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went right in w/o a clitch
did drop a nut deep into the mid engine area
got it out w/screwdriver and tape on the end of it

the verdict will be determined on the next cold am
without plugging it in!!

iowa

 
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Old Apr 23, 2011 | 05:49 PM
  #11  
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Nice. I dropped the brass part that is inside the fuel pressure regulator down in the valley. Took me an hour to get that sucker out under the hpop reservoir.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2011 | 06:53 AM
  #12  
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well......................................
left my truck unplugged last nite.
it was 32F this morning here in GC, Iowa
turned switch on
waited until the lite and the relay clicked off
and
it STARTED!!!!!

it did put out white smoke while it idled
for a few minutes tho
is there anything else i need to do?

since it will start now
i will keep this diesel truck

thanks for everyone's help
iowa
 
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Old Apr 24, 2011 | 07:10 AM
  #13  
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white smoke at cold idle is normal. its just a little unburned fuel. once things warm up, it all goes away.

Barney
 
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Old Apr 26, 2011 | 08:26 AM
  #14  
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still starting w/o plugging it in!
am very excited!!
big test will be next winter!!
if i were to give advice on this,
the 1st thing i'd try is a new GPR
iowa
 
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Old Apr 26, 2011 | 11:13 AM
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And the second pc of advice is a $65 Stancor. Put it in and forget it for ever !.

Nice job with this !

 
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