Rear leaf spring hanger
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 295
Likes: 1
From: poughkeepsie ny
Just wanted to clear up a few facts about the hangers and such in case anyone's been following this thread.
Turns out all the related leaf spring components (hangers, shackles, bushings) on my '94 B4000 are equivalent to a Ranger of the same year (I was mistaken about the bushing being different comment I made previously). Here's what's what:
Doorman 722-010: Rear (of rear) leaf hanger
Doorman 722-011: Front (of rear) leaf hanger
Duralast/Autozone SK6542: Front (of rear) leaf eyelet bushing
Doorman 722-001: Rear shackle kit. Includes rear (of rear) leaf eyelet bushing
Although the original bushings on mine were a 3 piece setup, as the picture I uploaded earlier shows, the one piece Doorman's mentioned above fit fine (with some help from a ball joint installer). The bolts/nuts that Doorman provides to secure the hangers to the frame are barely adequate, IMO, and strip out pretty easily (the shackle bolts are fine, though). Buy grade 8 bolts to replace these to save yourself headaches. Also, the diameters of the provided bolts for the front hanger are smaller then they probably should be. Larger 1/2" fit perfectly.
Turns out all the related leaf spring components (hangers, shackles, bushings) on my '94 B4000 are equivalent to a Ranger of the same year (I was mistaken about the bushing being different comment I made previously). Here's what's what:
Doorman 722-010: Rear (of rear) leaf hanger
Doorman 722-011: Front (of rear) leaf hanger
Duralast/Autozone SK6542: Front (of rear) leaf eyelet bushing
Doorman 722-001: Rear shackle kit. Includes rear (of rear) leaf eyelet bushing
Although the original bushings on mine were a 3 piece setup, as the picture I uploaded earlier shows, the one piece Doorman's mentioned above fit fine (with some help from a ball joint installer). The bolts/nuts that Doorman provides to secure the hangers to the frame are barely adequate, IMO, and strip out pretty easily (the shackle bolts are fine, though). Buy grade 8 bolts to replace these to save yourself headaches. Also, the diameters of the provided bolts for the front hanger are smaller then they probably should be. Larger 1/2" fit perfectly.
New User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
leaf spring hanger rivet removal
Hello Forum,
Newb here. Sorry to resurrect old thread but I'm in the process of replacing the front leaf spring hanger on passenger side due to son getting t-boned running red light. I have removed the fiberglass step side panel to access the area and ground the heads off the 3 remaining rivets holding the front hanger on (1 rivet was broken in crash). I am having a tough time getting the rivets out. I have tried beating with hammer and punch and gotten slight movement on 1 rivet. Any tricks for removing the rivets? I'm thinking of using a MAPP gas torch on the rivet to see if heat helps.
I have basic urban garage set up, hand tools and hand power tools, no lifts, tractors or air hammers.
Thanks for any suggestions.
This is a great forum, I have used the information many times, this is first post.
Kevin
2000 ranger step-side 3.0L V6 flex
Newb here. Sorry to resurrect old thread but I'm in the process of replacing the front leaf spring hanger on passenger side due to son getting t-boned running red light. I have removed the fiberglass step side panel to access the area and ground the heads off the 3 remaining rivets holding the front hanger on (1 rivet was broken in crash). I am having a tough time getting the rivets out. I have tried beating with hammer and punch and gotten slight movement on 1 rivet. Any tricks for removing the rivets? I'm thinking of using a MAPP gas torch on the rivet to see if heat helps.
I have basic urban garage set up, hand tools and hand power tools, no lifts, tractors or air hammers.
Thanks for any suggestions.
This is a great forum, I have used the information many times, this is first post.
Kevin
2000 ranger step-side 3.0L V6 flex
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 295
Likes: 1
From: poughkeepsie ny
What I did on mine is ground the rivets down to the point I could take the hanger off. I then lightly ground the remaining face of them til they were flush with the frame. At that point I got a punch and knocked it on out with a decent sized hammer. Didn't take much effort.
The rivets on your year truck could be different. In general, I have seen some rivets that are spot (resistance) welded into place before they get pounded down. If that happens to be what's up in your case, just do what I said above (shy of the hammering part), then center punch the stud of the rivet (even though rivet is ground flush to frame you should be able to see the outline of the rivet stud in there). Next, start drilling in increasing bit sizes til you're at the size you will need for the hanger bolts.
Good luck.
The rivets on your year truck could be different. In general, I have seen some rivets that are spot (resistance) welded into place before they get pounded down. If that happens to be what's up in your case, just do what I said above (shy of the hammering part), then center punch the stud of the rivet (even though rivet is ground flush to frame you should be able to see the outline of the rivet stud in there). Next, start drilling in increasing bit sizes til you're at the size you will need for the hanger bolts.
Good luck.
New User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 4
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Thanks, Mr Gull. Did exactly as you described. The badly mauled hanger is now sitting on the work bench. I ordered the Dorman 722-011 from O'Reilly this afternoon. Should be working my way back out this week if it doesn't get too cold.
I appreciate the advice.
Kevin
I appreciate the advice.
Kevin
SPONSOR
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 711
Likes: 6
From: Souderton
If your ever confused about parts and can't find what your looking for give us a call or send me a message. We sell all suspensions for all light duty and heavy duty trucks. Plus we don't outsource our parts from China like Dorman.
-Junior
-Junior
New User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
The Dorman 722-011 absolutely did not fit. The horizontal bolt spacing between the top bolts on the Dorman hanger is 9 5/8 ". The horizontal spacing between both the top and bottom pairs of holes on my frame is 6". The vertical spacing between the pairs of holes on my frame is 3 5/8" in the front pair and 4" on the rear pair.
Any suggestions on the correct part and where to purchase?
Thanks,
Kevin
Any suggestions on the correct part and where to purchase?
Thanks,
Kevin
SPONSOR
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 711
Likes: 6
From: Souderton
The Dorman 722-011 absolutely did not fit. The horizontal bolt spacing between the top bolts on the Dorman hanger is 9 5/8 ". The horizontal spacing between both the top and bottom pairs of holes on my frame is 6". The vertical spacing between the pairs of holes on my frame is 3 5/8" in the front pair and 4" on the rear pair.
Any suggestions on the correct part and where to purchase?
Thanks,
Kevin
Any suggestions on the correct part and where to purchase?
Thanks,
Kevin
New User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
ATS Springs worked perfectly in my truck. Excellent quality.
Fwiw, my photos are at ( B4000 1997: Rear springs replaced - Imgur ) <== CLICK
Fwiw, my photos are at ( B4000 1997: Rear springs replaced - Imgur ) <== CLICK
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SPONSOR
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 711
Likes: 6
From: Souderton
Give me a call and we can take care of this for you. I have the parts you need in stock, just need to know if you want one side, both sides and if you want new grade 8 bolts with everything.
1-888-943-8287 and ask for me, Junior.
Looking forward to hearing from you!
-Junior
1-888-943-8287 and ask for me, Junior.
Looking forward to hearing from you!
-Junior
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