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Hi. I'm finally to the point building my 1970 4x4 that I need to fit the bed on the frame. While trying the get the rear holes to line up with the frame holes I didn't notice the tool box hitting the spring hanger and since it was crooked because of that the bed put a new dent in the cab. Oh well! Just caused myself more work. I just read this thread (https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...-the-side.html) And number dummy says the 67-72 long bed box has the same part number for both 2 and 4 wheel drive. Has anyone had this problem? Do I have to modify the box? I sure am glad I have this forum to go to for problems like this.
1967/72 F100/250 8' Styleside uses the same tool compartment, 2WD/4WD makes no difference. 6 1/2' Styleside short bed version was not available for 1967/72.
Hi. I'm finally to the point building my 1970 4x4 that I need to fit the bed on the frame. While trying the get the rear holes to line up with the frame holes I didn't notice the tool box hitting the spring hanger and since it was crooked because of that the bed put a new dent in the cab. Oh well! Just caused myself more work. I just read this thread (https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...-the-side.html) And number dummy says the 67-72 long bed box has the same part number for both 2 and 4 wheel drive. Has anyone had this problem? Do I have to modify the box? I sure am glad I have this forum to go to for problems like this.
I had to cut a 3x4" hole in the box for the spring eye bolt plus use a BFHammer dented it in some then make a sheet metal door an some self tapping screws to hold it plus added a thin coat of seam sealer to keep any water out. Drill a few air vent holes then covered the holes with screen to keep out the bugs,
Paint the inside with silver Por15 and added rubber to keep it from getting scratched
Thank you Bill and thanks Rich. I wonder why we have to modify our boxes. It seems like there's only one choice. I'll attach some pics to show what I've got. Maybe someone has more info.
Yep same as mine. notice the little square patch in the left of my first pic.
I'd say these 4wd never came with a tool box orich
You could be right Rich. Ford does not specify 4X2. But you could be right. Ford would not have considered someone with a 4X4 buying the replacement part if 4X4's didn't come with one. Here is how the compartment itself is listed:
67/72 F100/250-131" W.B., body style 99 (styleside), before ser # N40,001, Less door, part number C7TZ9946100A.
72 F100/250-131" W.B., body style 99, after ser # N40,001, Less door, part number D2TZ9946100B.
*
Note: C7TZ9946100A had been replaced by D2TZ9946100B, D2TZ9946136A door latch striker plate, and D2TZ9946178C support.
You could be right Rich. Ford does not specify 4X2. But you could be right. Ford would not have considered someone with a 4X4 buying the replacement part if 4X4's didn't come with one. Here is how the compartment itself is listed:
67/72 F100/250-131" W.B., body style 99 (styleside), before ser # N40,001, Less door, part number C7TZ9946100A.
67/72 F100/250-131" W.B., body style 99, after ser # N40,001, Less door, part number D2TZ9946100B.
*
Note: C7TZ9946100A had been replaced by D2TZ9946100B, D2TZ9946136A door latch striker plate, and D2TZ9946178C support.
"Who goofed, I've got to know!" -Howard Cosell on MNF
If the parts catalog does not specify 2WD or 4WD, the part fits both. So, in the case, the tool compartment fits 1967/72 F100/250 2WD & 4WD with 131" wheelbase.
In 79 when, I found a bed an replaced mine with the Ranger bed with tool box.
I thought what in the hell was keeping from lining up, then looked under at the spring eye bolt that was in the way when, I had to drive 50 miles with only a few bolts to hole it on, I also used some rope and tied it down to keep it from shifting any. .
Slid it back some and took aim an nailed it a number of time until the bolts lined up.
But if it was to be also used on a 4wd then, I'd think it would may be have it concaved with a rubber plug that could be removed to remove the spring bolt instead me having to cut an opening?
Orich
The D2TZ9946100B only fit 1972 Bumps as originally listed.
Same 1967/72 right quarter panel, so "one size fits all."
Dealers would install whatever tool compartment they had in stock, so I cannot imagine dealers ordering a D2TZ kit if they had a C7TZ kit and vice versa.
Back then, Ford sent dealers accessories whether they ordered them or not and they could not be returned for credit.
I bought a complete NOS 289 Weber setup at a dealer in Redding CA .. Manifold, carburetors, linkage, the whole shebang. 100 bucks!
In 79 when, I found a bed an replaced mine with the Ranger bed with tool box.
I thought what in the hell was keeping from lining up, then looked under at the spring eye bolt that was in the way when, I had to drive 50 miles with only a few bolts to hole it on, I also used some rope and tied it down to keep it from shifting any. .
Slid it back some and took aim an nailed it a number of time until the bolts lined up.
But if it was to be also used on a 4wd then, I'd think it would may be have it concaved with a rubber plug that could be removed to remove the spring bolt instead me having to cut an opening?
Orich
Thanks to all for the discussion. This really helps.
Orich. I'm glad you clarified what happened in your case with the above quote. I was thinking of just deforming the box a little instead of making a patch. I think if I need to remove the spring eye bolt i'll remove the box to get to it. I just put new springs in it and hopefully I won't need to get to that bolt again.
Thanks to all for the discussion. This really helps.
Orich. I'm glad you clarified what happened in your case with the above quote. I was thinking of just deforming the box a little instead of making a patch. I think if I need to remove the spring eye bolt i'll remove the box to get to it. I just put new springs in it and hopefully I won't need to get to that bolt again.
Can you cut out a rectangular or oval section there, reverse it, then re-attach? Making it an "innie" rather than an "outie".
Can you cut out a rectangular or oval section there, reverse it, then re-attach? Making it an "innie" rather than an "outie".
I hadn't thought of that. That's some good creative thinking Jeff. I'm still thinking of just deforming it (AKA dent). It only needs about an inch.
I've welded galvanized lots of times. Just have to make sure not to breathe the fumes. I think they sell a spray can of galvanizing to try to stop the rust.
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