The rear hanger (not the rear-most shackle) on the driver's side bit the dust and riding on the bed now. I picked up a replacement at Autozone, but it's about 30% smaller in size than the existing one that was on there and, in addition, I can't get any of the bolt holes to match up to existing ones on the frame in that section. The part number Doorman 722010 appears correct (according to other part stores I checked and threads I searched on this site).

Am I missing something, or am I supposed to drill holes to get this thing to fit?

While I'm here, am I correct in assuming that removing the bed would be easier than dropping the gas tank to gain access to the inner frame rail?

'94 Mazda B4000

 

The replacement spring mount should be an exact match for what you have on the truck. So it shouldn't require any drilling of new holes. Try to make sure with the store that the part has not been mis-marked or that it's for a different version of your truck, like a standard cab verses an extended cab. Could also be a difference in production model year and if it is an early 94 or late 94. You might try going to a Mazda dealer parts department and see if they can order the part you need or if they can identify the part you got from AZ. Since you asked about frame access close to the gas tank, see if the part you got from AZ might be the rear spring mount, the one closer to the rear bumper. That one is usually smaller than the front mount. And yes, it should be easier to get at all the mounts with the bed off, once you get the truck supported with jack stands. You may run into a lot of rusty bolt issues with the bed bolts though. Soak them down good with your favorite rusty bolt spray and let it soak for a while. If you need to cut the bolts just replace them with grade 8 bolts of the same length and some self locking nuts. It still might be cramped between the frame rail and gas tank but you will have the advantage of being able to see what you're working on and getting to it from above plus you won't have all the rust and dirt falling in your face all the time. You should be able to cut the rivet heads with a good sharp chisel or grind them off, and punch out the remainder in the frame. Again, use grade 8 bolts and self locking nuts to mount the new parts. Let us know how it goes.

 

if you are talking about the front hanger for the rear leafsprings you have the wrong part. the gas tank is behind the front hanger? the part you have is the hanger for the rear of the rear leafsprigns the one closer to the bumper...rockauto lists dorman 722-011 as the part you need for a ranger but does not list it for the mazda my guess it is still the correct one.................

 

In many cases Removing the Bed Helps in the aiding of repairs. ie. Fuel pump replacement, hanger and shackle replacement, etc

1)the fuel cap filler is held on with 3 bolts 7mm?

2)there is an electrical disconnect at the bumper for the taillights.

3)The bed is held on with 6 torx 55 bolts. 2 of the bolts closest to the cab are longer than the other 4. I recommend buying 2 torx 55 sockets in case one breaks. 4 or 5 of the bolts can be accessed from underneath and should be hit with a rust penetrator. I recommend at least one of the following, impact wrench, 1/2 ratchet with a pipe or a 1/2 breaker bar. it takes some muscle to remove the bolts.

4)The bed can be slid down for a fuel pump replacement or removed by 2 Men or one man and a cherry picker.

5) In the event you are removing the bed for a fuel pump replacement. MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT THE NEG BATTERY TERMINAL.

6) You should change your fuel filter while the bed is off. A special tool is required. 5/16 FF performance tool W83130 or equivalent. hit the lines with pb blaster first.

7) I replaced my bolts with regular hex bolts. Ford wanted $16 a bolt. I ordered my online at the the boltdepot.com for less than $3 each. the 2 cloest to the cab are 12m x 1.75 x 120mm and the other 4 are 12m x 1.75 x 100mm. I got the storngest grade they had 10.9=for automotive use

8) I changed the rear hangers and shackles on my rear leaf springs. I used Dorman 722-010 and 722-001. all 4 pieces were less than $100. They come in a kit with everything you need, bolts etc. I used a grinder to grind the heads of the bolts off. this only took about 10 minutes a hanger. I had a dewault grinder and bought 2 metal grinding wheels at the home depot. I only used 1 they were about $3. I had a hard time getting the bushing out of the eye of the spring. I finally decided to use my drill and a good 1/4 bit. I drilled the rubber out that was in the middle of the bushing. the rest just slide out. I greased up the new bushing and temporarily put the bolt in and hammered it in the eye. You don't want to torque the bolts that attach the spring to the shackle until the truck is on the ground.

 

Here's what I bet is going on. Till 92 or 93, mazda trucks were actually built by mazda. In 93 or 94, mazda started selling rangers with mazda badges on them.
I'm betting the part they sold you is for the older mazda built truck, rather than the newer ford built version. Go back and have them cross reference the part with a 94 ranger. I'll bet it's a different part number......

 

that's not it ......he bought the hanger for the rear of the rear leafspring and he needs to replace the front hanger that is up by the gas tank.......He bought the wrong part.....they changed the design of the that front hanger I think in 98 because it was rusting out?

 

Thanks for all the great input, guys.

The part I got has 722-010 printed right on it, so it's definitely legit. It also looks nothing like one that's rear of the rear leaf spring (closest to the rear bumper), powersmoked. The gas tank is on the opposing side of the frame rail where that hanger attaches. It's too tight there to get my hand in there to attach corresponding nuts, so that's why the bed's gotta come off. I'm tempted to weld the brackets on to avoid that, but have some reservations about doing that.

I actually did happen to check RockAuto (right after my post) using a Ford Ranger of the same year and saw those 2 different part numbers listed. From the pic, 722-011 does look more like the one that's on there. I ordered it from Advanced Auto and it should be in tomorrow so I'll know for sure then and report back.

I grinded (and grinded) off the rivets already this morning, and I'll work on getting the Torx bolts off next. Thanks for the step by step on the bed removal, powersmoked.

 

make sure you have a couple of good 1/4 drill bits.........if you have a hard time getting the bushing from the eye of the spring just drill all the rubber out and the rest will fall out, grease up the new one and slide it in.dont tighten the bolt for the spring eye all then way until the truck is on the ground

 

ive done all 4 of my spring hangers, for the rear i used a torch and didnt pull the bed, for the fronts, i pulled the bed and used a air cheisel/punch. also ended up having to put a new fuel pump in, line on the pickup assy were so rusty that when it got bumped it broke, i was leaking more fuel that the engine was useing. i used a tractor with forks on the loader bucket to pull the bed, hardest part was getting the bed bolts out, had a braker bar with a pipe on it, 1/4 turn at a time. used anti-seize when i put it back together. also i used spray bedline on the new brackets before i installed them.

 

1990/2011 Ranger // Some of these parts also fit 1983/89 Rangers, some do not // I have no Mazda parts catalog or a cross reference catalog from Ford to Mazda part numbers.

4L5Z-5775-AA (replaced E3TZ-5775-B) .. Rear of Rear Spring Hanger Bracket / 1990/2011 Ranger / Available from Ford.

MSRP: $30.78 // PARTSGUYED.COM price: $23.64.
-------------------------------------------------
F57Z-5775-A (replaced E3TZ-5775-A) .. Front of Rear Spring Hanger Bracket / 1990/97 Ranger / Available from Ford.

MSRP: $37.78 // PARTSGUYED.COM price: $29.02.
------------------------------------------------
6L5Z-5775-A (replaced YL5Z-5775-AA) .. Front of Rear Spring Hanger Bracket / 1998/2011 Ranger / Available from Ford.

MSRP: $86.00 // PARTSGUYED.COM price: $66.05.

Rusting out has nothing/everything to do with it, cuz if these hangers didn't rust out, how many do you think Ford would sell? Prolly a coupla 100 per year, if that, instead of the 1000's they do sell.

Spring hangers have been an all time fav-or-ite seller for FoMoCo for decades. F Series truck hangers are notorious for rusting out, and Ford only changed the part number when the design changed.

Automakers are really in the partsbiz, where over 80% of their profits come from. If parts didn't wear or rust out = no profit for automakers.

 

Nothing to see here

 

Well, that other bracket does match up after all. I ordered the another one for the other side as soon as I checked the fit.

Although the bed bolts came out rather smoothly, I had a bitch of a time getting the bolt that goes through the bushing (on what was left of the hanger). After cutting, torching, and more cutting it's out (in pieces), but now I've got to get another. I imagine it's called a leaf spring bushing? I looked on Autozone, using a 94 Ranger as the vehicle, and I got a hit on it (part # SK6542), but from the pic they show, it looks different from what I've got. Maybe it's just a generic photo. Here's a pic of mine.

Basically 2 bushings on either side of the "eye" and a sleeve that fits in between 'em. The bolt slides through the sleeve to secure it to the hanger.

While working in there, I noticed the shackles are hanging on by a thread as well. Might as well order those 2 (plus bushings to go with) while everything's apart.

Like yours, racsan, my pump pickup lines aren't looking very happy either. No leaks visible. I've got enough stuff on my plate right now, so thinking I'm gonna let that slide 4 now.

Continued thanks ya'll been offering.

 

dont bump the rusty lines, i did and thats when the leak occured. on your bushing there is a small diameter tube (that you have pictured) where the bolt goes through, its surrounded by rubber and has another thin metal sleeve encasing it (that part slides in the spring eye) make sure you dont still have that outer casing inside the spring eye, clean everything real good, use some anti-sieze as lubricant, a long bolt with big washers on both ends and use a nut to draw the bushing into the eye. i had to use the torch on all of my bushings to remove them. i tired to post a pic of that but im having computer issues, copies but wont paste. #@*&!

 

racsan, what you see is what you get. What's pictured is all that came out of the eye (sans the bolt n nut).

Here's a pic of the one Autzone lists for a '94 Ranger:

See, it's different.

After some searching, I figured it out. Although the hanger for '94 Ranger is what ended up fitting my truck, the bushing style is that of a Mazda B4000 of same year. Go figure. Autozone confirms it. It lists a couple of Energy Suspension aftermarket polyurethane kits, which style matches what I've got. Here's a pic:

The poly kits aren't cheap and will probably take a while to come in on special order. I'm gonna hit a local parts store in the morning, and then the dealer if I can't get anything there.

 

o.k. that is odd. just wanted you to be aware of what i came across when i did mine.