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Question: how do i fix the switch for two gas tank reader?
Situation: I filled the rear gas tank of my E250 ford van. It was $25.00 worth of gas. the sensor/gauge worked fine. Until i decided to test the front tank and pulled the switch and it showed empty. Then i switched back to rear tank only the gauge/sensor failed to work!
sounds like the switch itself may be bad, or the gage may be failing. do your other gages still work? if they all died at the same time, it could be a problem with the IVR (instrument voltage regulator) which is mounted to the back of the instrument cluster.
sounds like the switch itself may be bad, or the gage may be failing. do your other gages still work? if they all died at the same time, it could be a problem with the IVR (instrument voltage regulator) which is mounted to the back of the instrument cluster.
Thank you for the feedback. I checked the switch while my wife moved the switch. It clicks each time she made the switch so I think the switch is good.
Other gauges ARE in operation such as temperature of the vehicle.
Should I: 1) try to replace the gauge on the dashboard?
2) replace BOTH sensor/sender in both gas tanks?
you might start be testing the gage, with the instrument cluster unplugged from the vehicle, use test leads to connect one post of the gage to a battery, then connect the other side of the gage through a test light to the other side of the battery, you should have a reading on the gage. if you don't, skip the test light. if you still don't, gage is bad.
because both tanks seem to have gone bad at the same time, i find it unlikely that the senders both went bad at the same time. if the gage tests good, study the wiring, you'll likely find a problem there
Its against my logic to say both failed at the same time, try sticking a probe into one of the sender wires as close to the tank as possible, connect your probe to one side of a test light and ground three other side of the test light, if you get a gage reading, your sender is the problem, but I expect you won't get a reading, in which case move closer to the gage and repeat this test until you do get a reading
Its against my logic to say both failed at the same time, try sticking a probe into one of the sender wires as close to the tank as possible, connect your probe to one side of a test light and ground three other side of the test light, if you get a gage reading, your sender is the problem, but I expect you won't get a reading, in which case move closer to the gage and repeat this test until you do get a reading
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