Dumb question, but can I use lowering blocks on my truck? I already have the lowering shackles....If I cant use the blocks, I'll have to get the hangers....

-Wes

 

Weld them together...

 

Ok so in my defense, and that of many others...

You can see in your first post you failed to mention what kind of blocks, you just said blocks. I was visualizing two 3 or 4 inch blocks stacked on top of one another.

But again, I don't like any blocks at all and this is from personal experience and knowledge gained from friends. I have just seen too many failures due to failures associated with aftermarket lift blocks.

And I still think your going to have axle wrap, wheel hop, and possibly broken axles, springs or u-joints.

 

See i just dont see this happening though... its only raised less than 2 in over stock, using factory ford parts, the truck only made 185 hp new..much less now, it has 33in swampers on it, and i dont do "hole shots" in a lifted long bed automatic truck, that kinda stuff is reserved for my race car... and the truck is only driven maybe 50 miles a month...i hate filling the tank on something that only gets 11 mpg....this is just my occasional off roader and **** hauler...

 

You know that "pate with a arm coming off it for the bumpstop" you are talking about? THAT IS A FACTORY LIFT BLOCK!!!!

If I remember right, the stock blocks of this era pickup (1/2 and 3/4 ton) is about a 2 inch block, two of them together woulkd make about 4 inches of course, witch isn't bad at all, in fact, a lot of FACTORY installed blocks are 4 inches tall. Ever look under a dodge? I think some of them are 6 inches.

But, back to the issue, 4 inches total, isn't a big deal at all, that's what I'm running in my 94. Just one not stacked. Haven't had a issue with that. I also have two stacked factory 2 inch blocks in my wheeler, but they are welded together(a special procedure as they are cast).


Needless to say, whether you call it a "plate" or a "block" if its between the axle and the spring, its a type of lift block, factory or not. Ford put blocks in the 4x4 pickups so they only needed one set of springs for a pickup 4x4 or 4x2. 4x4s got the blocks. Simple as that. Brad knows what he is talkin about.

 

Thanks you

 

My point is, mine has Ujoints running THROUGH the plate. It is NOT 2 inches. It IS 1 3/8. It CANNOT kick out. If you want to call it a block, GO AHEAD.
I agree, Brad knows what he's talking about but my truck is not his truck and I know what my truck has. Which is why I asked Brad, with his infinite wisdom, if he thought maybe my super uber tall liftblock was possibly aftermarket or a fabrication.

His orginal post said "two blocks stacked" leaving it wide open for assumption.

So if you want to jump on a bandwagon and insinuate I don't know what I'm talking about, go right ahead, but I'm not the only one who said stacking blocks is not a good idea.

 

Let me say something here,

Most if not all of the problems associated with lift blocks, stacked or not, can be followed back to improper sized, loose, or u bolts that didn't get retorqued. Axle wrap/wheel hop can be just as bad on a rig without blocks as with them, and if that is a issue, a traction/ladder bar should be added.

I have personally ran a 4 inch block under the factory 3 inch block for 7 or so years in a vehicle pushin big tires, and a lot of abuse. Never once did I have a ubolt fail, or a block spit out. Mainly because I checked over evereything all the time to make sure it wasn't loose. I also had a massive traction bar to keep axle wrap under control.



As for the block on ur pickup, ya, the u bolt might go through it, but its still a block/spacer/plate, whatever you want to call it.


Now that we all know he is talking about only 4 inches of block, I'm going to say, I think it will be fine if he takes proper precautions. If anyone says any different, show me where a block failed that was installed proper, had proper traction control, and proper sized u bolts.


I guess now is a good time to mention upgrading the size of u bolts when adding a taller block is always a good idea.

 

You said it exactly right, when done correctly. I don't recall him mentioning traction control either so....

At any rate, I'm done here.

 

Using lift blocks is like doing a body lift , if its done right they will work , but the higher you go the more problems you will have JMO...

 

....You can't use lowering blocks unless you do an axle flip kit , that will lower the back 5 in , if you use the hangers with the shackels you have it will lower it another 2 in .....

 

I think it best if you just assume everyone on this list will do things properly and not jackleg it. If you think the other way, that you are the only one that can do it right and everyone else is an idiot, the only advise you are going to give out is "don't".

 

Well tell me something Lew;

If I already have the 2" lowering shackles, and I get the Hangers, the axle flip kit, etc...Thats good for 7" of drop, correct? How much lower will the blocks make it?

Thanks man

-Wes

 

Depending on the size of the block , 2 in block 2in drop , i have never seen a truck with a flip kit and hangers and shackles , that would make it very low , 9 in drop then your going to run out of suspension room , then you would need to c notch the frame

 

BINGO!.....If I CAN get the 9'' of drop, given I do a mild C-Notch, then what do I do about the front? 3" Drop Beams, and 2" Lowering coils can only go so far...

Is there drop spindles too? if so, I think that should even the playing field up a smidge...

-Wes