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Old Apr 11, 2011 | 08:48 PM
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eng swap

I picked up a replacement eng for my truck 94 idi e4od 4x4 estcab I was wondering if I can grt the eng out if I leave the exhaust manifolds in truck just unbolt from the heads and if there are other isuse with this swap its a 93 7.3 eng off of a standerd trans. Any info would be apprecated Thanks
 
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Old Apr 11, 2011 | 09:29 PM
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I don't see why you couldn't...
Do the studs on the manifolds look like they'll break?
You might have a fun time trying to get in there to loosen the bolts, but if you pull the inner fender, you should have plenty of clearance.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2011 | 11:24 PM
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1994F2507.3L
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i have to ask why do you want to leave the manifolds? just unbolt the exhaust pipe ( i think its only 2 bolts) trying to remove all the bolts/studs whatever.. from the engine with it in the truck is going to be an unnecessary PITA they've been on there nearly 20 years they aint gonna come without a fight.....
 
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Old Apr 11, 2011 | 11:36 PM
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The reason I ask is the eng I bought the studs broke when they tryed to take them off so I thought that I might leave them on the exhaust and take the manifolds off It was just a thought cause I havent realy looked at it yet wont realy look till wedsday I am all about the easyest way LOL
 
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Old Apr 11, 2011 | 11:47 PM
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there is very very little room down by the manifolds.... much easier just to unhook the pipe from the manifolds and remove the manifolds when its out of the truck and you can get a impact to them.remember this is the biggest engine (besides the 7.5) you can get in these trucks there's not much room lol especially compared to the 302 they put in a few 3/4 tons lol
 
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 10:04 AM
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I pulled two 7.3's and itd be much easier to unbolt the exhaust flanges than trying to take the manifold off. Save yourself the aggrivation. Once you pull the motor you can spray lotsa PB blaster on the bolts
 
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 11:17 AM
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I've had manifold studs break off many times, so I understand why you don't want to touch those bolts.
Usually we end up drilling out the broken stud, and then doing a bolt and nut setup instead of a stud.

I think you'll have better luck just snapping the studs off and pulling the engine. Then with the engine out, you can hit the manifold bolts with PB Blaster and carefully get them out without breaking one.
Then you'll be able to drill the manifolds out conveniently on the workbench, or bring it to a machine shop where they could drill it out and put another stud in there.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 07:15 PM
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Hey thanks it was just a thought . Will be starting on it next week probly change rear maine seal before I put eng in looks like its on a plate that unbolts do I need a speacil press for this?
 
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 10:43 PM
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I don't know about the Rear Main, you may want to start a new thread for that.
Start soaking everything with PB Blaster NOW!
 
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 10:58 PM
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Take that plate off, you will need the plate gasket, pull the old seal out of it, tap the new one in the new seal should come with a plastic sleeve to put over the crank so the seal slides on correctly, and it may also tell you not to oil the new seal if its the fel-pro like i got
 
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Old Apr 13, 2011 | 03:21 AM
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I think that you would find the oil cooler will hit on the manifold. Drop the y-pipe, and pull it with the manifolds on.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2011 | 11:44 AM
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Thanks guys much appreceate to info will post on how it goes and if I got the shaft on the eng hopefully not and it all works well the truck will be fore sale wen done
 
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Old Apr 13, 2011 | 08:44 PM
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Where abouts are ya? I enjoy beating on IDI's and making money in the process
 
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Old Apr 13, 2011 | 08:56 PM
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you dont need anythingspecial for the rear main seal. its a ew bolts. I replaced mine with the engine out witha one piece seal
 
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