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No way in hell id cut the gears like that that's just asking for trouble... it the ring is in the way then mark the ring position on the carrier (not that it should matter but best to be safe than sorry) and pop the 10 or so bolts and drive the pin out
I just didn't want to screw with any ring/pinion alignment, so as long as I put it all back the same as how it was in there, I should be good then?
Yea the only thang you 'align' is how many shims are behind the bearings on the carrier sliding it side to side and on the pinion sliding it up and down
Managed to get it all apart and swap in the new clutch pack. Problem I am having now is I can't get the washers to go in with the spider gears (the ones that go between the two gears that hold the clutches) I got it to go together with a wooden dowel, but still can't get the washers in.
Any pointers, or "Crap I should have thought of that" ideas for how to put it back together?
I cant believe Randys would have that picture in their "tips" section. I really thought the guy was better than that.
I dont have any pointers for getting the clutch packs back together. In the past Ive just fiddled with it until it fell into place.
The coolest trick Ive seen for putting a 44ttb center chunk back in is use some short pieces of all thread as studs to help line it up and hold it in place while you get the bolts in. - Thanks Dave.
wow, that is pretty effed up tech right there, granted that side of the gear isn't really engaging the pinion, but that has to take strength away from the ring gear. goofy.
So I figured out how to get the spherical washers in behind the pinion mate gears. Seems there is a $120 tool to compress the clutch pack and Belleville plates to allow enough slack in the pinion mate gears to slide the washers behind them.
I wish I would have taken a picture of it in action, but what I did was use a grade 8 bolt with two large washers and two nuts to compress the assembly enough to slide the washers in.
I have have seen and a heard of this being done on several occasions. I would have to agree it is pretty scary looking no doubt. But, I know of at least two axles that were recently built by a friend of mine (who is extremely knowledgeable and experienced with setting up gears) that had to have the ring gear clearanced for the cross pin. Both of which were c-clip type axles that he installed lunch box lockers in, in this case it was the only option. Typically when we need to do this, we'll rotate the ring gear around until it lines up with a spot to which you have to clearance as few teeth as possible. More often that not once the gears are set up properly, with the use of of marking paint we have noticed that the area that was ground down isn't even in the path of the pinion. It's still a good idea to deburr the area once the needed amount of material is removed. I know all you guys will probably think I'm crazy for saying this, but this practice is more common than you might think.
John
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