First off I have been lurking here for a while and cant begin to show my appreciation for all the knowledge you guys have shared!

I have been using the search to trouble shoot a no start issue and here is where I am at.

Truck is 99 7.3 with 222k. For the last couple months it has had what I read described as the "hiccup" while running. A couple of times it died but restarted instantly. The CPS was replaced at around 100k miles so I was thinking that probably needed to be replaced.

Monday morning it started up fine, ran for ~30 seconds and died. Wouldnt restart.

I replaced CPS. Wouldnt start.

After some poking around I found that with the key off the GPR has 12.5V from the battery, 0V on all 3 other posts.
With key on, I didnt here a click and Battery post still shows 12.5V, the other big post has 0V, and the 2 little posts both have 1.22V.
I thought that from what I read on here that the lack of voltage drop and the lack of power to the other big post meant that the GPR was probably bad.

So I just replaced the GPR with the Napa GRP-109. And I still show the same readings. I also do not hear a click when the key is turned on.

Also the Wait to Start light does not come on at all.

The GRP-109 has the posts oriented in a different direction than the factory GPR. I connected the wires based on the orientation of the extruded plastic "dividers" on the top of the GPR. I assume that this would be correct?

Other details:

Does not appear to have any smoke coming out while cranking.
Both Batteries are about 6 months old and show 12.5V.


I am going to check the HPOP level and fuel filter, but it doesnt seem like the GPR is right so I am looking for advise about what else to be checking.

Thanks for any help!

 

If you are getting no wait to start light the fuel bowl heater probably shorted and took out the fuse. Check fuse #30. If that's burnt unplug fuel heater at back side of fuel bowl then replace fuse.

 

#30 fuse was burnt.

Thanks!

I will unplug fuel bowl heater and replace and see where I am at.

 

That's good. Glad to help and I forgot to say welcome to the site. It should start up now because the fuse #30 also provides power to the pcm. Just leave the heater unplugged and tie wrap it to something to avoid possible short. Diesel O Rings in my signature has a replacement for a good price if you want to replace it. That connection also has the wire for water in fuel sensor so that is another thing to consider if you leave it disabled.

 

That was it, Thanks TDPower!!!!!!!

This site is so cool!

 

Good deal! I bet you GPR started to work as well. Hopefully the intermittent dieing problems was the CPS that you replaced. Was it an original black one? What kind did you replace it with? Most people carry a spare cps and tools to replace. I carry two CPS's, you never know with those things.

 

It was one of the black cps. I replaced it with a grey BWD part#css1603. I am guessing that this one is probably not the greatest, but it was all I could find in stock and I needed to get the truck going.

I was planning on ordering one (maybe 2) of the black ones from Diesel O Rings. (along with some hpop 0-rings and maybe the fuel bowl rebuild kit for fun)

I thought that I would install the black one when it comes and keep the BWD as a spare.

Is there a way to test the GPR that I removed? I thought that I might leave it in the truck as a spare too. Either that or I might order the stancor GPR and keep the napa one as a spare.

 

I'm sure you could test the GPR out of the truck. The two small terminals are pcm ground and vpwr. If you were not having problems with cold starts it's probably ok.

Sounds like you have been lurking long enough to know the original cps are probably the best unless they die. I know Bob has a limited supply of them so stock up if money allows. If you have never had the recall done you could put back the original black cps and get the recall done and keep that as a spare.

 

So everything worked great for a couple of days and now the truck is dying, but it will restart immediately. It died about 8 times on the last 3 miles of my trip home tonight. Dying at idle. Easily restarted each time. On the second to last time that it died the SES light came on. It ran a little farther then died again. When it restarted there was no SES light on.

It hesitates just a little and the rpms drop a little, try to come back up then it dies.

I dont have anyway to check to see what code is coming up, without taking it to a shop. Is that something, I am going to need to pay to have done?

I changed the oil friday after I got it running again last time.

I have not changed/checked the fuel filter (it is probably due) so that is coming up in the morning.

The other thing that I did not do is put dialectic grease on the CPS when I replaced it. I thought that I would do that as well. It is VERY wet here today so I wondered about moisture. Also a little suspect of the O'reilly's CPS, but the rpm drop and slight hesitation makes me think fuel rather than electrical.

Am I on the right track? Any other easy things that I should be checking off?


*Edit: Forgot to add I put fuel in about 25 miles before issues started.

Thanks!

 

Well, I opened up the fuel bowl to change the filter and ..... EEEWWWWWW!

Filter was really dirty and there was a fair amount of sediment in the bottom of the bowl. Got it all cleaned up and new filter in.

Went ahead and greased the CPS with dialectic for good measure.

Started up and ran very smooth. Drove it around some and has not died yet.

We will see if that does it or not.