First i would like to say Happy Thanksgiving to all on FTE ! I am so thankful for finding this site and VERY thankful for the friendship and knowledge we all share with one another. Lets get down to business before i go into my food coma for the night !

So whats the life span on a GPR ? I bought one from napa (part # GPR-109) last dec. This morning my EOT said 38* when i cycled the key on. WTS light went out and i waited another 30 or 40sec. No start and lots of white out the pipe. So i switched a PID on my edge monitor to batt voltage and cycled it on again. it read 11.8v for roughly 40 sec then no start again. 3rd time fired right up. Figured if the GPR was working the volts would drop lower than 11.8

Heres the kicker...... So yesterday i installed a GPR LED indicator light. Based on the instructions given from a post a few months back. Took the 13mm nut off the post on the right if looking in and attached my hot wire to my light on this pole. Didn't touch the other wires just removed the nut and placed the connector on the top of the others and reinstalled the nut. Ran it to my light with a round fuse and connected it. Got a good ground under the steering wheel. Got it all wired up and cycled the key on and no light.
The light i picked up at raido shaq might not be correct. I just grabbed what i thought would work as i was in there unplanned and said hey since I'm here i will get a light to do the mod. Its a 5mm red led with a black and red wire coming out of it.

So with the key on and no light i took my tester and tested the GPR. Got 12+v on the hot side "left" and 12+ on the right pole with KOEO. Ummmm So i went and checked the light again. Cycled key off, wait....... cycled back on and the light flashed one time then went out. Left key on and tested the relay 12+v on the left "hot side" and 12+ on the right " side to GP's. So i sat there watching the volts on the side going to the GPs and after a few sec i herd the GPR CLICK then 0v to the GP's. So to my knowledge the GPR was working so I'm thinking i got the wrong light...... ?????????? I will be going back to get the correct one now that i have the part #.

So this morning no start and no blink of the light, no drop in volts when key cycled on. So my guess is the GPR went out. I will be testing it in the morning to verify but if its bad why would the thing take a crap in just less or right at a year ? Dosent make sense to me thought it should last longer than that. Could something be wrong in my connections ? Wrong light, wrong fuse or bad ground cause this. It seemed to be fine, no hard starts or white clouds until i hooked the GPR Led up. But could just be a coincidence.

and just to rule out GP's..... Installed all 8 new motorcraft zd-11's last july while doing the 50c mod.

 

Well, you can always disconnect your Air Intake Heater wires, and use that as a GPR. If that solves your problem, now you know it's the GPR. Plus, being in Florida, you should do a cheap delete plug on your AIH anyway. Get a drain pan plug for a Dodge Cummins truck, it will fit in there. Cost you $5.

 

Now how would one do that and exactly how dose it work ?

Yes in Fl we don't need no AIH. I got the plug on my list to Santa LOL. But if it dosent show up Thats good info to know. I will be doing that !

 

I found this refresher:[LINK]

 

I swapped the GPR & AIH on my wifes truck a couple of years ago. Haven't messed with mine yet since my factory GPR still works fine.

 

I was under the impression that the AIH could be deleted no matter what the climate is and has nothing to do with cold starting? I thought there was a very specific criteria for the AIH to even be energized

 

It's to help control smoke in certain situations on a cold start. You're fine without it wherever you are.

 

I have to think you have a loose connection on your LED somewhere? As my GPR was failing and after I installed my LED I found that it sometimes would take 3-4 cycles of the key to make it energize. Without the LED I would have had no idea why it wasn't starting and that the GP's weren't getting power. I know a lot of guys like to measure it by the voltage meter like you were saying. I used guzzles GPR page to test mine and trouble shoot it. I was under the impression that the AIH could be deleted in any climate and not affect cold starting because it has such a specific criteria for energizing that it rarely comes on?

 

Sorry for the multiple posts. I was posting from my phone and it kept telling me it wasn't going thru but apparently it was.

 

Go to Napa with the gpr. Some have reported a 3 yr warranty or something.

 

Ok so this morning I tested it. 12.3v on the hot side with the key off. Batts had the same. And 0v to the gp's. I cycled the key on and got nothing to the Gp's. so it's bad. Why when I installed my light did it go out ?

 

Has to be coincident

 

I got 4 years out of my last OEM relay.

 

I only got a year out of the napa replacement, so rather than doing a warrantee swap, I'm doing what I should have done, and ordered the stancor upgrade. I probably should have used the aih relay for a bit - might delete it totally if I can find the resistor wiring that holds off the codes and allows the CCT to work.

 

First on the led you need to be sure you get one for 12v. There will be a difference on how they work. PN should be: 276-0272, amber. They come in red and green also.
The swapping of the AIH (relay) with the GPR is what you can do. The AIH is virtually identical, and mounts just in front of the GPR. And on most of our trucks almost never gets used.
I replaced my GPR in Jan this year, looked OEM. It had been on there at least 7 years and 75K miles, as previous owner didn't replace it. But, being a south Louisiana truck, probably didn't get the use my new one will. I went with Motorcraft, it should last a few years.