AC COMPRESSOR NOT WORKING
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: US
AC COMPRESSOR NOT WORKING
I figured out why my truck was overheating. Something shorted out my flexalite dual electric fans and they quit working. I don't know if it is the fans or just the control box. Whatever happend it melted a 50 amp fuse in an high voltage sterio fuse block. But something else is wrong, if im not mistaken when you turn on the defroster shouldn't the compressor kick on? Its not, not even when the ac is turned on. The fans shorting out caused this because the fans wire up to the power wire of the compressor so they turn on whenever the heater/ac is on. I quickly looked at the fuses so maybe i missed something but i didn't see any burnt. Is there a switch or a relay anywhere?
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,987
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From: Memphis, TN
AC COMPRESSOR NOT WORKING
The accumulator is the metal tank to the R of the engine sticking out of the plastic ductwork in the engine compartment. It stands upright and has a right-angle tube coming out the L side with the low-pressure port on it, and another coming out the bottom. On the R side, you'll see the low-pressure switch with a 2-terminal connector with 3 wires in it.
All you have to do to test is turn the key to RUN (the engine can be off) and turn the A/C on, then test both sides of the low-pressure switch for 12V. If the system is charged with at least 19psi of refrigerant, the switch should be closed (short across the terminals) and you should have 12V on both sides.
If you don't have 12V on either, then it's not getting power from the dash switch and you should check the fuses and the controls.
If you DO have 12V on both sides of the pressure switch, check the compressor clutch connector. If there's 12V there with it plugged in but the clutch doesn't move, then the clutch magnet is bad. If there's 12V on both sides, the ground is bad.
All you have to do to test is turn the key to RUN (the engine can be off) and turn the A/C on, then test both sides of the low-pressure switch for 12V. If the system is charged with at least 19psi of refrigerant, the switch should be closed (short across the terminals) and you should have 12V on both sides.
If you don't have 12V on either, then it's not getting power from the dash switch and you should check the fuses and the controls.
If you DO have 12V on both sides of the pressure switch, check the compressor clutch connector. If there's 12V there with it plugged in but the clutch doesn't move, then the clutch magnet is bad. If there's 12V on both sides, the ground is bad.
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: US
AC COMPRESSOR NOT WORKING
Thanks Steve. I Pulled the electric fans off and checked them. It seam sthat the thermostat and control box went bad. They will work wired directly to the battery. I put the original fixed blade flexilite and fan shroud back on and it didn't overheat this morning. I think i'll write flexilite and complain. Maybe i can get a new controler out of it. I'll check the switch this weekend. If its the dash switch, Is the part i need to change where the **** goes on? Are each of those ***** differnt switches or are they all one unit? Im refering to the controle behind each ****. I don't know thats the one part of the dash i haven't taken apart for any reason.
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clint39
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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Sep 12, 2012 09:36 AM
farmnaggie
Cooling, Heating, Ventilation & A/C
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May 8, 2006 09:56 AM
2002, ac, air, clutch, comppresor, compressor, conditioner, connector, defrosters, dosent, engaging, f150, ford, kick, kicking, replace, truck, working
