Dancing Vacuum Needle
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Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Boise, Idaho
That happened to the other head. The comp springs are the only thing left over from that. Since then, it's had new lifters, push rods, rockers, retainers, valves, retainers, and keepers, along with the head.
I just spoke with a guy here at the cylinder head shop. He doesn't seem to think its a valve or clearance issue, but something to do with the ignition. Cracked cap/rotor, damaged wire, off a tooth, etc. Thoughts on that?
He said that if it was a valve not sealing, it'd be doing it all the time, not just under load. ((However, he was sure to mention they don't do much with running vehicle diagnostics.))
I'll pull the valve cover and get some videos of the valves running. Maybe a couple different eyes can tell me something.
I just spoke with a guy here at the cylinder head shop. He doesn't seem to think its a valve or clearance issue, but something to do with the ignition. Cracked cap/rotor, damaged wire, off a tooth, etc. Thoughts on that?
He said that if it was a valve not sealing, it'd be doing it all the time, not just under load. ((However, he was sure to mention they don't do much with running vehicle diagnostics.))
I'll pull the valve cover and get some videos of the valves running. Maybe a couple different eyes can tell me something.
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find tdc first, and look at that, but I thought you changed all of that from the other truck. did you ever change the plugs back to autolites? did you ever switch boxes off the fender? does your box on the fender have a BLUE block where the wires go into it? hook up a seperate ground wire to that box, it could be loseing it's ground
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From: Boise, Idaho
I did change all that over from other truck, but.... that's when the vacuum needle was dancing around, which has since stopped.
The popping under acceleration is something that developed after that, and after all that mess.
I have switched back to the Autolites, although they weren't new plugs. They were a known good set I had in the garage that I'd ran before.
The ignition module is the only thing I didn't try swapping off the other truck. The one in the 81 is the original as far as I know (or at least a Ford replacement). Which is the ground wire on it? Where is its current ground?
The popping under acceleration is something that developed after that, and after all that mess.
I have switched back to the Autolites, although they weren't new plugs. They were a known good set I had in the garage that I'd ran before.
The ignition module is the only thing I didn't try swapping off the other truck. The one in the 81 is the original as far as I know (or at least a Ford replacement). Which is the ground wire on it? Where is its current ground?
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just run a 14 guage wire from one of the bolts that fasten it to the plastic fender, over to the fender. you can take the box off the fender, and look at the bottom of it, it should be smooth, and rubbery feeling. if it's melted, or sticky, replace it. Check the inside of the plug wires where they sit on the end of the plug, and make sure they still "snap" when you push it on the plug. I use a dab od dielectric grease on both ends of the plug wire, it makes the boot slip on/ off better, and helps keep corrosion down. open your cap, and look carefully inside for any black pencil lines [carbon tracking] that could cross fire a plug at higher rpms. Check the rotor, and make sure the center point in the cap is not wearing a hole in it. Also check that the carbon rod that's the contact inside the cap for the rotor/ coil wire is not broken, or stuck. you should be able to push it in with your finger.
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My wife just reminded me to have you check the firing order. I rebuilt a tractor one time, and could never get it quite right. She told me to check the firing order, and I had it wrong. Guess I'll never live that one down.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Near Los Angeles
just run a 14 guage wire from one of the bolts that fasten it to the plastic fender, over to the fender. you can take the box off the fender, and look at the bottom of it, it should be smooth, and rubbery feeling. if it's melted, or sticky, replace it. Check the inside of the plug wires where they sit on the end of the plug, and make sure they still "snap" when you push it on the plug. I use a dab od dielectric grease on both ends of the plug wire, it makes the boot slip on/ off better, and helps keep corrosion down. open your cap, and look carefully inside for any black pencil lines [carbon tracking] that could cross fire a plug at higher rpms. Check the rotor, and make sure the center point in the cap is not wearing a hole in it. Also check that the carbon rod that's the contact inside the cap for the rotor/ coil wire is not broken, or stuck. you should be able to push it in with your finger.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Lost
Same lobe as the jammed rocker arm was previously on? Just curious about a possible cause.....
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From: Boise, Idaho
Originally, ALL of them jammed. I had to use a crow bar to remove those improperly sized shims off. The cam was okay after that for a while. I found out the lifters were what was damaged and I put in a new set of lifters. Meticulously went through the whole break in process with them. Apparently, it didn't take.
What's that mean? All my bearings chewed up?
The whole bottom of the lifter was missing, and when I put another lifter in the hole and turned the engine over, it didn't move up and down. So...yeah, it's got the whole bottom of a lifter and a whole lobe of a cam in there somewhere.
Just what kind of damage are we looking at?
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the bottom of the lifter is probably in the oil pan, but the cam just wore down. I imagine there is a hard spot in the cam, a metelorigest would have to determin that. The failure was probably the cam right off the bat, but there have been so many other problems IDK. drain the oil, and stick an old speaker magnet in it, to see if there's any metal in there. if not, put in a new cam, and keep going, if so, pull it, and clean it up inside.
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From: Near Los Angeles
Hey J., I'm really sorry to hear that. I know how hard you worked on it, in the dead of winter. Hell, I'd give you a metal just for that. Talk about the pits, uh?
If it were mine I would break it down and give it a quick wash, bottle brush the oil passages, ck the bore, and throw it back together with new bearings and gaskets.
If it makes you feel better, I still have my first engine in my garage, new pistons, c.molly rings, etc. with the mysteriously vanishing oil psi. I'm thinking about calling a priest for an exorcism. Maybe we can get a group rate.
Good luck. K.
If it were mine I would break it down and give it a quick wash, bottle brush the oil passages, ck the bore, and throw it back together with new bearings and gaskets.
If it makes you feel better, I still have my first engine in my garage, new pistons, c.molly rings, etc. with the mysteriously vanishing oil psi. I'm thinking about calling a priest for an exorcism. Maybe we can get a group rate.
Good luck. K.
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From: Boise, Idaho
Yeah, either the cam didn't like the new lifters I put on it (which were coated in break in lube, and then broken in for 20 minutes at 2500 RPMs), or one of the lifters that I got had something wrong with it. It didn't happen until I replaced them.
A good 1/16" to 1/8" of metal missing (depending on the side of the lifter).
Thanks Kevin,
Yeah, that was one of the most miserable jobs I've done (and the cold didn't even bother me!). Everything just took forever, and whatever could go wrong, did.
I'm thinking of pulling it out and borrowing my brother's engine stand. Looking around town on Craigslist for a cheap 300 I can put in its place. I don't have the money to fix it right now and this is my DD. Maybe I'll take my time with it and give it a full rebuild.
I remember that one with the PSI. I forgot that was a completely different engine! That does suck. Who knows, a little divine intervention may just be what we need.
A good 1/16" to 1/8" of metal missing (depending on the side of the lifter).
Hey J., I'm really sorry to hear that. I know how hard you worked on it, in the dead of winter. Hell, I'd give you a metal just for that. Talk about the pits, uh?
If it were mine I would break it down and give it a quick wash, bottle brush the oil passages, ck the bore, and throw it back together with new bearings and gaskets.
If it makes you feel better, I still have my first engine in my garage, new pistons, c.molly rings, etc. with the mysteriously vanishing oil psi. I'm thinking about calling a priest for an exorcism. Maybe we can get a group rate.
Good luck. K.
If it were mine I would break it down and give it a quick wash, bottle brush the oil passages, ck the bore, and throw it back together with new bearings and gaskets.
If it makes you feel better, I still have my first engine in my garage, new pistons, c.molly rings, etc. with the mysteriously vanishing oil psi. I'm thinking about calling a priest for an exorcism. Maybe we can get a group rate.
Good luck. K.
Yeah, that was one of the most miserable jobs I've done (and the cold didn't even bother me!). Everything just took forever, and whatever could go wrong, did.
I'm thinking of pulling it out and borrowing my brother's engine stand. Looking around town on Craigslist for a cheap 300 I can put in its place. I don't have the money to fix it right now and this is my DD. Maybe I'll take my time with it and give it a full rebuild.
I remember that one with the PSI. I forgot that was a completely different engine! That does suck. Who knows, a little divine intervention may just be what we need.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,175
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From: Near Los Angeles
AB--are you sure that lobe is gone? If not, and I'm sure you know this, you could just drop in a new lifter into that hole.
Just curious, did you use an oil, or an additive for the oil, with the zinc etc. for the cam break-in?
Just curious, did you use an oil, or an additive for the oil, with the zinc etc. for the cam break-in?