hello all idi friends.

my passenger side window obviously needed some wd-40 sprayed on the track bar or something because everytime I go to roll it down it's all slanted and sometimes makes a knocking noise like it's off track or something as it approaches the bottom of the door.

It rolls down, but very sloppy. lol

this evenining something happened though..ii had it rolled up, I go to roll it down and as it is approaching the bottom.. I hear the usual knocking sounds a few times and the window is all slanted, but this time something fell off of a track I think? the motor is still good cause when I push the button you can hear it. I just replaced it about 3-4 months ago. i tried feeling around everywhere for something that might have slipped etc.? but you can't see **** or barely feel. could anyone guide me on what my problem is here and how to fix? Thanks.

edit: when my window motor went out 3-4 months ago, it locked the window up, not allowing me to hand-push it up/down. Whatever happened this time, I'am able to hand-push up/down.

 

Sounds like the plastic drive thingies in the motor broke. Its a common thing in these trucks. Plus you obviously have some other issue with the window tracks that should be fixed.

Someone did a really good write up about replacing the plastic thingies with metal nuts, I want to say 1/4-20 is the right size. Do a search and it will come up, pictures and all. Not too hard to do, and works like a champ. Just don't try to close the window with something sticking out, as the plastic thingies are supposed to shear to protect the motor/window/passenger's arm.

 

First off, I appreciate your reply. I will see if this is my problem.

 

No problem, wish I could help more about the window being slanted, that does seem like it could be a track problem. Maybe check the rubber or whatever material it is thats the window actually slides in and see if its busted up? You should be able to get a decent view inside the door if you take off the plastic liner thats under the door panel. Use a flashlight and an inspection mirror and look around.

 

There might be something stuck in the track on the bottom of the window, the motor arm goes down in an arc so it migh be trying to pull the window sideways. To get the windowout you will need to take out the vent window,the are 2 screws on the front of the door and if i remember right 1 bolt on the door behind the door panel. Take the glass out and clean the bottom track with some emory cloth and check the "button" on the arm once clean slap some white grease on it and see if that helps. Not sure on the touque pins though.

 

Well, I took my window motor off just now, took me about 20min. I unscrewed the face plate to access the spider gear and 3 plastic nylon thingies. All 3 of them were intact as I expected because this motor is brand new.

I also found the factory ford window motor in my back seat from the previous owner, out of curiousity I removed the face plate on it, all 3 plastic thingies were still intact.

Hmmm.. what could the problem be? maybe my window just isn't getting good clearance and the tracks need to be lubed and greased etc. idk

 

Figured it out after the tideous process of removing that motor. It was just my track bars needed lubed and oiled good, and I realized my window goes a little too far down so i'm just gonna have to not roll it down so far.

 

I you just changed the window regular motor and not the entire regulator setup, the motor you got could have been calibrated for a slightly longer arm.

 

go to RockAuto Auto Parts and your can order a whole new assy
enter this code on the how did you here about us for a 5% dicount during check out

5% Discount Code: 2C152299BEC9

Please enter this code in the ‘How Did You Hear about Us’ box to receive discount.

Expires: 06/02/2011

RockAuto.com is an online auto parts store founded in Madison, Wisconsin in 1999 by the Taylor family. RockAuto.com now ships thousands of auto parts from over 200 manufacturers to customers worldwide.

The RockAuto Auto Parts catalog is updated daily with mechanical parts like brake pads and shock absorbers, body parts like bumpers and mirrors, interior trim like door handles and carpets, and major assemblies like steering gears, CV axles, and engine long blocks. Service manuals and CDs are available to help customers learn how to perform a repair. The RockAuto Auto Parts catalog is expanding constantly. Someday it may be possible to build an entire car using parts from RockAuto.com!

RockAuto.com prices are low every day! Order online at RockAuto Auto Parts 24 hours a day. Parts are conveniently delivered to your door. Have parts questions that must be answered accurately? RockAuto.com has excellent customer service agents ready to help you get the parts you need. E-mail service@rockauto.com or call Toll Free, 1-866-762-5288. (7am to 10pm Mon-Thurs, 7am to 9pm Fri, 8am to 4pm Sat -Sun, Central Time).
__________________





DORMAN Part # 741754
Front Right; Power Window Regulator w/Motor

$73.79
Add to Cart

 

What do you mean by calibrated? AFAIK there is no adjustment in the motor. Its a really simple setup, voltage in one direction spins the motor clockwise. Reverse the voltage, the motor spins counter-clockwise. The motor shaft has a worm gear on it that turns a large round gear. The round gear has a triangular hole in the center. The plastic drive thingies fit in the corners of the triangle. The output gear interlocks with the plastic thingies to rotate. Too much force with cause the plastic thingies to deform or shear preventing motor damage, a broken window or cutting off someones arm.

There is nothing that shuts the motor off at the extents of window travel. Watch the volt meter and play with the window. The motor stalls when the window is all the way up, or all the way down, but its not shut off and is still drawing power.

Saying this, I have no clue if there is any adjustment in the regulator linkage or the tracks the window runs in. If its getting crooked and jamming, something isn't right. When the plastic things in my motors went out the windows worked fine 95% of the time. But if they went down too far, they seemed to fail 100% of the time. Nothing I could do externally would make the window go back up. But if I walked away, they would sometimes magically work again later that day, or the next morning. Replacing the broken up plastic crap with metal nuts fixed it 100%

Vfelix,
a new regulator and motor is an expensive outlay that I wouldn't pay in this case. The regulator is dead simple, it is half a gear riveted to a metal bar. The motor turns the gear part which rotates the bar. The bar has piece on the end that slides in a metal track attached to the bottom of the window. As the end of the bar moves up and down as it rotates which moves the window (because its rotating, it also moves left and right, which is why it needs to slide in the track at the bottom of the window).

BTW thats a nice pimp for Rockauto, they're a great place to buy stuff for cheap. I just don't think thats the answer here.

 

Yep the website is useful for refrence points and pictures

 

All I was saying was that the motor he got could have been made for a assembly with a slightly longer arm. Having replaced both my window regulators and having compared them, the aftermarket one is never the same (if I remember the aftermarket arm was slightly shorter). So if he bought a aftermarket motor that was made to work with a aftermarket arm, then it might not work perfectly with a OEM arm that is slightly different than a aftermarket arm. That all I'm sayin' I could be wrong and it does sound more like a track issue but I was just throwing that out there.

 

You're right! I hadn't thought about that, its hard to see whats going on inside the door.

Snapon,
I understand what you mean, and a different length arm would change the linkage, but shouldn't affect the style of these motors. A setup where the motor had limit switches that stop the motor at the end of travel would need to be calibrated to a specific length.
Our design has no limit switches, the motor keeps drawing current until you take your finger off the switch. Thats what I was trying to say.

The change in length of the arm could be a design change that slightly alters the geometry of the linkage to fix some problem in the original design, or its just the company screwed up.

I'm sorry if I came across a little hostile, I was in a bit of a mood last night for some reason.

 

I was a bit thrown off by that as well... a window motor being calibrated??? lol