bad purchase?
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Joined: Feb 2011
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bad purchase?
I bought a 84 f350 with a 6.9 international for only $1000 and i want to know if i made a bad buy. it has 187k miles on it and the body, and interior is in amazing shape, with almost no rust. The bad: the block is cracked. he said he has ran it for 20k miles with the crack. it also has a misfire and it smokes blue. it also doesn't like to go into drive for acouple of seconds.
He first wanted $2500 then dropped to a grand when he told me about the block. What are my options here? im only 16 and make about $10 an hour, but i love the truck.
He first wanted $2500 then dropped to a grand when he told me about the block. What are my options here? im only 16 and make about $10 an hour, but i love the truck.
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First the drive issue: It wil go into reverse fine, but when i attempt drive, 1st or 2nd, it will rev like it is in neutral. it sometimes does it for 2 seconds or a minute if it sits overnight. once i drive it, it will only wait a second or two. The ATF looks like motor oil and smells burnt, im assuming it hasn't been changed in its whole life, but i have been told changing it might ruin the transmission.
The crack: he has said it has been running on the crack for 20k miles, which he mainly hauled stone, im amazed too. it has been welded before but it has appeared again. I estimate im losing about a quart of antifreeze every 2-3 days.
I'll post pictures once i figure it out (i'm new
). it also has a miss-fire and today it started idling very rough and is smoking a whole lote more than normal.
The crack: he has said it has been running on the crack for 20k miles, which he mainly hauled stone, im amazed too. it has been welded before but it has appeared again. I estimate im losing about a quart of antifreeze every 2-3 days.
I'll post pictures once i figure it out (i'm new
). it also has a miss-fire and today it started idling very rough and is smoking a whole lote more than normal.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,437
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From: Charles Town, W bygod Va
It should be a c6. If you can change it yourself you should be able to find one on craigslist or local junkyard for under $500. Jy usually offers 30 day warranty. Sounds to me like you should try to drive it and see what happens. If you think you might be in over your head try to sell it, its worth $6-700 as scrap metal.
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I guess ill just run her till she dies, maybe just put jb weld on it to stop the leaking antifreeze, not as a final repair.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,227
Likes: 149
From: Higginsville, MO
im not sure about saying that changing the trans fluid killing the trans..... that sounds like a big steamy pile of BS to me.... change the fluid and filter. if it smells burnt and is black like used motor oil then it is not doing its job and you will probably kill it faster by not changing it.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,227
Likes: 149
From: Higginsville, MO
also there is some additive you can put in the antifreeze to try and stop the block leak. Bar's Leaks Liquid Copper Block Sealer
can be found in most auto parts stores. normally would not be recommended for a salvageable engine but if your block is cracked and sounds like your loosing large amounts of antifreeze.... and if someone for some reason welded on the block she's pretty much out of salvageable range.... follow the instructions on the bottle carefully regardless of the engine if you want it to last for a while longer.... but id give it a shot if i was in ur shoes..... i defiantly would
can be found in most auto parts stores. normally would not be recommended for a salvageable engine but if your block is cracked and sounds like your loosing large amounts of antifreeze.... and if someone for some reason welded on the block she's pretty much out of salvageable range.... follow the instructions on the bottle carefully regardless of the engine if you want it to last for a while longer.... but id give it a shot if i was in ur shoes..... i defiantly would
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,389
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From: Massachusetts
First the drive issue: It wil go into reverse fine, but when i attempt drive, 1st or 2nd, it will rev like it is in neutral. it sometimes does it for 2 seconds or a minute if it sits overnight. once i drive it, it will only wait a second or two. The ATF looks like motor oil and smells burnt, im assuming it hasn't been changed in its whole life, but i have been told changing it might ruin the transmission.
The crack: he has said it has been running on the crack for 20k miles, which he mainly hauled stone, im amazed too. it has been welded before but it has appeared again. I estimate im losing about a quart of antifreeze every 2-3 days.
I'll post pictures once i figure it out (i'm new). it also has a miss-fire and today it started idling very rough and is smoking a whole lote more than normal.
The crack: he has said it has been running on the crack for 20k miles, which he mainly hauled stone, im amazed too. it has been welded before but it has appeared again. I estimate im losing about a quart of antifreeze every 2-3 days.
I'll post pictures once i figure it out (i'm new
). it also has a miss-fire and today it started idling very rough and is smoking a whole lote more than normal.Where are you located? Anywhere near Western Mass? I'd travel to help out a fellow IDI owner!
What color is the smoke?
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Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,389
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From: Massachusetts
As for the block cracks...
My Dad had a Jeep with an Inline 6 with a crack. He was young and didn't have enough money for a replacement engine, so his buddy welded it. Help up pretty well.
I've also ran Bar's Leak in my 352 FE in my '65 F350 because that block was cracked also. I had great results.
I also tried using Quiksteel putty on my crack. It didn't hold up. I'd try JB Weld first, and then do the Bars Leak to really seal it up.
When you do get a replacement engine, be sure to change out the heater core first as it will have plenty of "gook" in there and you'd rather not have that re-circulate into the next engine.
My Dad had a Jeep with an Inline 6 with a crack. He was young and didn't have enough money for a replacement engine, so his buddy welded it. Help up pretty well.
I've also ran Bar's Leak in my 352 FE in my '65 F350 because that block was cracked also. I had great results.
I also tried using Quiksteel putty on my crack. It didn't hold up. I'd try JB Weld first, and then do the Bars Leak to really seal it up.
When you do get a replacement engine, be sure to change out the heater core first as it will have plenty of "gook" in there and you'd rather not have that re-circulate into the next engine.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 4,086
Likes: 1
From: Malahat/Cowichan Valley
irontite all weather seal will seal most anything and even helps our high compression monsters seal up. It will seal a headgasket better than anything i have seen/tried. My old engine sealed up tight with it and ran for the last few months prior to engine swap. Highly recommend. Tried bars leaks, both the reg and head gasket fix. No joy. tried the all weather seal from irontite and zipped it up instantly. If the block is truly cracked, maybe use the ceramic seal from irontite.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,259
Likes: 17
From: Gambrills
