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Mar 14, 2011 | 10:04 PM

#16

Sleepy445FE

Fleet Mechanic

Joined: Nov 2010

Posts: 1,501

Likes: 1

From: Axtell, TX

Ha I have the same saddle tanks. I'm in Waco too with the same zip. Thats an OLD area code though. It hasnt been 817 since the early 90s, thats Ft Worth now. I didnt know the company was based here. Small world.

Everyone has their own picks of header. I run Hookers and they fit well and have no problems with them. Others have the same story with the other makes. Up to you.

Mar 14, 2011 | 10:24 PM

#17

fordnurse

Thread Starter

Senior User

Joined: Jan 2011

Posts: 145

Likes: 0

From: Dothan, Alabama

Sleepy since you know about these saddle tanks..whats the difference between the switch on the floor and switch on the dash??? How do I know if they are ok to operate??? I know the extra fuel lines are good...What else do I need to look for?? They are plastic tanks from what I can tell.. and one has a crack in it close to the mouth of the tank. Im sure they make a repair kit.

Mar 14, 2011 | 10:41 PM

#18

Sleepy445FE

Fleet Mechanic

Joined: Nov 2010

Posts: 1,501

Likes: 1

From: Axtell, TX

The switch on the floor opens the valve to the corresponding tank. The switch on the dash controls the sending units for each tank. It could be the other way around but I think thats right. Yes they are a plastic tank. You dont have to worry about rust but instead you can get a crack like you have. I'm not sure what to use to repair it. I've repaired plastic pieces before but not anything that is in constant contact with gas. I imagine you would just have to find the correct epoxy?

I would make sure you have an inline fuel filter for every tank. Then switch tanks and see if works. If a tank is putting a lot of junk in the fuel filter then I would drop that tank and clean it out before use. If everything is good your set for a looong road trip!