Why not? It makes for an excellent fuel! Or are you talking about waste diesel oil? If so then yah, that stuff's nasty, but regular engine oil (especially if it came from a newer car) is just fine to burn if you filter it good before putting it in the tank.

 

Brand new, right out of the quart bottle. Cheapest stuff they had, 10w-30 Tractor Supply brand, what's that...Traveller or something.
I've ran fresh 10w-30 in the fuel tank many times, seems like a cheaper alternative for more lubrication in the IP...or at least I like to think it does...
Quart of 10w-30 for like $2.50 and just dump it in the tank is quick and easy. I've ran Power Service thru my Dad's 03 7.3 PSD. As a testimonial, the truck has 170k miles and is driven gently. 20 miles each way to work each day makes for a 40 mile round trip. Every so often it starts to feel doggy, so I pick up a bottle of Power Service (white or grey, I never remember) and run it thru at double dose for the first tank, and single dose until the bottle runs out. WOW! Every time, that cleaner makes a world of difference. I've ran it thru my truck once, didn't notice anything...but I've only tried on one tank.
I don't get it though, it just seems like it's water-based. Just doesn't seem right...but hey, it does work wonders on my Dad's truck.

 

Generally speaking, the cold idle solenoid will come on when you try to start the truck (unless its just a filter replacement and the engine was warmed up before you start). Its meant to increase the idle speed, I'm not sure if that actually increasing fueling at all, it depends on how the injection pump works, but its no different than flooring the pedal....

I'm not well versed in the frictional characteristics of ATF, but look closer at these snippets from the specs:

Hmmmm, 'protects against wear', 'provides wear protection'. Sounds to me like something I'd like to have in my injection pump. Matter of fact, I just took a look at a Power Service bottle (red 911 bottle) "protects against ULSD wear". Seems to be saying the same there!!

You have to remember that friction and wear don't go hand in hand. If the friction that ATF causes wears out injection pumps, wouldn't it wear out transmissions as well? Why does Ford spec ATF for manual transmissions like the ZF5 and M5OD?? You don't need to "create" friction in a manual transmission, I'd think you'd want as little as possible. (yes you need a little bit of friction for synchros to work, but I doubt gear oil vs ATF makes a big difference there)

Supposedly the dye in non-taxed diesel is also chemically identifiable. My thoughts are that just the color of a dip won't prove that you put the wrong fuel in your tank. Now I've never been dipped, but I'm pretty sure you could bring them to court if you got fined. Maybe you had a fuel leak you couldn't really find, so you used some ATF to "dye" your fuel so you could easily find the leak. Is the dye for ATF the same in non-taxed fuel?? I have no clue, so maybe I'm wrong here. It just seems to me like some people preach that putting a quart of ATF in your fuel is tax evasion and if you do it, you'll find yourself royally screwed up the rear.

I'm with BlueOvalBud on this one. I put ATF in my filter when I changed it almost 2 years ago. I'm going to put some in again this week when I put on a new filter. In the time since I changed the filter, I never saw the water in fuel light come on. The fuel filter light came on a few times this winter when it was damn cold. I thought maybe there was a little water in there icing it up, but didn't get even a single drop of water when I drained a half cup of fuel out. All you guys with tons of water in your fuel might want to fill up someplace else in the future, or make sure there isn't a hole in your filler/tank thats letting water in, cause I really don't buy the condensation crap. I also have a stock of waste oil from the past couple years from oil changes that I just never bothered to get rid of. I've started filtering it through a whole house water filter, and will start pouring it in my tank probably this week (been waiting for it to stay warmer at night so I don't have to worry about it being too thick in the morning). I'm probably going to dump some in tonight or tomorrow since I just filled up.

If it ends up ruining my pump and injectors, eh whatever... My pump and injectors are original with ~202,000 miles on them. They're going to be changed out soon with the set I got from U-haul, but I figure what the hell, run some old oil through and see what happens. With diesel prices rising again, I don't have anything to lose, worst case scenario, the pump dies and I call up AAA to get the truck back home, then put in the new pump/injectors.

Hears another thought. How many of you drink? Those that do, is it more than whatever the daily recommended amount of alcohol? I'm pretty sure thats going to ruin your liver. If you don't drink, do you smoke? Cause that sure as hell ruins your lungs and causes cancer. If you neither drink nor smoke, insert your unhealthy vice, my point here is that everyone is getting up on a soapbox to say "don't run that in your truck, its not meant for it!" Not everything you eat or do is what nature intended, but we all do it!!

I'll run what I want in my truck, if you disagree, fine. ULSD is not meant to be put in your engine either, but we sure as hell don't have any choice in that matter anymore. Run what you want for additives, share your knowledge, its what this forum is all about.

PS, my engine leaks/burns a bit of oil, I also have a turbo. I just did an oil change at 5,000 miles, oops! its over everyones recommended 3,000 miles. I know oils today are better than they used to be. I also haven't checked the level as often as I should, and I run the smaller stock filter, not the larger Powerstroke one. I think I drained out about 2 gallons on that last oil change, oops a little low... My truck didn't complain, and most of my driving lately is just myself and an empty bed, sometimes a passenger, so I really wasn't worried about it.

There's my opinion! Please discuss how I'm an idiot and my truck is going to explode tomorrow!
PS the guy at the pump next to me today asked if it was an 86 (its an 88..) but the quick conversation was all about how these old trucks never die.

 

Regarding removing the IP cover...... if ya don't reinstall the IP top the right way you'll be buying a new engine.....due to engine runaway...... KABOOM!!

As for ATF it is NOT a lubricant so quit using it as one....

If the key is on the power should be going to the Fast idle and timing advance.... just push the fuel pedal to the floor once (key on) it will set fast idle for the start. You will have to do that every time you attempt a new start sequence.

Have not posted this for a while guess its time.......

93 year info.......other than some fuses mentioned the 7.3 system 87-94 is basically the same.

GLOW PLUG CONTROL
HOW THE CIRCUIT WORKS
The Glow Plug Control circuit applies power to the Glow Plugs, which heat the combustion chambers so that the diesel engine can be started.

Glow Plug Controller
The solid-state Glow Plug Controller, attached to the top of the engine block, controls the Glow Plug pre-glow and after-glow time. It also controls the circuit’s operation by sensing engine temperature, Glow Plug voltage and after-glow voltage from the start/run circuit.

When the Ignition Switch is turned to START or RUN, voltage from Maxi-fuse K is applied through the Glow Plug Controller to the Wait-To-Start Indicator Lamp.
The Glow Plugs heat up in zero to fifteen seconds, depending on engine coolant temperature. After the Glow Plugs heat up, the controller cycling switch opens and turns the Wait-To-Start Indicator Lamp off. The Glow Plugs are now warm enough for the engine to be started.

At the same time the Ignition Switch is turned to RUN, voltage from Maxi-fuse K is applied to the after-glow timer (located inside the Glow Plug Controller). The after-glow timer cycles the Glow Plugs for up to two minutes, depending on engine temperature. The after-glow timer then opens. The Wait-To-Start Indicator Lamp will not light during the after-glow period.
If the Ignition Switch is turned OFF, it can be turned to ON immediately, and the Glow Plug heating cycle will start again.

Diesel Start/Run
The diesel engine uses two batteries to provide extra power for starting and Glow Plug heating. Power is applied from the batteries, through heavy gauge wires, to the Starter Solenoid (located in the Starter Motor assembly). When the Wait-To-Start Indicator goes out, the Ignition Switch can be turned to START.

With the Ignition Switch in START or RUN, voltage is supplied to the Fuel Heater, Fuel Shutoff Solenoid, and the Engine Temperature Switch through Maxi-fuses K and U.
The Fuel Heater is in the Fuel Filter/Separator. It heats the diesel fuel, melting any wax that might clog the filter. The heater has an internal thermostat to turn it on as needed at 32*F.

The Fuel Shutoff Solenoid controls the flow of fuel into the injection pump. With the Ignition Switch in START or RUN, the Solenoid is energized, and fuel is allowed to flow into the injection pump. When the Ignition Switch is turned off, the solenoid is deenergized, fuel flow stops, and the engine stops running.

The Engine Temperature Switch provides voltage to the Cold Timing Advance Solenoid and the Cold Idle Solenoid. When the engine temperature is below 112°F (44°C), the Engine Temperature Switch is closed. When the Ignition Switch is turned to START or RUN, the solenoids are energized, advancing injection pump timing and engine idle (you must step on the fuel pedal to set fast idle), allowing the engine to run more smoothly when cold. When the engine temperature reaches 112°F (44°C), the Engine Temperature Switch opens. This deenergizes the solenoids, returning the timing and idle to normal.

Diagnostic Aid for Glow Plugs

 

My interior visor calls for 5k mile regular changes, and 2,500 mile changes during severe operation. I tried to take some pictures, but the text is so small it's not readable in a picture. So I'll type it out...
"Service Type: Oil Quality: Oil and Filter change interval:
Normal SF/CC or SF/CD 5,000 miles/8,000 km
Severe* SF/CD only 2,500 miles/4,000 km

*Severe Service: Trailer towing, Extended high speed operations at GVWR, Extended idling, Operation in severe dust conditions, or short trips during freezing weather."

Reading that, I suppose my operations are severe. WOT thru each gear, lots of idle time, and sitting on the governor in each gear at times. I don't do much towing, but I'll throw 3k-4k on the bed and still run it as I do empty. Ahh well, my operation technique just helps prove the IDI is un-killable!

I've had my oil level not even read on the dipstick. Throw about 5 quarts in and it was back up to par. That's happened about 3 or 4 times, when i forget to check the oil weekly. I know I'm burning oil, it chews thru about a quart per week. I cleaned up my spare CDR and intalled that last week, curious to see if it changes anything. Probably not, but we'll see.

Matter of fact, I don't think I've done an oil change since last Fall around October. I'll check my filter, I always write the date and mileage on the filter. My guess is that it's been about 8k miles of sever service with lots of WOT, extended idling times, cold conditions...all that crap. I just keeping adding oil to keep it up to par, sometime here I'll change the filer, but I figure if it's getting a quart of fresh stuff once a week, it could withstand a 10k mile filter change. This IDI is a tough engine.

[/quote}PS the guy at the pump next to me today asked if it was an 86 (its an 88..) but the quick conversation was all about how these old trucks never die.[/quote]

Was he driving a newer truck and saying "I wish I still had that old truck, it just wouldn't die". I get that a lot from the Superduty guys, or ones who crossed over into the Chebby and Cummins worlds Cheers for having tough workhorse trucks that just won't die!

 

Run ATF, dont run ATF, its your truck but it isnt a lubricant. Cleaner sure, NOT A LUBRICANT. Anyone out there.....hello......hello.....

The whole start of this thread was about putting in a new IP and using ATF in it. Someone tell me why you would do that? Anyone?

 

Since I started the side-track for this thread, I'll apologize...sorry for taking this thread from where it started over here at point A and bringing it down here to point Z.

Although, I do like it when threads get side-tracked because a lot of information pops up that wouldn't usually be mentioned if the thread stayed on topic. Weird, yes...but being able to absorb so much information/knowledge is aweomse! We all have so much to share, and as Festus Hagen's signature says..."Increase knowledge, share yours!"
The only disadvantage to side-tracking threads is that you typically remember the information in the thread, but since it's off-topic, it's VERY VERY difficult to find that information again in a search because the title won't correspond with the information in the thread. Ahh well, that's why we're all on here every night learning as much as possible. We catch it nice and fresh, and copy/paste into notepad documents and save them on a flash-drive for future reference. At least that's what I do...

I ran straight ATF in a brand new filter going thru my brand new IP and Injectors because I had no diesel on hand, but we do stock several quarts of Carquest "DEX/MERC" which the bottle says is an H specification for 88 and later Fords except those running F, V, or SP. That's the fluid we keep on stock to use in my Dad's 03 7.3 PSD/Auto 4R100 transmission. Although the last time we flushed the trans this summer, they discontinued that particular bottle. Now Carquest has MERCON V. Recommended for Ford and select imports, and is "approved for ZF applications". Not for use in in trans. requiring Ford type F. Have both bottles in front of me, that info is straight from the label.
If I had diesel on hand when I did my IP and Injectors, I probably would have used that instead...but I didn't. No real specific reason other than not having it.

I do use the straight 10w-30 in the fuel tank though...and probably always will. I've used the Power Service white and grey bottles and it just seems weird that such a watery looking fluid would be a lubricant...

 

I see what you are saying but thicker isnt always better. The ATF that was produced 20 years ago was free from all the additives and majority of the friction modifiers. It was more of a lube then and those still using it are running those nasty friction modifiers through their injection pumps. Even the Type F fluid made today is different than it was 20 years ago. As technology expands, so do the items made, hence synthetic oils and the like. Im not saying itll kill your engine, or your pump etc, but ATF doesnt have a BTU rating for a reason, it wasnt meant to burn.

Rather than the 10/30 you ought to run the non detergent 30w. Any reason you use the 10/30? wouldnt two stroke be cheaper? maybe not....

 

I never thought about using non-detergent 30w...I actually don't even understand the difference between the non-detergent and 10w-30? I just use the 10w-30 because I buy it by the case and stock that in the garage for my lawn mowers, and other small engines.
The price is the same I think for the 10w-30 and 30w. Do you think I should just run the standard 30w?

 

just straight lube oil, no detergents or anything would probably be better. Just my humble o.

 

If its NOT a lubricant, why is it the OEM fluid for Ford MANUAL transmissions????

HELLO HELLO!!! ATF does lubricate!!!

It appears we're just beating a dead horse here, I'll run what I want, you run what you want. Our opinions are out there, anyone that reads this can decide with their own brain what to do.

 

Yeah already stated. Run what you want. Two words: friction modifiers. All done, enjoy and don't get so ruffled. Are you nervous about something?

 

You're right it does! and I do remember that. My point was that a lot of the people here with turbos religiously do oil changes at 3,000 miles because otherwise its going to ruin the engine/turbo. Thats part of the whole synthetic is cheaper argument, if you change dino every 3,000 and synthetic at whatever... Sending the oil for testing doesn't look like it saves much money either, at least not at the miles that I run. Guys that drive 3-4 times the miles I do, I can see why testing that first run of synthetic would save you money over the life of the truck, but at ~$25 a pop (or whatever it is) I'd rather just pay the extra $10 and get new oil and filter.

Was he driving a newer truck and saying "I wish I still had that old truck, it just wouldn't die". I get that a lot from the Superduty guys, or ones who crossed over into the Chebby and Cummins worlds Cheers for having tough workhorse trucks that just won't die! [/QUOTE]

I think the guy was driving like a cherokee or something? *shrug* It did brighten my day, especially when you consider the exterior condition of my truck, lots of rust, crappy rattle can primer for paint, and a beat up cap.

 

with type F this is true.
with mercon v not the case.

 

Here is what i am basing my info on, FACT.








<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" width="374"> <tbody><tr align="left"> <td width="244"> CASTROL MERCON® V

• Enhanced friction durability provides superior transmission life and promotes smooth shifting.

Havoline

- Optimized friction characteristics for smooth shifting and efficient power transfer.


The only thing different about the merc V is that it is a group 3 synthetic base with enhanced friction durability. it was designed to fix transmission shudder issues, they shuddered because the clutch packs would slip so they enhanced the friction modifiers to get more "grip."


What is your info based on, i hate bad info so if you know something i dont, Share! Please
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