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IP replacement - help!

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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 02:41 PM
  #16  
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Yeah, I was nervous putting the old parts on the new one, lol.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 06:06 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by wreckinball
But you definitely wouldnt want to use merc V to my knowledge. ATF's are to be use as cleaners, and NEVER should be considered lubricity additives or similar....ever. They create friction, not something an IP really wants.
You say that, but then that stuff F250HD posted reads that Mercon V can be used instead of 20W hydraulic oil, which AFAIK is supposed to lubricate the system it runs through. I ain't calling you out on this, as I know right about nothing when it comes to oils and such, just wondering...
 
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 06:12 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by snaponprofile
Talked to my friend who's a diesel mechanic today and he told me to crank with the injector lines cracked and then to tighten the lines as fuel comes out. Is there any reason to put anything other than diesel in a new IP?
You buddy told you correct - you keep the lines cracked open at the injectors till the injectors get wet with fuel, then you tighten the lines down and are about good to fire her up. The reason why you leave the lines semi-loose initially is because air compresses a lot so if the lines are tight it will take a lot of cranking to push enough fuel in there to compress the air enough to where the injectors will actually open and purge it into the cylinders - with the lines loose the air just vents out as soon as the pump plungers push fuel in the respective lines.

And no I also don't really see the need for running anything but straight #2 through the pump after you first installed it - maybe if it sat on the shelf for long and wasn't properly packaged and dried up internally some lubricant would be a good idea, but I don't think that's the case with the U-haul pumps...
 
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 06:13 PM
  #19  
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that was my bad though!
i edited the mercon info in after his reply and forget to mention i did!
sorry wreck!
sometimes i hit edit,while i run to grab some more info,and then people have replied already when i finally hit save changes.
i should gather everything i want to put in a post in the first place.i need to work on that better.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 08:57 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by LCAM-01XA
You buddy told you correct - you keep the lines cracked open at the injectors till the injectors get wet with fuel, then you tighten the lines down and are about good to fire her up. The reason why you leave the lines semi-loose initially is because air compresses a lot so if the lines are tight it will take a lot of cranking to push enough fuel in there to compress the air enough to where the injectors will actually open and purge it into the cylinders - with the lines loose the air just vents out as soon as the pump plungers push fuel in the respective lines.

And no I also don't really see the need for running anything but straight #2 through the pump after you first installed it - maybe if it sat on the shelf for long and wasn't properly packaged and dried up internally some lubricant would be a good idea, but I don't think that's the case with the U-haul pumps...
Yeah, I got her started up tonight and she runs awesome. It only took 3 cycles of cranking with the lines cracked then I tightened them after fuel appeared and she fired right up, I was expecting my batteries to give up but they did pretty good. The timing is slightly retarded and running pretty good, much louder than I expected but it quieted down after it ran for a while. Was your engine loud after you swapped in a new IP? My friend who is a diesel mechanic has been doing it for like 25 years and knows almost everything there is to know about diesels. Always good to know someone like that, lol.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2011 | 03:19 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by wreckinball
hmmmm, and people still complain about the electric pumps, all i had to do was not be a dork and crack the injector lines and boom, fired right up. Yeah so i would prime a new pump if i had a mechanical fuel pump and i would tighten any of the injector lines until it was wet at each one because like me you are air locked, i bet you hear a hiss at each injector nut when you loosen them. ATF in a brand new IP, youre serious, what it is already dirty inside? What ATF did you use, you had better say type F. Get that **** out of there and fill it with diesel. its not dirty.....
ITS NEW!!!
Holy crap wreck lol. I ran ATF when my IP was acting up. So i agree dont put it in a new one. But i would x3 on the Battery Chargers lol. And x2 on the Diesel Kleen.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2011 | 05:50 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by snaponprofile
The timing is slightly retarded and running pretty good, much louder than I expected but it quieted down after it ran for a while. Was your engine loud after you swapped in a new IP?
A cold engine advance's the timing to aid in starting and to help keep the smoke down. After it warms to 112 degrees the timing advance should release.

If the engine still has the loud knocking sound after it warms up, the timing is too far advanced. You can only use the timing marks as a spot that most likely will allow the engine to start and run.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2011 | 09:14 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by snaponprofile
The timing is slightly retarded and running pretty good, much louder than I expected but it quieted down after it ran for a while. Was your engine loud after you swapped in a new IP?
Heck if I remember, that thing was always real loud...
 
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Old Mar 14, 2011 | 09:18 AM
  #24  
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Oh, I liked it quieter but I'll probably get used to it, I gotta go searching around for a place to time it now.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2011 | 07:06 PM
  #25  
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It's running

Thanks everyone for the advice.
I replaced the ATF in the filter with diesel. Cracked the fuel lines and started cranking. Took about 15 tries to get the air purged from the lines.

Truck is running great. Hoping to get a few more MPGs now. One of the injectors was a mess. Going to post a picture in a new thread to get some feedback on it.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2011 | 07:53 PM
  #26  
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good to hear bro, ATF is thicker than diesel so it wont bleed as easy although it will look like its really bleeding with the red dye. lol
 
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Old Mar 14, 2011 | 09:04 PM
  #27  
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The ATF in the fuel filter was just me being a dork. Before I bought the replacement IP I read a bunch of posts about IPs. One of them mentioned filling the filter with ATF. Seemed like a good idea so I did it with stopping to think why that is done. Thanks for setting me straight on this one.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2011 | 09:47 PM
  #28  
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I fill up my fuel filter with straight ATF every time I pull the filter. Even on the brand new pump and injectors, I didn't care. I had ATF on the shelf, I don't keep a can of diesel around. Heck, I've even topped off a fuel filter with straight 10w-30 before. Oil is oil, it'll burn with the compression these IDI's run. Aw heck, I don't even run any additives in my truck. No diesel kleen, power service, howe's. Never have, probably never will cuz I'm a cheapo. I run straight diesel, and every so often I just pour a quart of 10w-30 in the fuel tank.

Just my experiences and what I do. Doesn't mean what I do is right, but it works for me. 25k miles on the IP and injectors, they get the WFO treatment everyday .
 
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Old Mar 14, 2011 | 10:28 PM
  #29  
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Motor oil will never go in my fuel filter or fuel tank.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2011 | 11:00 PM
  #30  
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Should I also mention that I by-passed the water seperator like 2 years ago and haven't gotten an aftermarket one yet?

Maybe I'm an IDI rebel. I run Autolite 1109 dual-coil GP's on the stock 83-86 controller, I don't run a water seperator, I run anything oily (NOT Green based/Veggie though) in my fuel tank, and I'll let the truck idle for about 18 hours a day when I'm snowblowing a big storm. I might be asking for a disaster, but it works good and hard for me and I love it. This truck is my heart and soul. If it's running, I'm making money. If it's down, I'm down. If it dies, my business would go belly-up. The truck earned its keep within a week of purchase, but it's taken me until recently to appreciate it.

Just because I do this with my own truck, doesn't mean it's right or wrong. Probably more wrong than right... I'm just trying to politely say that the IDI engine is a tough animal, and isn't as much of a wimp as some people may think. Here's Towcat's post I've saved and re-read almost everyday. I almost have it memorized word-for-word, and I smile when I think about it.
"I went though 3 ZF5's in my F450 carrier from 1993 to 2003. put 980k logbook miles on the chassis. If I didn't put the truck into 5th gear on the freeway, I'd get run off the road. running an average gross of 15-17k lbs, the 5th gear did fine. if you ever owned a F450, you will testify the powertrain is extremely underrated by the factory.. I hydrolocked my first motor at 650k. I stopped giving it any love at 475k.it had low oil pressure, so I stopped changing the oil and stopped adding SCA's. it made it that far with pure neglect. the second motor is ready to be changed out, it's got a fair amount of blow-by now and the draconian smog laws got set back two years. therefore the truck is getting re-powered this spring..
anyone who tells you these motors need to be babied is F.O.S. With my '92 CC dually, I might drop into 4th going up the grapevine pulling 14k GCVW but the truck is doing the speed limit with some throttle left before hitting the floor. thanks to the IC, the EGT's are a non-issue. I'm pushing 900 deg at the end of the exh manifold on the driver's side. even unloaded, the F450 is down into 3rd pulling the grapevine and it tares at 9500lbs. turbo and IC makes a big difference with these trucks. If I was the only driver in my F450, it would get a turbo and a IC in a hot second." All from Oreo's thread here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ith-5-38s.html<!-- / message -->
 
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