1993 Injector pump install
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1993 Injector pump install
I recently bought a 1993 F350, 2wd, 5 speed manual trans. It had all 8 injectors replaced last year, but was in need of an IP. I replaced it the other day along with the fuel filter. While installing the IP I noticed that the timing mark on the new IP is further down that the original. I installed it the way the orginal was, but I have a really low idle (400-500 RPM) and it dies if when throttled up and let it go back down on it own.
I then lined up the timing marks, but it acts almost the same, but with a very loud rattle noise coming from the engine. I have now tried it as far as it will adjust both directions. Nothing seems to help. It runs best, but wrong, in the position that the original IP was in.
I have checked everything I can think of for air leaks in the fuel line. I am now at a loss, and am afraid that maybe I have a wrong IP.
Thank you very much for any ideas.
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I then lined up the timing marks, but it acts almost the same, but with a very loud rattle noise coming from the engine. I have now tried it as far as it will adjust both directions. Nothing seems to help. It runs best, but wrong, in the position that the original IP was in.
I have checked everything I can think of for air leaks in the fuel line. I am now at a loss, and am afraid that maybe I have a wrong IP.
Thank you very much for any ideas.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2010
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From: Las vegas nevada
set the curb idle speed between 600-700rpm after enginge is up to operating temp...
The adjustment screw is on the pass side on the IP, on the throttle lever that the cable attaches to. It just takes a flat head screwdriver. In/clockwise raises and out/counterclockwise lowers it
The adjustment screw is on the pass side on the IP, on the throttle lever that the cable attaches to. It just takes a flat head screwdriver. In/clockwise raises and out/counterclockwise lowers it
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: London, KY
When the timing is about right it should have a lot of rattle to it when it is cold then it should quiet down a little once its warmed up. After you adjust the idle like Felix said take the fuel filter off and fill it up with diesel kleen or sea foam. Put it back on, start the truck and let it run for a couple minutes. Shut it off and let it set over night. Start her back up the next day and see if that don't cure your problem with it wanting to die when you rev it up.
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Thank you alll for the input. I have adjusted the idle set screw, and that helped the idle but nothing else.
I took it for a spin thininking that maybe a load would work out some kinks, but when I would let off the gass it would start loping. When I would drive beyond 2000rpm it would let out white smoke and die. Then it would take craking for quite a while tho get it to start again. I pushed the schrade valve at the top of the fuel filter and a lot of air came out. Shouldn't there be only fuel there?
LSO1123, it is doing a seafoam soak now.
I took it for a spin thininking that maybe a load would work out some kinks, but when I would let off the gass it would start loping. When I would drive beyond 2000rpm it would let out white smoke and die. Then it would take craking for quite a while tho get it to start again. I pushed the schrade valve at the top of the fuel filter and a lot of air came out. Shouldn't there be only fuel there?
LSO1123, it is doing a seafoam soak now.
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 2,123
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From: Fort Worth, TX
Sounds like you still have air in the lines. The air should purge out after a few minutes of the engine running. If not, check for leaks and that the fuel filter is on tight enough and all the connectors on it are not leaking. Does your water in fuel light ever come on? It sounds like a possible fuel starvation issue if it is not air. Where did you get this new IP from?
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 2,123
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From: Fort Worth, TX
Also, check the fuel lift pump and make sure it is putting out enough fuel volume. When you push in the shrader valve, it should **** fuel out at a pretty good stream. Check for diesel fuel in the oil, because when the lift pump fails, it can put fuel into the crank case.
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I got the IP from Pesacola Diesel.
When I push the schrader valve while the truck is running I get a heavy volume of fuel , but there seems to be a lot of air in it even while the truck is running. WIF light has never come on, and I just chaged the fuel filter. Double checked that it is all tight.
Maybe if I am sucking enough air into the fuel system it would cause the lean condition. Still searching for the leak.
When I push the schrader valve while the truck is running I get a heavy volume of fuel , but there seems to be a lot of air in it even while the truck is running. WIF light has never come on, and I just chaged the fuel filter. Double checked that it is all tight.
Maybe if I am sucking enough air into the fuel system it would cause the lean condition. Still searching for the leak.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 2,123
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From: Fort Worth, TX
I got the IP from Pesacola Diesel.
When I push the schrader valve while the truck is running I get a heavy volume of fuel , but there seems to be a lot of air in it even while the truck is running. WIF light has never come on, and I just chaged the fuel filter. Double checked that it is all tight.
Maybe if I am sucking enough air into the fuel system it would cause the lean condition. Still searching for the leak.
When I push the schrader valve while the truck is running I get a heavy volume of fuel , but there seems to be a lot of air in it even while the truck is running. WIF light has never come on, and I just chaged the fuel filter. Double checked that it is all tight.
Maybe if I am sucking enough air into the fuel system it would cause the lean condition. Still searching for the leak.
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Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2011
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From: Houston (Lake Jackson) TX
keep purging the system, I mean like a gallon or more, just to eliminate any posibility that there is just some air stuck somewhere.
If u still keep getting air then u have a leak somewhere.
If u still keep getting air then u have a leak somewhere.
Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2011
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From: Houston (Lake Jackson) TX
along with this, tap into ur fuel line some where, pick a good spot and hook a hose up u can blow through, blow and listen for bubbles in the tank, get a long enough hose so u can be as close to tank as possible, ear on tank if u can.
If u hear bubbles u could still have a pin hole. Now blow without actaully making bubbles, if u run out of breath then u have a pin hole.
Wanna test some more? fill the tank see if ur problem goes away, if it comes back after ur fuel is used up then u need to pull the tank.
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 2,123
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From: Fort Worth, TX
along with this, tap into ur fuel line some where, pick a good spot and hook a hose up u can blow through, blow and listen for bubbles in the tank, get a long enough hose so u can be as close to tank as possible, ear on tank if u can.
If u hear bubbles u could still have a pin hole. Now blow without actaully making bubbles, if u run out of breath then u have a pin hole.
Wanna test some more? fill the tank see if ur problem goes away, if it comes back after ur fuel is used up then u need to pull the tank.
If u hear bubbles u could still have a pin hole. Now blow without actaully making bubbles, if u run out of breath then u have a pin hole.
Wanna test some more? fill the tank see if ur problem goes away, if it comes back after ur fuel is used up then u need to pull the tank.
It might be just as easy to disconnect the rubber fuel line from the lift pump and run a new line into a 5 gallon jug of fresh fuel and see if she runs better and the problems go away. If they do go away, then you can be certain there is an issue with the tank to pump lines, etc.
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The short rubber line going into the fuel pump was wore out. I replaced it and seems to have fixed the air intrusion problem. Unfortunately it still trys to die when I give it gas and let off. As you can imagine this causes a big problem while I try to shift.
The IP that was sent to me is a DB2 4812 and my truck had a DB2 5028. Apparently they are not interchangeable. Guess I will have to get another IP. And the hits just keep on coming!
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The IP that was sent to me is a DB2 4812 and my truck had a DB2 5028. Apparently they are not interchangeable. Guess I will have to get another IP. And the hits just keep on coming!
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I spoke with Pensacola Diesel this morning, and they told me that the 4812 and the 5013 and 5028 are the same pump internally, and it should work fine. He said it sounds like I need to advance my timing, and call him back if I'm still having problems.
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 2,123
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From: Fort Worth, TX
They will all run your truck but if you have a turbo, it is suggested to get a later model pump with a torque screw installed. You can still run a turbo just fine with an older pump but you just won't have the torque screw to adjust low-end fuel delivery. That is if I recall how it works correctly.
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eatont9999, I am without turbo at the moment. 
Maybe after I get it running again I can work on that.
Ok, now it wont start at all. I have good fuel flow all the way to the IP, but just a drip coming out. A very smll drip at that. I checked the fuel kill at the top of the IP, and I'm getting power to it when the key is on.
I called Pensacola Diesel back, and they are sending me a new IP. This has been a real pain, but at least I got good customer service.
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Maybe after I get it running again I can work on that. Ok, now it wont start at all. I have good fuel flow all the way to the IP, but just a drip coming out. A very smll drip at that. I checked the fuel kill at the top of the IP, and I'm getting power to it when the key is on.
I called Pensacola Diesel back, and they are sending me a new IP. This has been a real pain, but at least I got good customer service.
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