Hi Folks,

I'm thinking of buying a 1993 Ford Ranger XLT with a V6 and auto transmission. I want to pull a sailboat and trailer that will likely approach 40000 ilbs. I haven't found much on the web to know for certain whether this vehicle is sufficient. I know the new models don't necessarily have the same capacity, so I don't have a reference. Does anyone know?

Ralph

 

Welcome to FTE! Thanks for joining us in the Towing forum!

Here's a link to Ford's specsheet for the current Ranger models. As you can see, a lot depends on the transmission and axle ratio. While you're looking that over, someone else with similiar towing experience might come along with some helpful advice.

Scott

 

Thank you for the warm welcome!

That link for specs is very helpful. Thanks so much. Now, I'll have a better idea of what to look for.

Ralph

 

I hope that the 40000 lbs in your statement is a typo, and that your title is right.

40000 lbs, you may need a semi tractor!

The 93' year model, I think that you'll find that the tow specs for that year will be a bit different than the link Horsepuller showed. I'd check out the SPECS link on the right for years that may be a bit closer to your year of ranger.

 

I can't answer the Ranger's rated tow capacity, but even if it's rated high enough, you want to consider how well-behaved the rig will be.

First thing you want to make sure is that the trailer has good, functioning brakes. I hauled a 2000 lb boat (probably just under 3000 w/trailer, gas, etc) with a 96 S-10 extended cab (hey, don't shoot me yet, it just got replaced with a 97 F-350 crew cab long bed PSD!) and I quickly installed surge brakes. Big difference in my stress level. Shorter, straighter stops, and no signs the trailer was getting antsy and about to get out of its lane.

Second, consider the trailer's center of mass height. If the boat has a fixed keel and sits high on the trailer, it's going to want to sway and rock even under good conditions. Add a passing semi, crosswind, pothole, or idiot cutting you off, and you could have an adventure. If the boat sits high, you may want a heavier truck to control any unruliness.

Third, look at number of axles and axle-coupler distance. Double axle supposedly tracks better (no personal experience, but that's what the literature and all opinions I've heard say), and long axle-coupler distances are definitely more stable.

Overall, heavier, more stable truck better resists trailer instabilities. My boat sat low on a longish single axle trailer, truck had long wheelbase and sat low. Good stable combination that didn't require white-knuckle concentration.

Every 2 wd Ranger I've seen sits higher than that S-10, on about the same track width. That means less stability to start with. 4wd sits higher and will be even less stable. You're towing more mass, and the trailer may be less stable.

You may want to consider more truck. You may be perfectly OK with the Ranger under all conditions, or you may only be OK until pothole, idiot, wind, semi, etc. starts the trailer dancing and then yanking the truck around. The Ranger should be more than adequate in terms of power; it's controling the trailer that I would take a good look at.

Admittedly, I'm probably overcautious; I live in the Washington DC area (lots of people, and a disproportionate share drive like idiots) and tow 40 to 50 miles each way along beltway, interstates, and strip mall zones. I like being able to maintain control without constant concentration, and easily maintaining control when something adverse happens.

Take a good look, make an informed decision, and be careful.

 

Thanks Superrangerman2002. The specs link doesn't go back to '93 unfortunately. I checked the oldest yr. there - '97 I think. I know, that different specs aside, the more recent model years tend to boast higher capacity. I'm not sure it's warranted. Since it's cutting it close, I know I'll need to be certain. The newer specs do at least point me in the right general direction

Paddler, you hit the nail on the head. Previous experience with truck blow by has given me the exact problems you describe, albeit with an even smaller tow vehicle. Flat, smooth highway was fine driven slowly. Of course, I can't always count on those conditions. It's a fixed keel sailboat on a double axle trailer with electric brakes and stabilizer bars. Ideally, I should purchase a longer, heavy truck with a V8.

However, I don't think I can bear the gas consumption! Canadian fuel prices are even higher than U.S. When in the U.S., our looney doesn't go far! It will be my general purpose transportation too. So I was thinking of the Ranger as a compromise. Perhaps a safer bet would be a 4 litre V6 with the right axle, in a longer, bigger truck. Being my first foray into a truck purchase, I don't know what that would be. Any favourite options I should consider from the Ford line?

Ralph

 

Ah ha! The 2000 FORD F-150 specs list a 4.2 V6 and three different axles. If I could get an older yr. with the larger cab to boot, I may be a happy sailor. The specs don't list max towing weight, but I'm sure one of the motor/axle combos should work, so long as I'm not tackling mountains.

Ralph

 

I have pulled trailors that weigh up to 6000 lbs. with my Mazda(rebadged ranger) without problems.

 

RPS, the trailer sounds like it's set up to behave well. Double axle with stabilizer bars, should track nice & true, and have less sway than a single axle. Double axle should also give less pitching (up/down) force on the hitch over bumps & dips- won't cause the truck's rear to bounce.

Electric brakes should give good, proportionate braking in a panic stop. Plus, if the trailer starts to sway, a tap on the manual button on the controller should calm it right down. Surge brakes don't have that option.

If the trailer tongue is fairly long, resulting in long coupler-to-axle distance, you're even more ahead.

Downside is you've got a high center of gravity and a lot of windage.

Some things to conside on the Ranger:
**Extended cab = longer wheelbase, better stability.
**4wd, oversize tires, offroad tires, & lift kits result in higher center of gravity & usually squishier/sloppier suspension, reducing stability.
**Good shocks improve stability. Coil-over shocks or overload springs should also help, but may reduce everyday driving comfort.
**Sway damper (hydraulic cylinder angled between bumper and tongue) may also be a help; I've seen them advertised but have not seen any in use.
**Remember the weight of the "extras" you'll be carrying in boat & truck- fuel, food, beer, fishing gear, people, etc.
**Weight distribution matters. Weight in the truck should be as far forward as possible. Weight in the boat or on the trailer itself generally should go over the axles and as low as possible. BUT- some rigs have distinct preferences for tongue weight. 5 to 10% is general rule, but you may find a notably better result by playing around within that range. My jet ski trailer gets a harmonic vibration between 60 and 65 mph when loaded normally; rig isn't heavy enough for that to be a handling problem, but I'm worried about the vibration breaking something or loosening bolts. For short trips, I avoid that speed range. For longer trips, I keep the nose light- ski's fuel tank as empty as possible, and things I normally keep in the bow storage go in the truck. Result is no harmonic at any speed, from very little change in the tongue weight.

If the Ranger is long wheelbase and stock height, I suspect you're OK with this trailer. Sounds like it should behave very well, and some not-too-expensive hardware and loading tricks can get you better behavior. Of course, slowing down is the cheapest solution! Long, wide, low, and heavy is better in a tow vehicle- but the "ultimate" won't be much fun for everyday use. "Good enough" is what you're looking for.

Only way to know for sure is to hook the load up and take it for a controlled test drive. Try stopping on a bumpy downhill- but make sure you have a safe runout in case you have to get off the brakes. Over 45 mph in reasonable traffic should give you a good idea how it will handle highway speeds. On a wide, deserted road, gently move the steering wheel back and forth and see how much sway that induces.

It would be good to know what kind of 6 klb load Matt is pulling. His experience indicates you won't be underpowered, but 6 klb loads can have wildly different characteristics. A load of steel in the bottom of a long wheelbase, double-axle trailer will behave much better than the same weight of haybales piled high on a short single-axle. Unless someone has a very similar load, we're all making educated guesses.

 

as long as you dont try to break speed limits you should be fine with the 4.0 ranger.. Dont get a 4.2 f150 its based on the 3.8 and has numerous issues.. not the least of which is throwing rods.
the 4.0 ohc engine is a real tractor engine low rpm torque etc.

I would be more worried with how the previous people took care of the truck.. your transmission might be ready to flake out etc.
esp on one that old. I know you can get very good deals on late 90's rangers maybe you should consider newer?
say a 96-98?

Rand

 

I have pulled haybales and I don't know how much they weighed. I have pulled right at 6000 lbs of galvanized tin and sheet steel when combined with the weight of a hevy equipment trailor. I can pull my Mach 1 no problem. I pulled a 59 International Travelall(lots of heavy sheetmetal on that thing). Probably the heaviest pull was a 58 International 3/4 ton 4x4 pickup with a channel iron flatbed and an extremely heavy iron boom on the back. It will pull it fine, I just have to be careful and stay at a reasonalble speed, anticipate stops,etc..

 

RPS, post you axle ratio and engine size and I will look in my 93 owners manual.