Won't Start 8(
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2010
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From: Orlando, Fl
Won't Start 8(
1972 f100 302 3speed
Truck ran fine before i started working on it...installed new intake and edelbrock carb, wires, cap, rotor, plugs but one, coil, heater hoses, thermostat, upgrade to throttle cable and pedal....i started it up before i put the throttle cable on and it sounded great, then i finish putting the cable and pedal on then just buttoned up everything organizing some wiring n such....started it up and it sounded horrible....seemed like the plugs were mixed up, looked like one was mixed up, triple checked everything and now it does a congested half fire then nothing. there is power to the coil and i checked spark plug #1 and its sparking, seems to be getting fuel. in the photo on the left wires 2 n 3 are not in order in my little zip tie separator thing but their going to the right cylinder...Thanks
Truck ran fine before i started working on it...installed new intake and edelbrock carb, wires, cap, rotor, plugs but one, coil, heater hoses, thermostat, upgrade to throttle cable and pedal....i started it up before i put the throttle cable on and it sounded great, then i finish putting the cable and pedal on then just buttoned up everything organizing some wiring n such....started it up and it sounded horrible....seemed like the plugs were mixed up, looked like one was mixed up, triple checked everything and now it does a congested half fire then nothing. there is power to the coil and i checked spark plug #1 and its sparking, seems to be getting fuel. in the photo on the left wires 2 n 3 are not in order in my little zip tie separator thing but their going to the right cylinder...Thanks
Last edited by Hamburgerfella; Mar 12, 2011 at 04:18 PM. Reason: better title
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Junior User
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From: Orlando, Fl
Im getting a strong spark from the coil, but when i test each wire they seem to be very random when they spark....sometimes its a strong pulse or the engine will turn over for a few seconds before it sparks if any....i didn't replace the points, they look clean and everything is in there place.....fuel looks good and ive even tried starter spray just to see if it made a difference and it didnt....
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From: Orlando, Fl
I dont know what the deal is now, but im not getting any spark what so ever, i tried putting the old cap and rotor with no change, I was test lighting around and with the key on the neg and pos of the coil both light up, is the neg side supposed to do that?
Hotshot
Joined: May 2004
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From: The hills of No. Calif.
First thing I'd do is clean and gap the points. They may look fine, but points can be touchy and a little bit of crud between them can screw everything up. Then, with the points set in between the lobes of the cam so they're closed, take the hight tension lead from the coil off of the distributor cap and hold it close to a ground, (preferably using a spark plug wire puller or insulated pliers) then with your thumbnail open the points and allow them to snap closed several times. You should get a nice blue spark each time.
This will also tell you if there's a short somewhere in the system as the you can hear the spark jumping someplace it's not supposed to if there is a short. Hook the coil wire back up to the cap and do it again while watching inside the cap, the spark will take the path of least resistance. And check the low tension leads to the coil and from the coil to the distributor to make sure nothing is grounding out.
This will also tell you if there's a short somewhere in the system as the you can hear the spark jumping someplace it's not supposed to if there is a short. Hook the coil wire back up to the cap and do it again while watching inside the cap, the spark will take the path of least resistance. And check the low tension leads to the coil and from the coil to the distributor to make sure nothing is grounding out.
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From: Orlando, Fl
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Hotshot
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 12,170
Likes: 5
From: The hills of No. Calif.
No, the distributor is self-grounding. No ground wire needed, especially if the clamp bolt is tight. If the condenser is bad you either won't get any spark at all, or you'll get a spark so hot at the points that they'll burn out. Yellow spark isn't generally a very strong spark, should be more like blue...
I wonder if this line I quoted from your original post has anything to do with the problem:
"...then just buttoned up everything organizing some wiring n such....started it up and it sounded horrible..."
I'd take a close look at the wiring you "organized" to see if there's a bad connection or short in there somewhere. Since it ran well before you did that, it makes me suspicious that moving that wiring around broke something loose.
I wonder if this line I quoted from your original post has anything to do with the problem:
"...then just buttoned up everything organizing some wiring n such....started it up and it sounded horrible..."
I'd take a close look at the wiring you "organized" to see if there's a bad connection or short in there somewhere. Since it ran well before you did that, it makes me suspicious that moving that wiring around broke something loose.
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2010
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From: Orlando, Fl
Yeah i just grouped a few things together, but ill defiantly check it over again....in my picture #1 on the distributor is correct right? a book list a typical ford v8 from my year, but #1 is on the opposite side, but everything else shows that #1 is in the right spot....Thanks i feel im getting closer
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Junior User
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From: Orlando, Fl
My wires were ran different compared to your diagram, i got mine from a Chilton's book, tried yours and it backfires out the carb every 2 seconds....maybe its working but it's flooded from all the tinkering?
Hotshot
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 12,170
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From: The hills of No. Calif.
Did you make sure that the crankshaft was set on TDC of the compression stroke for the #1 cylinder, and then check the position of the rotor to see if it's anything like the diagram?
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2010
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From: Orlando, Fl
I switched the wires back, im going to check the rotor and TDC, right now its wanting to fire a little....i feel like my points n condenser are weak, when i was testing the points it seemed like it was a little inconsistent
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Junior User
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From: Orlando, Fl
rotor matches with plug 1, i went ahead and replaced the points and condenser, the points were in worse shape than i thought, hoping this was the problem, tested the points and it was way more consistent then put everything back on and no change......just turns over, if you pump it a little it starts to make a noise like it wants to start....im going to go through everything again i guess