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Mar 19, 2011 | 10:56 AM

#31

williamwilliam

Laughing Gas

Joined: Jul 2003

Posts: 884

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From: Bassett Virginia

I could be wrong, but going back at your first post and looking at your picture, it seems you have 2 spark plugs wires in the wrong place. If you have you wiring in the correct place on your wire holders on your valve covers, you need to switch your number 2 and 3 wires and they are backwards.

Correct firing order is 1 5 4 2 6 3 7 8
Looks like you have 1 5 4 3 6 2 7 8

At least when I traced the firing order in your picture, thats the way it looks to me. Try that and see what happens.

****NEVER MIND, I SEE WHERE YOU SAID IT WAS RIGHT, SORRY!

Mar 19, 2011 | 11:51 AM

#32

TigerDan

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Joined: May 2004

Posts: 12,170

Likes: 5

From: The hills of No. Calif.

I just went back and changed the pic I posted earlier. I took another look at it, and it had some weird firing order on it...I guess I didn't look closely enough at it the first time, sorry. The new pic is correct, and nice and clear.

I never did get an answer on whether or not the distributor was removed and reinstalled. I'm a bit confused here, because the symptoms described so far make me think that it is indeed 180 out of time, that is to say that even though the rotor points to #1 and the #1 piston is at TDC, it could be TDC of the exhaust stroke rather than the compression stroke. But since you said it ran okay before you cleaned up the wiring, that pretty much shoots that theory full of holes. You didn't by any chance pull the distributor while cleaning up the wiring...?

Mar 20, 2011 | 01:09 AM

#33

Hamburgerfella

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Joined: Dec 2010

Posts: 54

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From: Orlando, Fl

Thanks for all the help so far....I never removed the distributor and it was firmly in place...Im going to look everything over again Sunday and try to make the problem more clear as well as checking a few more things...i did install a new alternator during one of the annoyed at not starting days, would that have any effect on the ignition? How can the distributor get 180 degrees out of place?

Mar 20, 2011 | 01:21 AM

#34

TigerDan

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Joined: May 2004

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From: The hills of No. Calif.

If you never removed it, then it can't...so that's a dead end.

Mar 20, 2011 | 08:37 PM

#35

Hamburgerfella

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From: Orlando, Fl

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9; mso-style-qformat:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin-top:0in; mso-para-margin-right:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:10.0pt; mso-para-margin-left:0in; line-height:115%; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:11.0pt; font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;} </style> <![endif]--> (1) Double checked points n such…with a voltmeter and key on (-) on coil to distributor tested 12 volts when the points were open and 0 volts when closed.

(2) Key on and voltmeter on (+) side of coil it tested 12 volts with points open and 6 volts when the points were closed.

(3) With distributor cap off and cranking the engine I could see the points repeatedly sparking in the right spots.

(4) Starting from the right side small terminal starter relay the (greenish) wire was almost completely melted and corroded going to firewall and halfway under dash with some damage still showing. It came back out through the firewall 2 holes up from around the gas pedal hole. Joins what looks to be a red resistor wire they are both crimped together and continue their journey to the (+) side of the coil. It looks like they were cut to bypass the 3 prong connector. Haven’t traced back the red maybe resistor wire yet, what does the resistor wire look like. From a classic trucks book the greenish wire should be the resistor wire. Then from the left side small terminal of the starter relay a wire goes to the ignition switch. From the starter relay while cranking the engine all the terminals were around 10-11 volts.

Carb and linkage looks good.....I can hear the engine slightly trying to fire up, Is my spark very weak? What about the resistor wire?

Mar 20, 2011 | 08:45 PM

#36

TigerDan

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Joined: May 2004

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From: The hills of No. Calif.

Try this: Disconnect the 12V hot wire from the + side of the coil, then run a 12V jumper wire right from the battery to that coil terminal and see if it then fires when you crank it. If it does, then you definitely have a wiring problem between the switch and the coil, which it sounds like you do...

Mar 21, 2011 | 01:56 PM

#37

FECruzer69

Senior User

Joined: Jul 2010

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Since you have 0 volts at the coil (-) terminal with the points closed it would appear that your points are good. Voltage at the coil (+) terminal is too high,should only be 6-8 volts. From what you described it sounds like your resistor wire has been bypassed. You will need to use the resistor wire or install an external ballast resistor otherwise you will go through points faster than a baby goes through diapers. The resistor wire is the fat pink or red wire (usually has softer insulation than the other wires) going into the three terminal connector from under the dash. The other two wires in this connector should be the oil pressure sender and temperature sender wires. I'm still suspicious of your wiring harness. I would connect a 12 volt test light to the (+) terminal of the coil and leave it connected, while moving the wiring around, watch the light to see if it flickers or goes out. Also while the test light is connected to the coil try jiggling the key around in the ignition switch to make sure you dont have a problem with your switch. The light should stay lit, not flicker.

Mar 24, 2011 | 07:20 PM

#38

Hamburgerfella

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Junior User

Joined: Dec 2010

Posts: 54

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From: Orlando, Fl

Still tinkering with it...replaced the resistor wire, Key on (+) coil is 7 volts, while starting its around 10 volts....getting spark but its slow and random, jumped a wire from the battery straight to the coil with no change