door seals
#1
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#3
That is typical. The replacement rubbers are always stiff. The best thing to do is leave the doors shut a couple of days and let them squish. You may find it easier to close the doors if you move the door strikers out just a tad, and then as the doors get easier to close, move them back in until you get the door fit you want. Basically, that way you're sneaking up on the 'squish' a little at a time, and not killing your latches while you do it.
#4
That is typical. The replacement rubbers are always stiff. The best thing to do is leave the doors shut a couple of days and let them squish. You may find it easier to close the doors if you move the door strikers out just a tad, and then as the doors get easier to close, move them back in until you get the door fit you want. Basically, that way you're sneaking up on the 'squish' a little at a time, and not killing your latches while you do it.
#5
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Littleton, New Hampshire
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That door rubber (mine was from LMC Truck) is harder than you might think. I put mine on in the fall, left the door closed all winter and still had trouble closing the door next spring. You will have to adjust the strikers...I did! I'm still hoping someone will eventually make a hollow core door seal for Bonus Builts...
#7
That door rubber (mine was from LMC Truck) is harder than you might think. I put mine on in the fall, left the door closed all winter and still had trouble closing the door next spring. You will have to adjust the strikers...I did! I'm still hoping someone will eventually make a hollow core door seal for Bonus Builts...
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#8
I used a peel and stick hollow bulb seal that I got from Pep Boys. It's pricey, but it works beautifully. It takes a couple packs to do a door.
#9
ok
That is typical. The replacement rubbers are always stiff. The best thing to do is leave the doors shut a couple of days and let them squish. You may find it easier to close the doors if you move the door strikers out just a tad, and then as the doors get easier to close, move them back in until you get the door fit you want. Basically, that way you're sneaking up on the 'squish' a little at a time, and not killing your latches while you do it.
#10
Did you rebuild your door latches? If not, then it's likely the round spring on the door latch that is the culprit, and/or the spring that goes on the inside latch door handle area. Both are available through the repro parts places, but you'll need to take out the latch and replace the springs.
#11
omg
Did you rebuild your door latches? If not, then it's likely the round spring on the door latch that is the culprit, and/or the spring that goes on the inside latch door handle area. Both are available through the repro parts places, but you'll need to take out the latch and replace the springs.
#12
#13
sorry for highjacking.Do you guys recommend stock door seals or the ones Randy Jack mentioned.
my doors are driving me nuts!!!!I already ordered the antirattle kit from truck and car.com since I hear their stuff was pretty good.
Has anyone ordered door seals from this company since I already have ana account with them.
Thanks
my doors are driving me nuts!!!!I already ordered the antirattle kit from truck and car.com since I hear their stuff was pretty good.
Has anyone ordered door seals from this company since I already have ana account with them.
Thanks
#14