I got rubber on the doors. BIG DIFF. Now i have to slam the doors. I'm hoping it will get easyer with time. It makes it easyer if i let the window down a bit.

 

Dale,they will relax with heat/time.By the end of your summer,they'll be as if they've been there forever.

 

That is typical. The replacement rubbers are always stiff. The best thing to do is leave the doors shut a couple of days and let them squish. You may find it easier to close the doors if you move the door strikers out just a tad, and then as the doors get easier to close, move them back in until you get the door fit you want. Basically, that way you're sneaking up on the 'squish' a little at a time, and not killing your latches while you do it.

 

I couldn't have said it better myself. Great tip and exactly right.

 

That door rubber (mine was from LMC Truck) is harder than you might think. I put mine on in the fall, left the door closed all winter and still had trouble closing the door next spring. You will have to adjust the strikers...I did! I'm still hoping someone will eventually make a hollow core door seal for Bonus Builts...

 

Not to hijack this thread but who makes the best seal kits for these trucks?

 

I used Dennis C.'s, same story. It's been three years in the desert sun and with only the top and rear weatherstrip on, still tough to shut. If I put on the front piece, I'm not sure I could even get it to the first step on the latch. They are made with too stiff of rubber.

 

MidFifty makes a hollow bulb one-piece seal for the F100's (53-56). It gets excellent reviews from many members here. They are probably working on one for the F1's.

I used a peel and stick hollow bulb seal that I got from Pep Boys. It's pricey, but it works beautifully. It takes a couple packs to do a door.

 

OK Wayne THANKS FOR THE INFO. Now what can i do about the outside handles not springing back all the way ? Cause the door will not shut if the outside handle isn't perfectly horizonal with the door. They are new by the way.

 

Did you rebuild your door latches? If not, then it's likely the round spring on the door latch that is the culprit, and/or the spring that goes on the inside latch door handle area. Both are available through the repro parts places, but you'll need to take out the latch and replace the springs.

 

I was hoping that wasn't the trouble. I'm going to take the panels off and grease them down first. I blasted and painted them and hope the paint is the trouble.

 

If the handle is sagging, then it's likely the spring(s). If the handles weren't working properly, i.e. getting stuck or binding, then the springs would need to be lubricated. It's likely the springs.

 

sorry for highjacking.Do you guys recommend stock door seals or the ones Randy Jack mentioned.
my doors are driving me nuts!!!!I already ordered the antirattle kit from truck and car.com since I hear their stuff was pretty good.
Has anyone ordered door seals from this company since I already have ana account with them.
Thanks

 

I'm surprised no one mentioned Softseal.com. They have hollow rubber seals and your door will close fine the first time. I had some stock rubber ones and ended up peeling those new ones off and throwing them away.

 

I wonder if you can get a softseal thats the same contour of the stock 51 seal.