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Seen alot about removing the bolts from the manifold just wondering the best replacement after you remove them, what does everyone use. Seen post all over and it seems that very few go to Ford to get the replacements. I heard a slight tick when I started the engine the other day and then a few minutes ago, so for the hell of it I rechecked the manifold bolts, sure enough cylinders 2 & 3 the bottom bolts are broken off, good thing (if there is one) is that they are flush with the manifold so there is some bolt to work with. But if I am going after those 2 then I will just do the whole project, no sense replacing just those 2. Any insight from people that have done would be great, Thanks
I would just replace those 2, no point in opening a can of worms. I learned a long time ago; the less you touch on fix-it job the better off you are. The rest will probably never break and there is not a big prep issue to fix one if it does.
Stock replacements are what I used. I have Riffraff ceramic-coated manifolds...
They only call for like 38ft lbs of tq IIRC - shouldn't be toooo hard to come out. Spray'em with Blaster or Kroil while still HOT a few times before ya get ready to take'em out!!
on edit: I forget everyone here doesn't have a 7.3........
I replaced all of mine in November after finding several broken. I used Seafoam Deep Creep over several days and it really helped. I wouldn't leave any there - I ended up with several others breaking as soon as I hit them with a wrench. Those would have broken pretty quick if I had left them and it was a lot of work just getting the fender liners out and getting access to the bolts.
I replaced all of mine in November after finding several broken. I used Seafoam Deep Creep over several days and it really helped. I wouldn't leave any there - I ended up with several others breaking as soon as I hit them with a wrench. Those would have broken pretty quick if I had left them and it was a lot of work just getting the fender liners out and getting access to the bolts.
Exactly why I wouldn't have touched them. They are not going to automatically break.
I would just replace those 2, no point in opening a can of worms. I learned a long time ago; the less you touch on fix-it job the better off you are. The rest will probably never break and there is not a big prep issue to fix one if it does.
At times I would agree with you but they all look crappy, and if I am going to pull it into the garage and pull fender well cover off I am going to roll the sleeves up and replace them all. If I replace just the one that are broken and something happen to the others in a few days or wekks I'll feel like--I told you so-- still need to know what people have replaced them with, Thanks
if I am going to pull it into the garage and pull fender well cover off I am going to roll the sleeves up and replace them all.
Agreed! Two broke on their own, no reason to think the others won't do it too. Its quite a chore to get it tore down enough to get in there, plus you gotta take everything loose anyway to get the manifold off, so you may as well replace them while you're in there.
Besides, if they're anything like my 5.4L, the "good" studs will come out during removal (as opposed to just the nut coming off and the studs staying in the head). Like this:
For the ones that are broke off, with some stud still sticking out, this tool works great for those. The tool is KD #41762.
I don't have any advice on replacement studs. I used the bolts that came with my headers. The thread size is M8-1.25 so if you can find some stainless hex head bolts the right length that would be good. Do you have a Fastenal nearby? They can get them. If not, you can order them from McMaster Carr online.
Exactly why I wouldn't have touched them. They are not going to automatically break.
how did they get broken off in the first place then? the rest WILL automatically break off. why not knock it all out at once and not have to worry about it? jmo...........
i've been dreading this. after getting lucky with my first 2 V10s and having not broken studs. my '02 has about 3 on the driver side busted. real nice tick when cold..but fine when warm. i'm going to pay to have this one done because idk how bad its going to be.
how did they get broken off in the first place then? the rest WILL automatically break off. why not knock it all out at once and not have to worry about it? jmo...........
Because they were to weak ones and the rest will probably never break.
(Unless you put a wrench to them).
Because they were to weak ones and the rest will probably never break.
(Unless you put a wrench to them).
Maybe it's just me but that logic just doesn't seem logical.......?
It would seem more logical that the ones that have already broke are nothing more than the first ones to break, the others will fail in due time if let be, after all they are all identical and in the same exact service under the same conditions. Also how exactly would you go about removing the snapped off ones without removing the rest and the manifold? I haven't done this job yet (lucky!) but a lot of folks that have report having to weld a nut onto the stub to get a good enough bite on it to back it out of the head. That to me sounds like the manifold has to come off, at least with my skill level of welding.
I'm not trying to call you out on this but it just seems counter intuitive to go to all the trouble getting in there to just do a few and not get them all. At least then you shouldn't have to worry about it for another 6 or 7 years. (If you use factory replacement studs....).
[quote=WE3ZS;10084438]Maybe it's just me but that logic just doesn't seem logical.......?
It would seem more logical that the ones that have already broke are nothing more than the first ones to break, the others will fail in due time if let be, after all they are all identical and in the same exact service under the same conditions.
Just what I was thinking not sure how or when they broke, probably with the previous owner, or maybe it was when I picked it up and drove it the 3 hours to home. Either way they are broken and I can not see doing all the prep work to get at them and not replace all of them. As was stated "then he won't need to worry for 6-7 years". Plus I don't know if it's just me but if I just replaced the broken ones, everytime I started the truck I would wonder if this is the time more will break, don't that would be a good feeling
It seems very logical to me that one or 2 can break and the rest will never break. If you consider that 99% of the ex's have never broken one including mine, there is no reason for the rest to go. Also; it's probably the same few that always break on every engine. In some cases when there is a design flaw it is consistent throughout but I doubt very much if this is one of them and you won't see me hassling with all the good ones for nothing and prompting them to break to boot. It's my many years of being a mechanic that tells me you should only fix the broken ones here.
Maybe it's just me but that logic just doesn't seem logical.......?
It would seem more logical that the ones that have already broke are nothing more than the first ones to break, the others will fail in due time if let be, after all they are all identical and in the same exact serviceunder the same conditions.
Just what I was thinking not sure how or when they broke, probably with the previous owner, or maybe it was when I picked it up and drove it the 3 hours to home. Either way they are broken and I can not see doing all the prep work to get at them and not replace all of them. As was stated "then he won't need to worry for 6-7 years". Plus I don't know if it's just me but if I just replaced the broken ones, everytime I started the truck I would wonder if this is the time more will break, don't that would be a good feeling
Not necessarily and it's not like it is going to blow up if another one breaks. I would never touch the rest of them. Also, the manifold doesn't have to come off. If I had the manifold off I would replace all on that side.
Which ones are breaking on you guys' trucks? It looks to me like they rust were the nut is and since they aren't bolts a crack starts in one of the thread grooves and they expand from the heat but don't contract at the same rate as the manifold. They probably should have used bolts.
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