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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 01:52 PM
  #16  
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I don't think you can properly remove broken studs without removing the manifold!

So if the manifold has to removed to remove broken studs, replacing them all just makes sense!
 
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 05:12 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by cbradford
I don't think you can properly remove broken studs without removing the manifold!

So if the manifold has to removed to remove broken studs, replacing them all just makes sense!
I agreed already on that but I have read in here that you can leave the manifold on. It probably envolves a right angle drill with a reverse twist drill bit (if you can get one) and/or an EZ-out after using a regular bit, or (if the stud is long enough) a small pair of vice grips (the mini ones). Once the stud is broken it is just sitting in the head with no rust issue on that end.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 07:51 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by EXv10
It seems very logical to me that one or 2 can break and the rest will never break. If you consider that 99% of the ex's have never broken one including mine, there is no reason for the rest to go. Also; it's probably the same few that always break on every engine. In some cases when there is a design flaw it is consistent throughout but I doubt very much if this is one of them and you won't see me hassling with all the good ones for nothing and prompting them to break to boot. It's my many years of being a mechanic that tells me you should only fix the broken ones here.

Show me the data that backs up your 99% of excursion v10's have never had an exhaust stud break!
 
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by indyF-350psd
Show me the data that backs up your 99% of excursion v10's have never had an exhaust stud break!
Just assuming but show me data that says they have.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 08:04 PM
  #20  
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Funny how nobody in here ever agrees with me but I also realize that inexperienced people always err on the way too cautious side.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 08:44 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by EXv10
Just assuming but show me data that says they have.
we all know what that does!

Originally Posted by EXv10
Funny how nobody in here ever agrees with me but I also realize that inexperienced people always err on the way too cautious side.
funny how with all your experience nobody in here ever agrees with you!
 
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 09:23 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by indyF-350psd
we all know what that does!

What does?

funny how with all your experience nobody in here ever agrees with you!
Isn't it though? ...................another comment from the peanut gallery.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 11:11 PM
  #23  
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I was looking at my motor earlier thinking: replacing these studs will be a piece of cake... right after I pull the motor!
 
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 07:43 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Treker58
Did you replace them with Ford or get something else?
I did not use OEM - I went with standard exhaust bolts. Not sure exactly what brand they are but I didn't want studs again even if they are supposed to be improved.

Originally Posted by EXv10
Exactly why I wouldn't have touched them. They are not going to automatically break.
So- I guess the 4 or 5 which had broken didn't automatically break either? Maybe you wouldn't touch them - but you will have to eventually. This is a known problem with the studs Ford used and it has happened to me on a 5.4 Expy and now this. It's just not a good use of time to get everything out of the way to do the actual repair and then leave half of it undone. To fully extract the broken ones the manifold had to come off since they were flush with the surface. So... how exactly would I repair without then removing the remaining studs?

To each their own - I'm not going to try and convince you what the correct way to handle the repair would be.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 07:55 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by tdappleman
I did not use OEM - I went with standard exhaust bolts. Not sure exactly what brand they are but I didn't want studs again even if they are supposed to be improved.



So- I guess the 4 or 5 which had broken didn't automatically break either? Maybe you wouldn't touch them - but you will have to eventually. This is a known problem with the studs Ford used and it has happened to me on a 5.4 Expy and now this. It's just not a good use of time to get everything out of the way to do the actual repair and then leave half of it undone. To fully extract the broken ones the manifold had to come off since they were flush with the surface. So... how exactly would I repair without then removing the remaining studs?


To each their own - I'm not going to try and convince you what the correct way to handle the repair would be.


I also had the same problem with my 97 Expy's 5.4, have not had the problem with the V10 in the Ex yet, but it an 05, garaged and not driven much.

I guess you need to have actually done the repair to know what works and the correct way to handle the repair!

So I'm with you tdappleman!
 
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 10:51 AM
  #26  
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I'd replace them all! Sure you can be a easy cheesy guy and just do the bare minimum and hope to get by.

I take care of a fleet of trucks and have learned the hard way many time to do the COMPLETE job the FIRST time! If you half *** it the first time you will be just doing the same damn job again not long later. I go for the whole deal the first time, get it done, and not worry about it again.

Our trucks very very rarely break down on the road. Normally when I bring one of the trucks in to work on it for whatever problem it is having I will inspect the whole truck and do ALL the work it needs or looks like it will need in the near future. I do everything completely, never half assing anything and it pays off big time!

The last truck I did was out 94 7.3 IDI turbo diesel. It needed a clutch. While it was in the shop I could have just replaced the clutch disc and sent it on its way but I didn't. The truck got new: rear main seal, flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, oil pan, oil cooler, oil pump, U-joints threwout, rear end cover, ALL new fluids, and brake lines.

If I would have just replaced the clutch the rear main seal probably would have soaked the new clutch with oil and ruined it making me do the job again. The two piece flywheel would have came apart, oil pan would have rusted threw by now so I would have had to replace it now being an even bigger job because the trans is in the way of pulling the oil pan out. Oil cooler would have rusted out and caused yet another day in the shop and another oil and coolant change, ETC. My point is do the complete job right the first time or you will be doing it again and again.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 11:31 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Snowseeker
If you half *** it the first time you will be just doing the same damn job again not long later.
Exactly!

Somehow there's never time to do it right, but there's always time to do it twice.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 12:36 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by 1975StroppeBaja
Exactly!

Somehow there's never time to do it right, but there's always time to do it twice.

Thats for sure seems the the few times that I cut a corner it came back on me, never a major mess but still had to do it over. Stopped cutting corners years ago because of that. And as Snowseeker said if your in there and something else needs attention"do it", no sense tearing back into it again if you are all ready there
 
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 01:26 PM
  #29  
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Taking one or two out with an EZ-out is much easier and those were the weak ones. Again; which ones are you guys breaking?
 
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Old Mar 14, 2011 | 07:43 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by EXv10
Taking one or two out with an EZ-out is much easier and those were the weak ones. Again; which ones are you guys breaking?

Mine are on cylinders 2 and 3
 
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