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302 Fuel Consumption

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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 12:39 PM
  #16  
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ymeski56
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Originally Posted by Brian_W
Ok... Here's all the digits I got, should I be getting 3 digit codes and 2 digit codes? Here's what I found.

3 3 4 3 3 4 - 1 - 3 3 4 4 5 2 3 3 4 4 5 2

So I am guessing 334 / 334 / 1 / 33 / 44 / 52 / 33 / 44 / 52 ????
33 = (for trucks) EGR valve not closing properly/ might explain o2 always lean
Remove /clean EGR valve & EGR portway's on air intake manifold/ check integrity of EGR diaphragm & EGR for proper function.

52 = probably because you didn't move the steering wheel at the appropriate time during the scan.

44 = thermactor air system fault. check connections to thermactors


$22.77 = cut's a lotta crap!
 
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 12:48 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by ymeski56
33 = (for trucks) EGR valve not closing properly/ might explain o2 always lean
Remove /clean EGR valve & EGR portway's on air intake manifold/ check integrity of EGR diaphragm & EGR for proper function.

52 = probably because you didn't move the steering wheel at the appropriate time during the scan.

44 = thermactor air system fault. check connections to thermactors


$22.77 = cut's a lotta crap!
Thank you so much, I will be ordering me one of those from the website you sent to me.

44 = thermactor air system fault. check connections to thermactors... I am not familiar with this? Where is it located?
 
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 01:07 PM
  #18  
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ymeski56
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Those would be the "TAB" & "TAD" Solenoids.
Assuming I guessed correctly, deciphering your code string. I wouldn't spend any money on parts till you get your Code Reader & retest. Probably the best "Andrew Jackson" you ever spent on your truck! (If anybody else made sense of the number string, feel free to jump in!)

 
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 02:02 PM
  #19  
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I appreciate all your help and assistance.

I checked the EGR Valve out, and it appears "NEW" on the inside. My Father-in-law (who gave me the truck) said the EGR Valve was replaced within the past year.

I have read a few other posts and seen people saying the EGR Position sensor is known to go bad? I have one on a another motor (not currently in a vehicle), should I try swapping that out, since it won't cost me anything for it?

I checked the connections on the TAB & TAD Solenoids, they were clean and tight.

Once again thanks for all your help, and if you think of anything else please let me know. Until then I will have to wait till I get the code reader.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 02:23 PM
  #20  
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ymeski56
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Here's something. When engine is idling at norm op temp, pull the Vac hose off the EGR.
There should be no vacuum from the hose. Possibly a palpitation of air, but no vacuum. If vacuum is present, suggests a problem w/ the EGR Regulator.

33 can be valve mechanical failure or obstruction of the valve seat or regulator providing Vac at the improper time.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 03:21 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by ymeski56
Here's something. When engine is idling at norm op temp, pull the Vac hose off the EGR.
There should be no vacuum from the hose. Possibly a palpitation of air, but no vacuum. If vacuum is present, suggests a problem w/ the EGR Regulator.

33 can be valve mechanical failure or obstruction of the valve seat or regulator providing Vac at the improper time.
There is a VERY FAINT vacuum from the hose. Not a palpitation, but a continuous VERY FAINT vacuum.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 04:44 PM
  #22  
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ymeski56
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Originally Posted by Brian_W
There is a VERY FAINT vacuum from the hose. Not a palpitation, but a continuous VERY FAINT vacuum.
EGR Regulator. http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=43
 
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