I need professional mechanic help...
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
From: Archdale, NC
I need professional mechanic help...
1987 Ford F-150 4x4, 5.0L, manual trans
Starts perfect cold, but won't start at operating temperature.
These are the things I have replaced:
-Battery
-Alternator
-Starter
-Starter Solenoid
-Starter Coil
-Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
-Distributor Cap
-Rotor
-Spark Plugs/Wires
-Fuel Filter
-Air Filter
-EGR Valve
-EGR Vacuum Solenoid
-Heater Core
-All hoses
-Fuses
Is there ANYTHING else I can check or replace that might do the trick? I'm to the point where I may just go buy a "Quick Start" chargeable jumper to just carry with me.
Starts perfect cold, but won't start at operating temperature.
These are the things I have replaced:
-Battery
-Alternator
-Starter
-Starter Solenoid
-Starter Coil
-Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
-Distributor Cap
-Rotor
-Spark Plugs/Wires
-Fuel Filter
-Air Filter
-EGR Valve
-EGR Vacuum Solenoid
-Heater Core
-All hoses
-Fuses
Is there ANYTHING else I can check or replace that might do the trick? I'm to the point where I may just go buy a "Quick Start" chargeable jumper to just carry with me.
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
From: Archdale, NC
It tries to turn over a time or two...starts fine if it sits a couple of hours...saw somewhere else that someone said it could be the Oxygen Sensor? Think so? Oil has leaked all over the connector and its pretty rusted on where it screws into the exhaust...may even be original and never been changed...cant get it to budge at all even after WD-40...
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
From: Archdale, NC
no tellin? says 133k..but the speedometer/odometer is broken..it was sitting in this guys back yard for 4 years when I bought it...lots of rust underneath..
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 40
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These fords are bad about hot starts or my 300 is. Try flushing the cooling system new thermostat.
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2008
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O2 sensor has nothing to do with this problem, the PCM has failsafe modes that allow it to still run the engine even with many sensors completely dead or missing (disconnected). I don't quite understand you tho, is the engine cranking strong when hot and just refuses to actually start, or does it act like the battery's about dead and has no juice to even crank it good?
If it's the first (cranks easy, no but start) then I'd suspect your TFI module is on its way out - due to its mounting on the side of the distributor it soaks up engine heat, and being an electronic device it don't like said heat much, especially if it's got lots of run hours on it. This is actually a common problem, and Ford recognized it as such and addressed it in later models by moving the TFI module from the distributor to a remote-mount heat sink
If it's the first (cranks easy, no but start) then I'd suspect your TFI module is on its way out - due to its mounting on the side of the distributor it soaks up engine heat, and being an electronic device it don't like said heat much, especially if it's got lots of run hours on it. This is actually a common problem, and Ford recognized it as such and addressed it in later models by moving the TFI module from the distributor to a remote-mount heat sink
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,244
Likes: 2
From: Cottage Grove, WI
So does it crank good, and just not fire, or does it crank crappy?
I had this problem with my 95 I6, started fine cold, but if it was hot the truck would turn over, spit sputter and cough, but not start. Turns out I had 2 problems. my fuel pump was weak, so it wasnt getting proper psi to the engine, and there was excess heat around my fuel rail. The heat wrap around the egr pipe had deteriorated and fallen away, and the air injection manifold was leaking, blowing hot compression gasses right onto the fuel rail. The engine was evaporating the fuel before it got to the injectors, and they could not fire vaporized fuel. Replaced the pump, wrapped the EGR pipe, and plugged the air injection ports, and she started right up every time from then on.
I had this problem with my 95 I6, started fine cold, but if it was hot the truck would turn over, spit sputter and cough, but not start. Turns out I had 2 problems. my fuel pump was weak, so it wasnt getting proper psi to the engine, and there was excess heat around my fuel rail. The heat wrap around the egr pipe had deteriorated and fallen away, and the air injection manifold was leaking, blowing hot compression gasses right onto the fuel rail. The engine was evaporating the fuel before it got to the injectors, and they could not fire vaporized fuel. Replaced the pump, wrapped the EGR pipe, and plugged the air injection ports, and she started right up every time from then on.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 385
Likes: 0
From: Oregon
so we're not sure if its a cranking prob or simple no start
Use a hairdryer on stuff like coil and distributor one at a time when it's cold and you KNOW it will start.
After heating something and it won't start, blow it off to cool it with compressed air to confirm heated component failure
Use a hairdryer on stuff like coil and distributor one at a time when it's cold and you KNOW it will start.
After heating something and it won't start, blow it off to cool it with compressed air to confirm heated component failure
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,308
Likes: 1
From: Elyria, OH
If the truck starts cold and is HARD to start hot then i am going to say that your timing is too far advanced. When i say hard to start i mean that the motor acts like the battery is dead and isnt getting enough juice to turn it over like it should. Check timing with spout out and let us know the results