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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 10:48 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by bulla
First one no. But supposedly it was a 15 deg pump housing but all the guts were for my truck. The modded one I'm running now is
Identical to my stock one.
Doesn't the 15 degree HPOP use a different type of gasket? On your modded pump, did you remove the poppet pieces at the hose fittings to the heads? If so, do you have your HPx installed still?

Did you happen to see that post from F350-6(Chris) this past weekend that had a pdf link that explained the different HPOP and reservoir parts through the years? What would happen if the early style housing were used on the later style blocks with the external check valve?

I am just thinking out loud here...
Something is allowing your reservoir to drain and your low oil pressure is abnormal...
 
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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 11:40 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by bulla
Trans doesn't seem to be slipping it just takes forever for my truck to build up enough speed to shift. You could tell me how to check the trans with the ae and I'll do it. I've
Felt a trans slip and it just doesn't feel like it. Frank was it slipping?
I don't have the AE yet, so I'm no help in telling you how to run the test. My truck didn't show much in the signs of "slippage", but over time.. it gradually seemed to be shifting different & not quite as quick as it used to be.. I wasn't really aware I had a problem until I was pulling a mountain with my 5th wheel in tow & I overheated my tranny badly.. But after 2 tranny flushes, I was still able to drive it 1000 miles to Lead Hill with really no problems (empty) I'd have to say the biggest sign I had was my tranny temps were running higher than normal.. Turns out in the end my TC was shot as well as my OD & coast clutches.

I could be way off.. just my thoughts that if the TC is slipping, then the powers not being transfered to the ground thru the tranny ... I looked at your 0-80 video & Franks.. His truck makes the last shift in 6 seconds & yours takes 30 seconds to make the last shift, yet you are over 3000 rpms..
 
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Old Mar 8, 2011 | 06:05 AM
  #63  
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Cranked it up this morning and it fired right up and pressure immediately began coming up. No I didn't check the level in the res cause I was running late. Normaly after I start it and it's been sitting it will cackle a bit then smooth off, but that was not the case this morning so I'll be sure to check it this afternoon. The lpo at idle maxed out my gauge this morning but after driving a while it came back down to 45 on the go and 20 at idle
 
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Old Mar 8, 2011 | 06:09 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by bulla
Cranked it up this morning and it fired right up and pressure immediately began coming up. No I didn't check the level in the res cause I was running late. Normaly after I start it and it's been sitting it will cackle a bit then smooth off, but that was not the case this morning so I'll be sure to check it this afternoon. The lpo at idle maxed out my gauge this morning but after driving a while it came back down to 45 on the go and 20 at idle
You know, man, something just isn't sounding right about your lop... I'm seriously wondering if you don't have a blockage in there somewhere? But one thing... for me, that much throttle at 75mph is fairly normal.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2011 | 06:33 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by bulla
Trans doesn't seem to be slipping it just takes forever for my truck to build up enough speed to shift. You could tell me how to check the trans with the ae and I'll do it. I've
Felt a trans slip and it just doesn't feel like it. Frank was it slipping?
Its possible David. If so I would be looking at the TC, It wasnt slipping in any one gear. You can check TC slip with your AE.
It completely baffeled me. After driving your truck that sunday I'm sure I could have outrun you in mine in "stock" with my camper still hooked. Its that bad guys....
 
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Old Mar 8, 2011 | 07:20 AM
  #66  
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David, I have a couple of questions and comments.
1--your LPOP #s are normal. cold oil will build some crazy #s at first then calm down as the oil and engine warm up
2- what is you injector pulse width at WOT? if the injectors are commanded to stay open too long it will cause low HPOP #s and high duty cycle.
3-- could it be starting out in 2nd gear? put it in drive and accelerate, then stop, put it in 2 and accelerate does it feel the same? I had a friends truck that would do that intermitantly. when it would take off in 2nd it was a no power slug. unfortunatly I left before he found the cure.
4--have you pulled the check valves out of the heads? its the small fitting where the fuel lines attatch. plugged screens will show good pressure at the filter but no or weak pressure in the individual head.

Good luck

Barney
 
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Old Mar 8, 2011 | 07:28 AM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by bfife
4--have you pulled the check valves out of the heads? its the small fitting where the fuel lines attatch. plugged screens will show good pressure at the filter but no or weak pressure in the individual head.

Good luck

Barney
Good call Barney...
 
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Old Mar 8, 2011 | 08:25 AM
  #68  
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From: Garden City, KS
Originally Posted by gchavez
Doesn't the 15 degree HPOP use a different type of gasket? On your modded pump, did you remove the poppet pieces at the hose fittings to the heads? If so, do you have your HPx installed still?

Did you happen to see that post from F350-6(Chris) this past weekend that had a pdf link that explained the different HPOP and reservoir parts through the years? What would happen if the early style housing were used on the later style blocks with the external check valve?

I am just thinking out loud here...
Something is allowing your reservoir to drain and your low oil pressure is abnormal...
Do you have a link for this by any chance?
 
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Old Mar 8, 2011 | 08:33 AM
  #69  
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I'll check the check valves this after noon. It takes off good to me but it's on the top
End when it's in 3 and 4 that it feels like it barley has enough power to keep it going. I did look at the pulse width but I can't remember where it was at wot. Seemed to be around 2.5 area. Probly not saying much but I'll pay more attention and let y'all know. If you want to go
For a ride with me and my ae tell me what to monitor and I'll video it and post it for you!
 
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Old Mar 8, 2011 | 08:37 AM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by bulla
I'll check the check valves this after noon. It takes off good to me but it's on the top
End when it's in 3 and 4 that it feels like it barley has enough power to keep it going. I did look at the pulse width but I can't remember where it was at wot. Seemed to be around 2.5 area. Probly not saying much but I'll pay more attention and let y'all know. If you want to go
For a ride with me and my ae tell me what to monitor and I'll video it and post it for you!
That's about normal. Remember, PW increases as the tunes get hotter... that's why your pressure drops and you DC increases. But like others have said, you should be doing better than that.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2011 | 09:27 AM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by bfife
David, I have a couple of questions and comments.
1--your LPOP #s are normal. cold oil will build some crazy #s at first then calm down as the oil and engine warm up
2- what is you injector pulse width at WOT? if the injectors are commanded to stay open too long it will cause low HPOP #s and high duty cycle.
3-- could it be starting out in 2nd gear? put it in drive and accelerate, then stop, put it in 2 and accelerate does it feel the same? I had a friends truck that would do that intermitantly. when it would take off in 2nd it was a no power slug. unfortunatly I left before he found the cure.
4--have you pulled the check valves out of the heads? its the small fitting where the fuel lines attatch. plugged screens will show good pressure at the filter but no or weak pressure in the individual head.

Good luck

Barney
I second all of this.
Bulla, I recommend that you try and figure out a way to measure fuel pressure at the rail, not at the fuel bowl.
Taking off good in 1 and 2, then dropping off in 3 and 4 with good ICP tells me there is no fuel.
But you won't develope 20 psi boost during that period of acceloration, either.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2011 | 11:48 AM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by Kwikkordead
I second all of this.
Bulla, I recommend that you try and figure out a way to measure fuel pressure at the rail, not at the fuel bowl.
Taking off good in 1 and 2, then dropping off in 3 and 4 with good ICP tells me there is no fuel.
But you won't develope 20 psi boost during that period of acceloration, either.
My truck will not make ANY boost if fuel pressure drops below about 20psi - measured in the heads. I really don't think we are looking at a fuel problem.

TC is interesting though, my Excursion was a wet noodle for acceleration - until TC locked up. If I hammered it from a stop, it quickly redlined and slowly pulled up speed until shift point. BUT, it didn't really feel like what Dave and Frank describe.

Maybe get a hold of Brian and pick his brain to see if trans could be a contributor?

Sorry I missed your call last nite - I was already OUT! Never even heard it ring. Don't worry about calling me late though, I'd be happy to try and help any time of day. There's always CAFFEINE and sugar to get me rolling the next day. (and maybe some Nickleback using all 1400watts of stereo...)
 
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Old Mar 8, 2011 | 12:09 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by bfife
David, I have a couple of questions and comments.
1--your LPOP #s are normal. cold oil will build some crazy #s at first then calm down as the oil and engine warm up
2- what is you injector pulse width at WOT? if the injectors are commanded to stay open too long it will cause low HPOP #s and high duty cycle.
3-- could it be starting out in 2nd gear? put it in drive and accelerate, then stop, put it in 2 and accelerate does it feel the same? I had a friends truck that would do that intermitantly. when it would take off in 2nd it was a no power slug. unfortunatly I left before he found the cure.
4--have you pulled the check valves out of the heads? its the small fitting where the fuel lines attatch. plugged screens will show good pressure at the filter but no or weak pressure in the individual head.

Good luck

Barney
Great ideas! #4 sure sounds plausible to me. I think that's one of the best suggestions so far.
(although...wouldn't the boost reading also suffer?)

Originally Posted by JonathanN
Do you have a link for this by any chance?
Here is the link to that post.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-3-engine.html
Check out page 21 where it says that the pistons have some sort of special swirl in the 'mexican hat' section so they have to be installed correctly for proper combustion. I never heard about this before...

Pages 35 thru 40 talks about a De-Aeration valve that was eliminated in serial number 375549 going forward, changes in oil pickup tubes, adding a anti-drain back check valve, different HPOP gaskets etc. Of special note is page 40 which shows the 4 different types of HPOP units.

Originally Posted by ghig1967
I don't have the AE yet, so I'm no help in telling you how to run the test. ...
Here are some guides to check the trans with AE...
 
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Old Mar 8, 2011 | 08:27 PM
  #74  
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Ok guys I did monitor the torque actual slip on my ae and at wot with at high speeds there is no slip! I did plug my frx off to dead head the fuel system to check pressure and it seems to be holding 55-60 lbs on each side. I also removed the ipr but I didn't see anything in it but I'm gonna reinstall my old one to see I there is maybe something wrong with my current one. As for icp it seems as my pressures have came up and I am now able to hold around 2300-2400 psi at wot and my duty cycle never maxed out. Probly only got to high 80's or so. I do have some data logging if I could send the file to and someone could put it on a graph for me. I'd also like to learn how to do this myself! I'll see if the res drains down in the morning. Hopefully not!!
 
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Old Mar 8, 2011 | 10:05 PM
  #75  
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Help I installed my old ipr and now my truck won't start! Hooked my ae up and I'm only getting 200 psi on icp and 64% dc. So I put the new one back in and same exact numbers! What did I do?
 
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