Engine codes after towing.
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Silver City New Mexico
Engine codes after towing.
I have an 06 F350 6.0 crew cab, long bed, 4x4. Bought it last may and i really love the truck. I was able to fit all three quads in the bed. Recently I bought a fuel efficient rice burner to get back and forth to work. The $120 a week fuel bill was killing the budget. I towed the vehicle back about 5 hours using a dolly. Truck ran great with what little weight was back there. The next morning I returned the dolly and on the way home the truck threw a CEL. The codes were PO273, PO276, PO279, PO284, PO611. I know what the codes are, but once cleared they haven't come back. Should I accept this as a fluke, or should I be more concerned? My mechanic said not to worry unless they come back on. Any advice? Second my towing mileage was 14.2 MPG, normally I am getting 15.5 back and forth to work. A buddy who has an 05 with a lift is getting 20-21 empty. Does my milage sound normal for a stock truck, with the exception I had the exhaust straight piped?
Thanks
Phil
Thanks
Phil
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,369
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From: Stuttgart, Ar
Don't be surprised if it leaves you stranded. Low circuit codes and a P0611 usually mean your FICM is on it's way out. Have you done a voltage test on your FICM with a DVOM? Keep in mind that just because the voltage is correct doesn't mean your FICM isn't toast.
Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: TX
Senior User
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From: MI
I have an 06 F350 6.0 crew cab, long bed, 4x4. Bought it last may and i really love the truck. I was able to fit all three quads in the bed. Recently I bought a fuel efficient rice burner to get back and forth to work. The $120 a week fuel bill was killing the budget. I towed the vehicle back about 5 hours using a dolly. Truck ran great with what little weight was back there. The next morning I returned the dolly and on the way home the truck threw a CEL. The codes were PO273, PO276, PO279, PO284, PO611. I know what the codes are, but once cleared they haven't come back. Should I accept this as a fluke, or should I be more concerned? My mechanic said not to worry unless they come back on. Any advice? Second my towing mileage was 14.2 MPG, normally I am getting 15.5 back and forth to work. A buddy who has an 05 with a lift is getting 20-21 empty. Does my milage sound normal for a stock truck, with the exception I had the exhaust straight piped?
Thanks
Phil
Thanks
Phil
The test is pretty easy and if you search for FICM you'll find the post with the testing procedure.
Good luck!
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Senior User
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From: Silver City New Mexico
Update!!!
Ok didn't do any tests for the fact the light hadn't come back on. Well the other day it did finally come back. Took it to Autozone only because i was curious and my mechanic was closed. They found 12 codes as follows, PO 273, 276, 279, 284, 261, 270, 264, 267, 282 and a couple others that are similar to the ones mentioned. The only one they didn't pull up was the PO611. So while i was there i had them test the batteries and alternator. When he went to hook up the tester to the driver side battery, found the positive terminal was covered something terrible in corrosion. Charging system test proved to be too low. So i went home and cleaned the terminal. In the morning will be taking it to the mechanic to test everything again. For the FICM I was thinking of one of four options. First send my FICM to Circuit Board Medics and have rebuilt for around $350, get one from Swamps, or one from Diesel Parts.com, or follow the directions on here to repair it myself. That one shouldn't be too hard as i worked as an electronics repair tech in the Navy. But another question i have is if i get a rebuilt one from Swamps, what are the advantages of getting the 58V versus the 48V? Thanks Phil.
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Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Stuttgart, Ar
You might also try ficmrepair.com as they seem to be very knowledgeable and their prices and warranty are extremely good.
48V vs. 58V FICM has been a highly debated issue. Unless you're hotrodding your truck I would recommend you stay with the 48V FICM as I haven't heard of any real gains with the 58V.
48V vs. 58V FICM has been a highly debated issue. Unless you're hotrodding your truck I would recommend you stay with the 48V FICM as I haven't heard of any real gains with the 58V.
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Thread Starter
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From: Silver City New Mexico
Update #2
Well the truck is fixed, disaster avoided. Sad to say it was something really stupid on my part. The corrosion was so bad on the positive terminal it prevented a good connection. Once cleaned the CEL turned off, and retested the batteries and charging system. All tested ok. So for now everything is good.
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From: Silver City New Mexico
Alright, again i was wrong. The corrosion removed the problem temporarily. The truck has sat for 3 weeks due to it being apart waiting for parts for my CB install. Well the batteries were dead. I charged them up, took the truck to my mechanic. One battery failed, the other border line. Replaced both batteries, did a draw test, and they said the charging system was working. Codes were erased. Two days later they came back on. Taking alternator off tomorrow to have bench tested, and a friend is coming by to help with ficm voltage test. I had read that the glow plug controller could also cause the problem. If the ficm voltage test, and alternator test come back good, should i look at the glow plug controller or just send the ficm to be repaired? Wanting to get this taken care of. Too many other projects to get done, than having to deal with this all the time.
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Silver City New Mexico
Update
Alternator tested good. Voltages on the FICM were as follows, 20vdc while glow plugs on, 48vdc before starting, and 44.3vdc while truck was running. Taking to mechanic on Monday. Want to get it fixed but with work, school, and housework, only leaves me one day a week to work on it. Cheezit i will let them know your suggestions. The guy that is going to work on it has a lot of experience working with the PSD.
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Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Norfolk, VA
There is a guy on Ebay by the user name "Mandigital" that repairs FICM's for $225 + Shipping to him. He gives a three year warranty and has to back to you in two-three days (1st class shipping both ways). Has High Possitive feedback, I used him and I was very pleased. I would use him again.