My 88 7.3L truck has started smoking badly when warm. Using posts on the forum I was able to identify at least one injector that is bad. Truck has 250K+ miles on it so I've ordered new injectors and IP. Ouch!
I've been reading posts for days and it seems like there are a couple of different ways to replace the IP. One way is to remove the timing cover with the IP. I really want to avoid timing problems but i am thinking I will have adjust the timing with the new IP anyway.
Is the timing something I can adjust myself?
What is the best way to replace the IP?

 

About to do mine also, good question(s).

 

here is the procedure i followed for removal of IP:

"Removal & Installation

<table class="image" align="center" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"> <tbody><tr> <td align="center"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="img_captionRow"> Throttle linkage-7.3L diesel engine
</td> </tr> <tr> <td class="img_enlargelinkRow" align="center"> Click to Enlarge </td> </tr> </tbody></table><table class="image" align="center" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"> <tbody><tr> <td align="center"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="img_captionRow"> Diesel engine oil filter neck removal
</td> </tr> <tr> <td class="img_enlargelinkRow" align="center"> Click to Enlarge </td> </tr> </tbody></table><table class="image" align="center" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"> <tbody><tr> <td align="center"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="img_captionRow"> Diesel injection pump drive gear attaching bolts
</td> </tr> <tr> <td class="img_enlargelinkRow" align="center"> Click to Enlarge </td> </tr> </tbody></table><table class="image" align="center" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"> <tbody><tr> <td align="center"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="img_captionRow"> Diesel fast idle solenoid bracket
</td> </tr> <tr> <td class="img_enlargelinkRow" align="center"> Click to Enlarge </td> </tr> </tbody></table><table class="image" align="center" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"> <tbody><tr> <td align="center"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="img_captionRow"> Removing the diesel fuel return line
</td> </tr> <tr> <td class="img_enlargelinkRow" align="center"> Click to Enlarge </td> </tr> </tbody></table><table class="image" align="center" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"> <tbody><tr> <td align="center"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="img_captionRow"> Removing the diesel injection pump
</td> </tr> <tr> <td class="img_enlargelinkRow" align="center"> Click to Enlarge </td> </tr> </tbody></table><table class="image" align="center" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"> <tbody><tr> <td align="center"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="img_captionRow"> Be sure to fit the alignment dowel on the pump into the hole in the drive gear
</td> </tr> <tr> <td class="img_enlargelinkRow" align="center"> Click to Enlarge </td> </tr> </tbody></table><table class="image" align="center" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"> <tbody><tr> <td align="center"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td class="img_captionRow"> Diesel injection pump static timing marks
</td> </tr> <tr> <td class="img_enlargelinkRow" align="center"> Click to Enlarge </td> </tr> </tbody></table>

1. Remove the engine oil filler neck.
2. Remove the bolts attaching injection pump to drive gear.

<table class="notetable" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"> <tbody><tr> <td class="noteclass_warning"> WARNING </td> </tr> <tr> <td> Before removing the fuel lines, clean the exterior with clean fuel oil or solvent to prevent entry of dirt into the engine when the fuel lines are removed. Also, do not wash or steam clean engine while engine is running. Serious damage to injection pump could occur.
</td> </tr> </tbody></table>

1. Disconnect battery ground cables from both batteries.
2. Disengage the electrical connectors to the injection pump.
3. Remove the fast idle solenoid bracket assembly to provide access to the injection pump mounting nuts.
4. Disconnect the accelerator cable and speed control cable from throttle lever, if so equipped.
5. Remove the air cleaner and install clean rags to prevent dirt from entering the intake manifold.
6. Remove the accelerator cable bracket, with cables attached, from the intake manifold and position out of the way.

All fuel lines and fittings must be capped using Fuel System Protective Cap Set T83T-9395-A or equivalent, to prevent fuel contamination.

1. Remove the fuel filter-to-injection pump fuel line and cap the fittings.
2. Remove and cap the injection pump inlet elbow and the injection pump fitting adapter.
3. Remove the fuel return line on the injection pump, then rotate out of the way, and cap all fittings.

It is not necessary to remove injection lines from the injection pump. If lines are to be removed, loosen the injection line fittings at the injection pump before removing it from engine.

1. Remove the fuel injection lines from the nozzles, and cap the lines and nozzles.
2. Remove the three nuts attaching the injection pump to the injection pump adapter using Tool T83T-9000-B.
3. If the injection pump is to be replaced, loosen the injection line retaining clips and the injection nozzle fuel lines with Tool T83T-9396-A and cap all fittings at this time with protective cap set T83T-9395-A or equivalent. Do not install the injection nozzle fuel lines until the new pump is installed in the engine.
4. Lift the injection pump, with the nozzle lines attached, up and out of the engine compartment.

<table class="notetable" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"> <tbody><tr> <td class="noteclass_warning"> WARNING </td> </tr> <tr> <td> Do not carry injection pump by injection nozzle fuel lines as this could cause lines to bend or crimp.
</td> </tr> </tbody></table> To install:

1. Install a new O-ring on the drive gear end of the injection pump.
2. Move the injection pump down and into position.
3. Position the alignment dowel on injection pump into the alignment hole on drive gear.
4. Install the bolts attaching the injection pump to drive gear and tighten.
5. Install the nuts attaching injection pump to adapter. Align scribe lines on the injection pump flange and the injection pump adapter and tighten to 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm).
6. If the injection nozzle fuel lines were removed from the injection pump install at this time, refer to the Injection Lines installation procedure in this section.
7. Remove the caps from nozzles and the fuel lines and install the fuel line nuts on the nozzles and tighten to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
8. Connect the fuel return line to injection pump and tighten the nuts.
9. Install the injection pump fitting adapter with a new O-ring.
10. Clean the old sealant from the injection pump elbow threads, using clean solvent, and dry thoroughly. Apply a light coating of pipe sealant to the elbow threads.
11. Install the elbow in the injection pump adapter and tighten to a minimum of 72 inch lbs. (8 Nm). Then tighten further, if necessary, to align the elbow with the injection pump fuel inlet line, but do not exceed 360 degrees of rotation or 10 ft. lbs. (13 Nm).
12. Remove the caps and connect the fuel filter-to-injection pump fuel line.
13. Install the accelerator cable bracket on the intake manifold.
14. Remove the rags from the intake manifold and install the air cleaner.
15. Connect the accelerator and speed control cable, if so equipped, to the throttle lever.
16. Install the fast idle solenoid bracket assembly.
17. Install the electrical connectors on injection pump.
18. Clean the injection pump adapter and oil filler neck sealing surfaces.
19. Apply a ¹/₈ in. (3mm) bead of RTV sealant on the adapter housing.
20. Install the oil filler neck and tighten the bolts.
21. Connect the battery ground cables to both batteries.
22. Run the engine and check for fuel leaks.
23. If necessary, purge high pressure fuel lines of air by loosening connector one half to one turn and cranking engine until solid fuel, free from bubbles flows from connection.

<table class="notetable" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"> <tbody><tr> <td class="noteclass_caution"> CAUTION </td> </tr> <tr> <td> Keep eyes and hands away from nozzle spray. Fuel spraying from the nozzle under high pressure can penetrate the skin.
</td> </tr> </tbody></table>

1. Check and adjust injection pump timing as described in this section"

 

this may help you too.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...u-can-too.html

 

Niice... I like the detialed version, never seen that before!

Important note since you mentioned it: DO NOT REMOVE THE TIMING GEAR COVER!

Yes you may have to re-time the pump, but you do this by loosening the three bolts connecting the pump to the gear cover and rotating the pump slight amounts (wit hthe engine off).

You can time it pretty close (likely close enough) by re-aligning the timing marks right on and listening if it sounds right. To time it right on you need a luminosity probe or pulse timing adapter with a timing gun (these are pricey and less common to find).

Edit: PS: I replaced my pump and did it by ear and it's pretty good, but I do have some turbo lag so its not right on yet.

 

you dont have to remove the fast idle solenoid if you are careful. After all wires, hoses and lines are removed and the throttle cable and throttle cable mount, it should just slide straight back then lift all lines, you will probably hit the booster vacuum line so just wiggle past it and itll come straight out. Similar reinstall. For the 24th time, no no no on the timing cover, but if you have to for whatever reason, you can do it carefully. Like when i did the intake valley pan gasket. Leave the gear in place!

edit,

8mm 12 point socket for injection pump gear bolts.
9/16" wrench for the three nuts on the IP
5/8" wrench for the injector line nuts
1/2" for the cover bolts
1/4" or 5/16" socket for the hose clamp

that ought to be all of it

 

So basically you just pull off the oil filler neck, take out the bolts on the gear, then remove the nuts holding the IP to the housing and pull the whole shebang out?

I'm looking to do this basically as soon as I can get all my injectors pop tested (still waiting on a few parts for the tester).

Also, you can get a Ferret timing adapter from Tool Discounter for $190 shipped to your door. I bought one earlier this week because I figured I should have it anyway and I want to get my timing right. It connects to any inductive timing light.

 

yes what you said but take off the injector lines at the injector and remove the wires and return line hose. Thats about it.

 

This write out is very helpful, but this link makes me feel like it will take weeks, lol.

 

two hours and three beers, thats taking my time, i could pull and replace in about an hour depending on what is needed.

 

And is this install kit necessary? Did you have to remove the IP feed line?

Cardone Reman/Fuel Injection Pump Install Kit (2K-203) | 1992 Ford F250 3/4 ton P/U 4WD 8 Cylinders M 7.3L Diesel | AutoZone.com

 

ming from ford, no you dont have to have it. But check condition of the threads and head of bolt. If its in good shape, which being covered in oil all the time, they will be its ok.

I removed the line completely for coating and ease of less things in the way but it needs to come out.

Edit, i say this when i assume your new IP has the oring installed already. Mine came with new orings installed and i checked them to see and they were very strong and pliable. So with that, if it has the oring, you dont need the kit, if you need an oring, just get the kit.

 

Well I know that, I was kind of stating my post in assumption those steps were already done :P

 

i was just making sure because when i was taking mine out the first time, i couldnt figure why it wasnt coming back only to realize i hadnt removed the IP feed line from the filter.......

 

I've done things like that before.