Phaser Tick Fix without replacing Phasers.
by disabling this, the phaser wont adjust, which is usually where the noise comes from. theoretically, if the noise stops, then the root of your problem lies with the solenoids or phasers.
the truck will not necessarily run rough, but it will lose power, but i would not suggest driving the truck with them unplugged. i simply let the truck warm up, unplugged both, then brought the engine to 800-1200rpm (where the noise was worst) and thats how i identified my problem
what you are doing by unplugging the solenoids is disabling the VVT system. the phasers will enter a default mode, and your timing will no longer advance or retard. your cpu identifies this, and it will throw a code. that is how you know that the VCT solenoids are disabled. if you unplug one, and give it some gas, and the light does not turn on, try both, then it will turn on.
by disabling this, the phaser wont adjust, which is usually where the noise comes from. theoretically, if the noise stops, then the root of your problem lies with the solenoids or phasers.
the truck will not necessarily run rough, but it will lose power, but i would not suggest driving the truck with them unplugged. i simply let the truck warm up, unplugged both, then brought the engine to 800-1200rpm (where the noise was worst) and thats how i identified my problem
by disabling this, the phaser wont adjust, which is usually where the noise comes from. theoretically, if the noise stops, then the root of your problem lies with the solenoids or phasers.
the truck will not necessarily run rough, but it will lose power, but i would not suggest driving the truck with them unplugged. i simply let the truck warm up, unplugged both, then brought the engine to 800-1200rpm (where the noise was worst) and thats how i identified my problem
its an easy job as long as you have an 04-06. one seal and one bolt per valve cover.
here is a decent video that explains how to do it.
here is a decent video that explains how to do it.
Last edited by powerstroke72; Jul 26, 2015 at 06:54 PM. Reason: Remove quote from spammer
I changed the solenoids on my 2005 5.4 last week. Took about 35 minutes. I bought them on ebay from an actual Ford dealer, and they came with the valve cover seals. They cost about $64 each.
I also changed the oil with Valvoline Synpower 5w20 and a motorcraft FL820 filter.
The result?? Still taps some, but not nearly as bad. In fact,it got better after running it for a few days. Still some noise but not as obnoxious as it was.
Truck runs as good as before but no better. At 93,000 miles I going to "let 'r run" until something else happens....the oil pressure is well over half on the gauge....for what that is worth on the factory dash gauge......
I also changed the oil with Valvoline Synpower 5w20 and a motorcraft FL820 filter.
The result?? Still taps some, but not nearly as bad. In fact,it got better after running it for a few days. Still some noise but not as obnoxious as it was.
Truck runs as good as before but no better. At 93,000 miles I going to "let 'r run" until something else happens....the oil pressure is well over half on the gauge....for what that is worth on the factory dash gauge......
replaced the VCT solenoids but still hear the cam phasers clattering at idle when the engine is warm. Oh well, ruled out what might have been an easy improvement. Will live with the noise; maybe get a Flowmaster exhaust so I won't hear it.
Same here
Me too...190,000 just replaced VCT solenoids and still here the ticking...drive it till it dies, then replace it. Already have a Flowmaster exhaust.
Last edited by roboink555; Aug 15, 2015 at 04:15 PM. Reason: information
Vct solenoids
Try summitracing.com 38.00 each
Same thing
i have an 08 f-150 and i have had the cam phaser problem, i had the phasers replaced by a ford tech. noise was fixed for about two weeks then it came back. unplugged the solenoid sensor on the passenger side and the noise was fixed, gettin ready to replace solenoid here soon, i left the sensor unplugged to avoid the noise n it does not really affect my performance to noticibly. i would notice the noise more when i was going through a drive thru. n sometimes it would start knocking when idle down from 1,200-1,500 rpms n would actually start knocking terribly and the whole truck would be shaking like the motor was about to scatter... would have to shut the truck off and restart to get it to stop.... it was a terrrible thing to go thru with a new truck with such low miles. I THINK FORD NEEDS TO MAN THE #%@* UP AND DO A RECALL ON THIS PROBLEM AND DO SOMETHING TO FIX IT PERMANATLY!!! replacing cam phasers shouldnt be part of a normal maintance tune up... just sayin.. still love my truck tho
Someone has to help with this as the money has come to an end on this truck!!!!! Also have several different trouble codes when the knocking and missing starts!
BRAND NEW SET OF 2 ENGINE VARIABLE TIMING SOLENOID VCT SOLENOID W/ SEAL & SCREW $44.00
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/222027229539?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=trueI have no codes but the noise started getting louder this past week and its getting on my nerves. Think I'll order a set of these, replace em and go trade this POS off on a 2012 ecoboost.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/222027229539?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=trueI have no codes but the noise started getting louder this past week and its getting on my nerves. Think I'll order a set of these, replace em and go trade this POS off on a 2012 ecoboost.
My knocking/pinging issue started immediately after I did an engine flush with one of those snake oil off the shelf cleaners. After spending thousands on the timing chain and spreaders, it was still there and they told me is was the phasers and not worth changing since it only occurred during startup.
I have been running it that way for over a year until a front end collision made the car start running like crap.
The shop claims it is the phasers and it is throwing codes 11,22,345. They wanted 2 more grand plus the truck for a week to complete. I ordered up a set of VCT and in the meantime pulled the bank one VCT. It did not look to bad but I cleaned it and put it back. I also found a vacuum line that the repair shop left open and reconnected it. Now I am only getting the 22 code for bank 2. Tonight I will clean that one. I will not put the new VCTs in until I perform a good flush using BG 190 which will be delivered Saturday.
I have been running it that way for over a year until a front end collision made the car start running like crap.
The shop claims it is the phasers and it is throwing codes 11,22,345. They wanted 2 more grand plus the truck for a week to complete. I ordered up a set of VCT and in the meantime pulled the bank one VCT. It did not look to bad but I cleaned it and put it back. I also found a vacuum line that the repair shop left open and reconnected it. Now I am only getting the 22 code for bank 2. Tonight I will clean that one. I will not put the new VCTs in until I perform a good flush using BG 190 which will be delivered Saturday.
a ford mech on youtube pointed us to an amazon part with same day to two day delivery. I get mine today. go there and put in your part number - recommend the new OEM part.
P.S. Seaform is what caused my issue. I am going to step up to BG 190. The issue is that the sludge get loosened and plugs the VCT which then leave vanish on them. They over work and weaken or seize.





