I've ordered a RAS for my 2004 4x4 Excursion and will be installing it next week. I tow a Jayco 32 BHDS- a fairly heavy TT and the rep suggested I tighten the springs to 3mm (use both spacers) due to the trailer weight.

I wanted to see what you guys thought and although the install looks simple enough weather there are any tricks or tips I should know.

Thanks!

 

It's a very simple install.... here's a video if you haven't seen it already.

YouTube - Roadmaster Active Suspension Kits - Haul more safely!

 

I've installed RAS twice on my EX. It is very straight forward & just be careful with the jack stands as the entire rear end will be off the ground.

Unless there have been some significant improvements in the design or materials of the Axle end of the RAS, I suggest you use caution with "over doing" the tension on the spring. There have been several failures (two for current forum members & I was one of them that I can document) at this end of the RAS due to materiall failures of the Cap Screw that is threaded into the spring.

Both were on the Drivers side and both happened when there was not a tow on the back end. Even with the "standard" 2 mm tension, you will see the back end come up 1 to 1 3/4 inches. I've dropped my stinger as far down as it can go and I'm still not quite level on the trailer now.

These things do work well but I think you'll find you don't need "more tension" to gain the improvements in ride and towing. You can always jack the frame up later and put more tension if you really think it necessary.

BTW - when they do fail at the cap screw the whole kit n kabootle shoots out the back likie a NASA space launch!!! And What a noise it makes!!!!!

D

 

TXSailor.
Does it damage the X when it fails? This is also on my to do list.

 

I was under the impression that the newer ones addressed this issue. Were yours the "newer" or "older" style? I have ordered mine directly from RAS, so they should (better) be the newer ones.

 

I have still not been able to confirm all the "revisions" that Roadmaster has gone thru. I can tell you that it appears much of the change has been at the axle end of the design.The first change (from the "old" style" ) was to eliminate the cup washer/bearing at the Axle end in favor of what I call a toggle. It's a 1' SS slug about 2 in long with a countersunk hole in th middle (through the diameter) that the Hex Cap Screw goes thru and then into the spring. It forms a "T" with the mounting strap wrapped around the 1" portion (top) of the "T". This allows the end to articulate up and down as the leaf spring moves up an down. It keeps the coil sping "in column" with the capscrew and threaded rod on the other end of the spring. In theory this removes side loads and keeps the bolt and rod in pure tension. Th Hex Headed Cap Screw is a very loose fit in the 1" SS slug. (I'm not sure why it is countersunk.)The second change was to elimininate the need to remove the leaf sring "U" bolts to mount the axle end of the RAS by making the axle mount in two pieces that are bolted together on either side of the leaf spring. This makes the installaiton much faster and easier but they did not change the style of the "T" .I have heard discussion that implies that Roadmaster changed the size of the Cap screw (which is case hardened metric 12.9 grade) and/or threaded rod but I have not been able to confirm that.Like any product there are always improvments and revisions to contend with so I would not be afraid of purchasing new RAS units but cautionary about used units and stay away from any that do not use the "T" axle joint. (AKA the earliest units).As for damage..........When mine broke (for no apparent reason), it exited cleanly out the back never to be seen again. But that was the drivers side. Lord knows what would have happend on the passenger side where the AC lines are. When I replaced them, I added a "retainer" (heavy duty nlyon tie-wraps) to the shackle ends to keep the units from going astray (or maybe just slow thme down) if it happens again.D

 

Did't anwser the question. Mine are just like those in the installation video in this thread.

 

Nevermind - I figured it out. The new design sure makes it VERY easy to install. Can't wait to haul the trailer now!

Thanks, Scott

 

Yes it was pretty simple. I kept thinking I was going to run out of thread to tighten the nut to get 2 mm of separation on the spring coils, but i never did.

 

glad you got it installed...I've found it has made a big difference for me with 1100+#'s of tongue weight and the family load in the Ex while towing...not near as much squat or bounce when towing.

It isn't so much the "static" 1100#'s of tongue weight but the "dynamic" bouncing as you go down the road that much weight back there that the RAS really assists with dampening out.

Let us know how it works out for you when you hitch up and get some towing miles in!

TXSailor...I tried to rep you for your detailed information above but the rep gods have me restrained from sending any your way (hint hint to the others).

Good luck,
Joe.

 

I like the way it feels even without a load - feels much better, and the extra 1.5 -1.75 inches in the back looks much better as well.

I'll see the towing here in about a week - taking the tribe from Nashville TN to Panama City Beach, FL - I can't wait for the gas to spike even higher between now and then... (but it won't be as bad as the trip I have planned to Canada this summer)

 

Yeah, I'll be hitching up the toy hauler next weekend for the first time. I'm hoping (assuming) that the tow will be a secondary consideration with the Hensley Arrow hitch. I'm very excited since it marks the start of racing season and the first time we'll be camping in the trailer overnight, too.

 

Thanks for the thought X_Hemi_Guy. Aprreciated.

I just fincished a 2,000 miles trip with the Trailer on Friday and I am still happy with the results.

I also did a significant amount of "4 wheeling" in the back country areas of Big Bend National Park during the trip and I think the RAS worked very well off-road as well.

D