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Old Feb 25, 2011 | 12:28 AM
  #1  
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osb
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From: Texas
Rear Window switch

Running down a rear window gremlin...

Pretty sure I got the diagnosis. The switch on the dash on my 96 is the likely culprit. Wiring is all good that I can tell. The key works, but only if you have someone else jiggle the dash switch. The dash switch will always lower the window, but not raise it.

So, I have a new switch from JBG, but cant seem to figure out how to get the instrument panel that holds the dash switch off to replace the doggone thing??

Did a few searches, but unless i'm missing something all the results are about getting the whole dash out. I just need to remove the black panel that goes around the gauge cluster.

Please point me in the right direction.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2011 | 07:27 AM
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If you need someone else "jiggling" the dash switch, then you also have wiring problems, wiring problems you just can't "tell" by looking at them, you need to test them. You probably have a dead switch, but you surely have a wiring problem also. To start taking out the panels i remember you have to take out the trim and then un-screw the screws you'll find there. search in the "articles" section on our trucks. Someone swapped a cluster, and he describes the procedure very well. Doing the same the author did you'll gain access to that switch.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2011 | 04:37 PM
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NASSTY
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You also need to remove the **** on the headlight switch.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2011 | 09:50 PM
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The key switch and the dash switch have independent power feeds. Not sure how messing with one would help the other.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2011 | 10:32 PM
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The dash switch was somehow messing with the circuit... Dont understand the specifics, but it was clearly the problem. As i mentioned in the original post, the dash switch would lower the window, but not raise it. I could only get the the key to work if someone else would rock the dash switch slowly from up to down until it hit a certain spot and hold it there... then the rear key would work in both directions.

Once I figured out how to get the instrument cluster bezel off, I was able to swap the switch and now everything works fine.

I dont know how they are wired, but my guess is that it's similar to a 2way switch in your house. The raise portion of the dash switch was making a contact it shouldnt have, or not making one it should have... either way, replacing it fixed the problem.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2011 | 10:43 PM
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The switch is a polarity-reversing DPDT with a common center and set of "wipe" (no disconnect) contacts.

Its entirely possible that the actuator or some internal portion of the switch broke or was dragging and making contact when it shouldn't have.
 
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