Hi All-

I've been having a cold start problem lately that I can't seem to find information on. I'll go out to start it up and after the usual 3-5 seconds of cranking is fires, runs for a split second then shuts right off. It doesn't die slowly- after about a second of running it just shuts off like I pulled out the key. After the second 3-5 seconds of cranking it fires and stays running. It only seems to do it on a cold, cold start.

Any help is appreciated.

 

Check your FICM voltage. There is a procedure in the tech folder. Anything below 45V means your FICM is toast. Also, have you scanned it for codes and are you still under warranty?

 

I am under warranty until June. In the last week it has thrown the CEL a couple times. Codes are P0299 and P1335. Those don't seem to be related to starting though. I'll be making an appointment for those this week.

My FICM was replaced about 14 months ago. Think it could be bad already?

 

I am probably going to be too rough, but ...............

The info in this post sure would be helpful to include in the original post. It might help you get a solution faster and it just might be helpful to those who respond.

These are complicated engines and are not easy to troubleshoot. Certain symptoms can have MULTIPLE causes. This is probably the worst thing about a 6.0L IMO.

Now, all that being said ............ I would clean the EGR valve, then clean the EBP tube and MAP hose. Personally I think those codes could be related to starts depending on your strategy, but the "dieing" sounds more electrical). If same issues still persist, take it in and remember your emissions warranty is ZERO deductible for 5 yrs/100k miles (except for a few states).

I assume your batteries are in good health?

 

If your FICM was replaced prior to 12/09 and hasn't been reflashed since then it probably still contains the very aggressive inductive heating flash and may very well be fried again. That's hard to say. It could be simply a loose electrical connection somewhere. Sudden shutdowns aren't typical for a 6.0 unless it's an electrical problem. I don't think this is related to your two codes, but they would certainly affect your overall performance.

 

Thank you for responding. I agree that I should have put all info in the first post. However, I did a little research on the codes and they didn't seem to be related to a starting issue so I left them out. This time I'll put it all out there.

Some other info that might be helpful:

Last month, under warranty, the truck got a new head gasket, EGR cooler, oil cooler, turbo drain tube, EBP tube (maybe it was just cleaned), and STC fitting. At that time the EGR valve was clean. I've put about 1500 miles on it since then. The first time it died after a cold start was about 1 week after the above repairs. It has done it 3 or 4 times total, always on a cold start. The 2 codes were thrown at the same time after climbing a hill with a 3000# trailer. They have not returned since. At least the CEL has not turned on since I cleared them last.

Rear main seal was replaced 2 months ago.

Batteries read 12.65 volts.

I have a ~400mv key off battery drain when both batteries are disconnected. After a few days of sitting there's barely enough juice to get it started. I tested the drain by locking the doors, disconnecting the batteries and coming back an hour later to test the drain. My next task it to pull fuses one-by-one to determine which circuit the drain is on.

 

I got a couple things figured out.

The key off battery drain is only about 25mA, not 450. Once I connect the meter the drain starts out at 450mA, after 30 seconds drops to 200mA, then 120mA and finally settles at about 25mA after a couple minutes.

One battery was dead. Cold cranking amps were at 169. I replaced the battery and have not had the start/quit condition since.

What causes a battery to fail after only 1-2 years? I replaced the first battery with 2 yrs and 34k on the truck. The second battery was replaced 1 year later with 3 yrs and 50k. This last battery was replaced with 4.5 yrs and 85k on the truck. All batteries are Motorcraft originals. I don't have any equipment that would be placing a large drain on the batteries - other than a Fass fuel pump on my Aux tank.

 

It's sometimes very difficult to accomplish under warranty but batteries on a diesel should always be replaced in pairs. Replacing one at a time will cause a continual cascade effect and a good service guy will know this and go to bat for you. Sometimes parts managers don't see it the same way.