Put in a new idm and everything works fine. Going to torque everything down and get a new idm on order. This has been so educational I really appreciate everyones help. I guess I had multiple problems.

 

Thanks for the follow-up. Very educational Thread! Glad you got to the bottom of it.

 

That's good news. Glad you figured it out. Sounds like you need to carry a spare IDM with you.

 

I dont know. I mean this will be my 4th IDM, but maybe the UVCH being loose caused this one to have problems. Anyone have a good source for IDMs? I know where I can get a reman for about 2 bills, but I would love to get a new one. Problem is Ford wants about $700 and I can't justify that much extra cost over a reman.

 

You could try carparts.com or your local junkyard. Just don't get one of the lower voltage ones. I think I would prefer a used one over re manufactured.

 

Bob, so glad you have it fixed and it's running great. Good to hear.
However, I'm still a bit concerned about the 0 ohm reading on #4 and the fact that a different IDM solved the issue. I highly recommend that you re-check the wiring at the IDM harness when you put your new unit in. You can use the paper that I posted earlier in this thread for the procedure.

My thoughts are that you might have a worn spot on the #4 wiring and that could harm your IDM. I'd hate to see you spring for a new IDM and have it fail again. Since you've already been through a few units, I suspect that your #4 wire might be rubbing on a rocker arm or something and it's killing your IDM.

According to a Ford tech that I spoke with, the IDM is fairly robust but it can be harmed by faulty solenoids. In fact, if you notice during the buzz test, the IDM actually 'buzzes' all the solenoids during the test. It buzzes all 8 at once to begin the test, and then during the individual test, it buzzes one hard and the other 7 soft. For instance, if you hold your hand on #1 solenoid, it will buzz hard for #1 and then soft for the other 7 cylinders. Apparently, the test is performed this way to protect the IDM in case there is a dead short on one solenoid (the entire voltage isn't back fed to the system).

At any rate, I think something is causing your IDM failures so you might consider a new set of under valve cover harnesses to be safe.

Just my $0.02...

 

Bob I think Swamps has the IDM for a good price

 

Greg, thanks for the detailed input. I ran all of the tests on the paper that you posted in the beginning of this thread and everything check out once I had the UVCH plugged in all the way. I dont doubt that the UVCH being halfway unplugged couldve caused this IDM to fail, but considering the fact the everything ohmed out well according to all the tests in that sheet I can only assume it is all fine. Please tell me if you think there is something else I can check. The valve covers are still off and will be until I button everything back up tomorrow so it wouldnt be a problem for me to run more tests, I just dont know what else I can do. Thans for all of your help, this has actually been fun for me considering I have to spend money on somehting other than a performance mod.

 

Im glad you mentioned this because I thought I had heard that before. If nothing else I would rather give them the business than some no-name company in florida. Whats their contact info?

 

I'll look it up, I know the $$475 but $200 of that is core charge

 

Bob it's swampsdiesel.com

 

Just googled them, sounds like a plan. I will contact them on Monday!

 

Good deal bud, I've never heard any complaints on swamps & he ups the volts on them IDM's seems like folks are pretty pleased with them.

 

Robert,

Check with Cody before you go for a modded 140 volt IDM. It may have a bearing on the tunes he programmed for you. It will slightly change the start of injection timing.

 

Ok Robin, good point. I will explore all the options there. Appreciate the advice.