Thats what I thought Shawn, thanks! I felt stupid asking that question, but I read it differently last night and was testing the loose plug

So I was just making sure.

 

Correct, disconnect the connector at the outside of the valve cover and then take the ohm readings on the valve cover gasket side (not the wiring going back to the IDM). If you check back to Grant's post #5, you will see the pin arrangement. Set your meter to ohms (resistance), then connect one wire to the center (common) pin and the other lead will probe the two pins to the left and the two to the right. You will probe those pins one at a time. Assuming Bank 2 (Driver's side)...the two pins forward of the center pin are #2 and #4 and the two pins towards the cab are #6 and #8 cylinders. While you are at it, might as well probe the outer pins as well so you can check your glow plugs. Post back with your results and we can help you go from there.

Doubtful, but I suppose anything is possible. The only thing the IDM can hurt is possibly the solenoid perhaps, but I've never heard of anything like that happening. Maybe somebody has first hand knowledge of such an event and will join in here...

If anything, a short or fault in the harness could harm your re-manufactured IDM instead. One should always test the IDM harness before installing a new unit just so the new IDM isn't damaged by faulty wiring.

At the moment, my money is on a bad #4 injector or solenoid. I think you will end up under the valve cover anyway, even if the ohm readings look good. I could be wrong of course, but that is what my gut is telling me...

The passenger side valve cover is super easy. The driver's side is a bit more work, but also pretty easy so it's definitely something you can handle. PM me for my cell number and I'll talk you through it if you would like.

 

Thanks Greg, I always heard the driver's side valve cover was the easy one. Either way I think it is something I can handle and I have been wanting to retorque the rocker arms and pedestal bolts for some time so hopefully I will kill two birds with one stone.

Is the Injector Solenoid replaceable? Or do I have to replace the whole injector?

 

You can replace just the solenoid if you can get one.

 

Robin, what do you mean "if you can get one?"

Are they hard to come by?

 

Powerstroke Injector Solenoid

Clay could probably get them as well.

 

I just wanted to thank you all of you guys for sharing your knowledge!! I have learned so much from reading this tread. And I am looking forward to Robert finding his problem.

 

I agree with everyone about the solenoid on #4 injector. Also check the wires going to the injectors very closely. It could be a chaffed wire, anything is possible with wires being close to moving parts such as rockers and push rods. Good luck, Bob. Looking forward to hearing your findings.

 

Since I am learning from reading this tread I was wondering how you do the buzz test ? And is it correct to say that a buzz test can help pin point a bad injector or solenoid or both by the sound ? If not what is the reason for a buzz test?

 

You need some kind of scan tool with diagnostic capabilities to run a buzz test.
It can help pinpoint a problem with an injector or solenoid by the sound but mostly is useful to check the connection between the IDM and solenoid. The only injector problem it can detect is a poppet valve issue or bad solenoid so it's a tool among other tools.

In Bob's case, a fault was detected with #4 so there might be an issue with the wiring, the solenoid or the poppet valve/armature plate. I am curious to hear what the ohm test reveals...

 

Thank you Gchavez!! I don't have any problems yet but all this info will come in handy when the time comes. Didn't you have a book of all write ups and photos compiled in a book? Well I am trying to get all important info and trying to find photos then print it all and make a book for myself.

 

Yeah, I have a binder, It doesn't have every write up though, that would be way too much info. There are a ton of great write ups, so it's not practical to print out everything and still be able to find what you need at a moment's notice. I have some reference info that I thought was helpful along with diagrams etc.

I wish I would have purchased AE long before I actually did because it would have saved me over $500 when my UVCH came loose while towing. Lesson learned I guess...

These engines are so reliable that it's easy to pile on mile after mile with only regular maintenance and get lulled into a comfort zone where it's a rude awakening when something does go wrong. Like any machine, eventually something does fail and it's really nice to have AE vs just throwing parts at the problem and hope you get lucky.

Little story...
My passenger side UVCH has come loose twice in the last month or so. This hasn't happened to me since the dealer installed one of those little plastic clips that's designed to keep that from happening. Well, it's not fail safe I guess because the connector came loose again. Just a tiny bit though, it doesn't take much.

At any rate, both times it was nice just to plug in the laptop and fire up AE and see what the code was. Sure enough, P1316. Run the buzz test and Bank 1 fault. Lucky for me because that's the easy side. In the parking lot at work, in my work clothes, I get out my travel tools and a blanket and get to work. In 15 minutes I have the VC off and plug the connector back in and off I go. I made it home in time for dinner even.

Without AE, I probably would have been looking elsewhere because I never would have believed the UVCH connector would be loose since there was a part in there that was supposed to fix it. I would love to meet the engineer who designed that clip and see what he/she thinks of the fix that Chris came up with for only $0.50 In the back of my mind I think that Ford engineers frequent these forums just to see what the real world is doing with their equipment.

Anyway...I am rambling....
If you have the means, I recommend you call Clay and order AE. Guaranteed to save you money the very first time you have any issues.

 

Thanks Greg, What is AE ? No I wasn't going to keep all write ups but the ones like on this tread that tell you what pin in the plug is what. What ohms you should have. What voltage should be, things like that. Because I'll never remember that kind of stuff. And like you said you never know

 

AE is AutoEnginuity software that requires a laptop running Microsoft operating systems. It has the OBDII connector that interfaces with your PCM and can help troubleshoot most issues. Here is a link.
Riffraff Diesel: AutoEnginuity Total Ford Enhanced Bundle

 

Thanks Greg. I have a laptop that I was wanting to set up in the truck with internet and all. I'll be giving Clay a call. Actually I have a HUGE wish list with him.LOL I guess we are waiting on Robert to get back with the ohms report. I can't wait to see what his problem is.