Again, this is one of the better posts. Learning these trucks is great. I to am waiting to see ohm test. Hope it is simple fix.

 

Sorry it is taking me a while to get to the Ohm test guys. I didn't get home from work until midnight last night. If I get home at a decent hour tonight I will try to get it done. May be Saturday before I get to it though. Thankfully I have a second car that I can use for commuting. I will definitely post my results as soon as I have them.

 

Ok guys I got around to resistance testing the injectors and I got 3.0 on the rear two leads which I think is # 6 and 8. On the forward most post I got 9.0 and 0 on the other which I think is # 4. I am really surprised by the 9.0 on the forward most post. What should I do now? Start pulling the valve cover?

 

The outside pins are the glow plugs.
The injectors are the ones on either side of the center pin.
Injector solenoid ohming is across C & I.

Just want to make sure you are testing the injector solenoids because you stated "rear two leads" and "forward most post".

9 Pin UVCH Connector Pin Out

G
G
I
I
C
I
I
G
G

G=GP I=INJECTOR C=Injector Common

**The injectors fire with a 110 to 120 volt signal from the IDM. DO NOT pierce the wires to test ***


Ohm test between "I" and "C" for the injectors. Reading should be less than 5.0 Ohms.


Ohm test between "G" and "Battery Ground" for glow plugs. Reading should be between 0.6 ohms and 2.0 ohms.

 

Yeah I meant the injectors Robin. I didn't test the glow plug leads.

 

The UVCH is loose. Pull the VC. Mght as well pull them both and do the 50 cent mod. Also check the torque on the rocker arm pedestal bolts (20 ft/lbs) and the injector hold down bolts (120 in/lbs or 10 ft/lbs if you don't have an in/lb torque wrench).

After you get the connectors secure recheck ohm readings at the outside of the UVCH connector before you replace the VCs.

 

Yep. Pull the valve cover and fix the connector and do all the other stuff that Robin suggested. Looks promising that you found your problem.

 

What they said^^. Also check your other side and glow plugs to ground. If you have the valve covers off I would just go ahead and replace your glow plugs. Also, recheck all you ohm readings before putting the valve covers back on.

 

The 0 ohm reading on #4 has me concerned. That means dead short on that solenoid. If you still get 0 ohms after fixing the connector, then unplug #4 solenoid and check again.

I would also start the engine with the valve cover off just to confirm the engine runs smooth and all injectors have the same oil discharge.
If you unplug the solenoid and still get a 0 ohm reading then you should inspect the wiring.

Good luck!

EDIT: corrected spelling. I'm still getting used to typing on my cell phone.

 

Oops. Typo. I meant to say solenoid instead of splendid. Darn smart phone auto corrects...

 

Here is some instructions I wrote on pulling the valve cover and I also attached some info from the service cd.

ZD11 Motorcraft glow plug is best

1. Disconnect the batteries
2. Clean up the valve covers with some simple green before removal. Wash down with H20.
3. Disconnect map sensor and any other electrical wires that might get in the way. Intercooler tubes should also come off (cover holes). Also, take off the heater hose brackets on the valve cover two bolts. To remove them take a screwdriver and pry up from the bottom.
4. Remove the intake tubing up to the turbocharger inlet and cover the holes.
5. Unbolt the valve covers-the only difficult bolts to reach are the ones in the back by the firewall. Patience and flexibility will help you get them out. On the passenger side: The oil fill tube unscrews counterclockwise. (This makes it easier to get the valve cover out.) 6. Disconnect the glow plug electrical connection. If you are replacing the harness and valve cover disconnect the injector wires at the injector.
7. With a deep 10 mm socket and 1/4 inch wrench with an extension, lossen the glow plug.
8. Get a small diameter vacuum line 6-8 inches. Slip this over the end of the glow plug to remove. Make sure it fits tight over the end of the glow plug. If you try to undo the glow plug all the way with a socket it will get hung up on the rocker arm and you can't get your socket out. Don't drop one in the abysses.

9. Drop new glow plug into the hole using vacuum tube, spin into place by hand if possible, and then use socket to tighten.

10. Torque specs:
Glow plugs: 124 inch pounds or 14NM
Valve cover bolts: 97 inch pounds or 11NM
Injector hold down bolts: 120 inch pounds or 14nm
rocker arm pedestal bolts to 20 ft-lbs
11. Put the UVC connector back onto the glow plug.
12. Repeat for other 7 cylinders.
13. Check UVC harness for stripped insulation/loose connections/etc... and replace if necessary. Also make sure no wires are touching any moving parts.
14. Make sure all electrical connectors are connected before putting the valve cover back on. May be a good idea to ohm out I to c and glow plug to ground before putting back on the valve cover. The pins will be arranged like this:
G - G - I - I - C - I - I - G - G

G = glow plug
I = Injector return
C = Injector common feed

You should measure .5 - 2 ohms between G and ground, and around 3-5 ohms between I and C.

 

Good additional advice Greg.

Your so called "smart phone" also changed "injectors" to "objectors"

You just have to be smarter then your phone.

to you as well Grant.

 

Ok plug was loose and now everything ohms well within spec, but the truck is still running like crap. At a loss, trying to find another idm right now to swap in.

 

Nice set of instructions.
Only thing I have to add is for step #5 (passenger side vc bolts), I find it's much easier to reach in through the wheel well to get those two bolts. I throw a blanket over the tire so my arms aren't covered in tire black.

 

How did the oil discharge look from the injectors?
Didn't you have a code for the passenger side as well? Might also have a similar issue on that side.