well i already got stuck with new brakes and old rotors, for dealer told me they had plenty on them. we'll see how long they last for. I wasnt being cheap i just really didnt know.

 

Very well said. I wouldn't turn a set of rotors either (although I sure used to). One of the big problems is driving through standing water when you have been using the brakes heavily (getting the rotors wet when they are hot).

 

I've had incredibly good luck with my stock brakes. I got 108K from the stock front pads, replaced them with Ford premium pads and had the rotors trued up because they only had to have a VERY small amount turned off. That being said if the rotors in question are as close as you say then they should be replaced. No competent tech or shop will or should turn them. They are spec'd at a minimum thickness for a very very good reason. Personal safety of you and every other driver you encounter!!! 7K lbs. of runaway anything is a very dangerous and expensive mistake to make on a few dollars worth of brake parts.

 

The OP already has one rotor at minimum dimension, the other is not much better. If the rotors are warped enough to be causing his problem then by the time they were turned enough to eliminate the warp they would be well below minimum. The thinner the rotors are the more prone to warping they will be. Just need to bite the bullet and replace the rotors. I would advise anyone to "not" turn the rotors unless the rotor will be well beyond (larger than) minimum spec after they are turned.

 

There could be many things at work here causing your problem. Can you get the truck to a good front end shop for an inspection? Some places actually have free brake/front end inspections and such in the hope that they can earn your business. It might cost you some money in the long run, but it will probably save you a lot of time and agony. Good luck.

 

Chintzing out on brake parts seem to be the way to go for many people.... lets put some perspective in the sub-forum of $100 OEM fuel filters, over $100 just for 5 gallons of synthetic oil, and basically $1,000s the moment someone (a shop) touch the motor.

Brake rotors: $100 or so a piece for the factory or lower end brand new.

Pads: $100 or less.

Reman calipers: $100 or less

Brake fluid: too cheap to count

Bearings (not hubs): $25 or less a piece

Seals: $10 to $20 a piece

Grease: too cheap to count.


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Rotor thickness is essentially capacity.

Regardless of whether it meet thickness spec, if it is old, and if there is significant RUST inside where you cannot see.

Some of the heat absorbing capacity is gone.

It is purely a function of the amount of metal on there.

You cannot "turn" to add more metal, not on the faces, and certainly not on the inside that you cannot see well.

Less metal = less thermal capacity

Less thermal capacity = less stopping capacity

Even if they are perfectly straight.

Brake Calipers: Seals of piston and boot are rubber, subject to repeat cycles of heat.

You cannot visually evaluate them.

Ditto for hangers.

Just have a factory spec reman is a simple way out unless you want to spend hours and a few dollars rebuilding them.

If I had brand new calipers from the first day I owned the vehicle (and know their history) I would rebuild my own with silicon rubber (higher temp) based seals.

But I know what I am doing, and I can inspect calipers with equipment to check for heat stress, fatigue cracks, and other damage.

Can you?

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Bearings / seals: Why not peek at them while you are in there.. repacking them and installing them is so cheap and easy.

Hoses / Brake lines: If there is the slightest wrong, I replace.

Fluid flush and replace: The cheapest $10 you spend is on a complete whole system brake fluid flush.

Fluid absorb water at minimum rate of 1% a year.

Imagine what fluid with 5% water, or gasp, 10% do for your stopping power.


Never cease to amaze me to see cars with bling on it, $$$ spent on lifts, big tires, tunes, go around with what I regard is substandard brakes.

Don't save.

If you need to save on a brake job, it is time to trade it for a Focus.

 

Or a moped!

On a more serious level, brake performance is critical to safety...if you use components that are at the least equivalent to OEM specs you will be making the right investment. A tip to maintaining a healthy hydraulic system...bleed your brake system once every 2 years minimum, I do mine every year with a power bleeder and it only takes about 20 minutes. Saves corrosion on the calipers/wheel cylinders and Dot 3 fluid is not expensive. Brake fluid is hygroscopic (likes water) and changing out the fluid will probably eliminate that problem.

 

Here's the verdict:

I took the truck into Mieneke this morning to have them look at it to insure it was warped rotors before I started buying parts. The inspection was free. The culprit was a sticking caliper on the passenger front side. The mechanic said the sticking caliper created extra heat which warped the rotor. Which makes sense to me so I'm going to be replacing rotors, pads, and calipers on the front on both sides.

Here's their quote to do the work:

Ceramic Front Brake Pad - 89.99
Brake Pad Labor - 90.00
Bleed and Fill - 45.00
Front Brake Rotor - 323.58
Front Brake Caliper - 309.60
Brake Caliper Labor - 90.00
Shop Supplies - 35.99
Sales Tax - 52.29

For a grand total of - 1036.45 (HOLY COW)

Does that not seem outrageous to you guys???? Considering I already priced the parts at O-Reillys for around $400, their quote just seems out of this world!!

What do you guys think?

BTW - Thanks for everybody's input on this. Without you guys, I probably just would have replaced or turned the rotors and would have been left with an insuperior brake system.

Thanks again - I love FTE!!

Mike

 

I would say that is a little high! I would look for a quote from another shop.

 

I'm going to do the work myself. I just had them give me a quote out of curiosity. If it was within a hundred bucks I would have just had them do it. But their quote is ~$650 more then what I can get the parts for!

I mean their quote for one caliper is 154.80. They are 61 at O'Reillys.

 

Use good quality parts...Wagner, Raybestos are a couple of names, Motorcraft if you can get them reasonably priced. Work as clean as possible...don't want to contaminate the pads, and have plenty of Brakeclean handy. Dot 3 fluid is fine...and OEM semi-metallic pads are fine...you don't really need ceramic. Ceramic has a slight edge over OEM but most people will never realize the difference. Good luck.

 

You got the Mieneke and switch treatment.

They are famous for the loss leader $19.95 oil change, then they get you in for repairs that cost the sky.

For those prices, you can get it done at the dealer paying rack prices for parts.

IMHO, if you can get a discount at the dealer, their parts are not that expensive (10 to 20% premium) for excellent quality parts.

I would use Ford OEM rotors if you are not sure.

Use Ford Reman calipers (great quality) and Ford OEM pads.


Matching pads to rotors once you get above the basic quality is a bit of an art... not a science.

If you don't match it well.. the benefits may not be there.


FYI, I got Rotors for mine for about $60 a piece...

 

Anybody have a good procedure for properly bleeding and refilling the brake fluid?

 

If you like doing this kind of stuff then get a power bleeder...about a 20 minute job. Look on the web for Motive Products...I love mine. If that's not an option then you can do it with two people. Bleed right rear, left rear, right front, then left front in that order. You will need about 3 quarts of Dot 3 brake fluid, some (about 2 ft.) clear rubber 3/8 OD hose (which should fit snug over the brake bleeder on the calipers) and a combination wrench of which size I don't know...check 5/16 or so, I don't think it is metric. Cleanliness is paramount with the master cylinder...wipe the master cylinder cap and area around the cap clean BEFORE you open the cap...don't want any foreign material in the resevoir AT ALL!!! Make sure the brake resevoir is full of fluid. Starting at the right rear have your friend sit in the truck. Crack OPEN the bleeder (place hose over the tip of the bleeder) and place other end into a clear quart sized bottle (soft drink bottle will do). On your command have your helper depress the brake pedal and HOLD in the down position. CLOSE the bleeder, then tell your helper to release the brake pedal. Crack OPEN the bleeder and repeat the process...eventually you will see clean brake fluid and no bubbles. It only should take about a quarter turn to open and close the bleeders. Repeat this procedure at the other wheels. KEEP AN EYE ON THE MASTER CYLINDER AND DON'T LET IT RUN DRY OF FLUID. YOU MUST KEEP FLUID IN IT OR YOU WILL HAVE TO START THE WHOLE PROCESS OVER. After I finish mine I go for a drive on a lonely road and stand on the brakes a little to cycle the ABS system...then I go bleed it again...overkill maybe but thats how I do it. with the power bleeder you could make this an annual thing. Any Questions?

P.S. Maybe one of the techs here will chime in and tell us how to cycle the ABS system?

 

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