Rotors
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 550
Likes: 0
From: Sioux City, IA
Rotors
I need to either replace or turn the front rotors on my truck because when braking I get a pretty decent wobble in the steering wheel. O'Reillys will turn them if they have enough 'meat' left on them. They told me the minimum thickness could be 1.475 inches. I pulled the tires off and measured the thickness with a calipre. They each range from 1.475" to 1.481". My questions are:
1. Do you think they would turn them? They told me they have to inspect them before telling me whether or not they will. But I don't have any other wheels to get there, so I have to ride my four wheeler down there. I don't want to do that unless it's certain they will turn them.
2. Would you guys get them turned or just buy new ones?
3. If new, which ones would you buy?
Thanks,
Mike
1. Do you think they would turn them? They told me they have to inspect them before telling me whether or not they will. But I don't have any other wheels to get there, so I have to ride my four wheeler down there. I don't want to do that unless it's certain they will turn them.
2. Would you guys get them turned or just buy new ones?
3. If new, which ones would you buy?
Thanks,
Mike
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,127
Likes: 6
Wasting your time bud.
If you are not towing and carrying a heavy load all the time, you don't need the best.
The cheapest brand new rotor that meets factory spec is your best bet for non-serious use.
Don't even think of turning rotors that are as close to yours.
Oh... do a through brake job, even if it is with not the best (or most expensive) parts.
A through brake job...
Reman calipers from a quality source.
Bearings verified / changed / greased properly.
Hoses / lines checked.
New rotors, and pads reasonably matched to it.
Don't chintz on the job, use inexpensive but good quality parts if you must, but replace everything in sight.
-----------
If you are towing heavy loads, HD... let us know.. different ideas apply.
If you are not towing and carrying a heavy load all the time, you don't need the best.
The cheapest brand new rotor that meets factory spec is your best bet for non-serious use.
Don't even think of turning rotors that are as close to yours.
Oh... do a through brake job, even if it is with not the best (or most expensive) parts.
A through brake job...
Reman calipers from a quality source.
Bearings verified / changed / greased properly.
Hoses / lines checked.
New rotors, and pads reasonably matched to it.
Don't chintz on the job, use inexpensive but good quality parts if you must, but replace everything in sight.
-----------
If you are towing heavy loads, HD... let us know.. different ideas apply.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,127
Likes: 6
Mid grade to low end parts are probably OK.
Be sure you flush the brake system front and back with clean fluid.
Anything extra above that.. put in better front components first, then rear is much lower priority as front does 80% of work.
If you are going for premium stuff, be sure you match pads with rotor.
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 4,202
Likes: 1
From: Illinois
I've had the powerslot rotors/hawk lts pads on mine for 10k miles and love them. They stop and control the truck on a hard brake very well. I was pretty impressed. I tow somewhat heavy frequently and haul heavy alot. Just shop around because they're not the cheapest.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 337
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Trending Topics
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,893
Likes: 3,611
I LOVE my ART rotors that I have on my 7.3L. They have stood up to some real abuse. Who can say what you really need or not ......
Everyone I talk to says stick w/ the OEM pads. Maybe a Tech can track down a part number for you.
Everyone I talk to says stick w/ the OEM pads. Maybe a Tech can track down a part number for you.
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Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 550
Likes: 0
From: Sioux City, IA
Wasting your time bud.
If you are not towing and carrying a heavy load all the time, you don't need the best.
The cheapest brand new rotor that meets factory spec is your best bet for non-serious use.
Don't even think of turning rotors that are as close to yours.
Oh... do a through brake job, even if it is with not the best (or most expensive) parts.
A through brake job...
Reman calipers from a quality source.
Bearings verified / changed / greased properly.
Hoses / lines checked.
New rotors, and pads reasonably matched to it.
Don't chintz on the job, use inexpensive but good quality parts if you must, but replace everything in sight.
-----------
If you are towing heavy loads, HD... let us know.. different ideas apply.
If you are not towing and carrying a heavy load all the time, you don't need the best.
The cheapest brand new rotor that meets factory spec is your best bet for non-serious use.
Don't even think of turning rotors that are as close to yours.
Oh... do a through brake job, even if it is with not the best (or most expensive) parts.
A through brake job...
Reman calipers from a quality source.
Bearings verified / changed / greased properly.
Hoses / lines checked.
New rotors, and pads reasonably matched to it.
Don't chintz on the job, use inexpensive but good quality parts if you must, but replace everything in sight.
-----------
If you are towing heavy loads, HD... let us know.. different ideas apply.
Which bearings are you refering to? The axle bearing?
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,127
Likes: 6
There are many people who never replace calipers ($100 or less for a quality reman a piece) until it reach the leak point.
I routinely replace them with quality remans, which guarantee I get a new seal, boot, slides that are rust free and not binding, and a generally recertified piece of equipment.
It never cease to amaze me that people who spend $$$$ on top-of-the-line rotors, pads, synthetic oil, etc. would chintz on this part.
As for bearings --- if yours have them (on 4WDs it can be a non-replaceable hub)...
I make it a point to open it up (which means new seals), inspect, repack with fresh grease.
If it looks the slightest worn or odd, I put in brand new.
Bearings are cheap unless they are in a hub.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 5,406
Likes: 229
From: Pa
An added note,
Try and find rotors made in america, The ones comin from China have been failing bad on HD trucks around here. I "cheaped out" on back rotors on my 06 250, within 2 mnths (moderate use towing and hauling) you could stick your finger tips in holes where the rotors were actually flaking apart! Napa refunded a small portion of my money and sold me the more expensive (like 10$ a piece) ones made in usa, and I have had no problems since! O and your back rotors warping will make the truck wobble, the same as the front!
Try and find rotors made in america, The ones comin from China have been failing bad on HD trucks around here. I "cheaped out" on back rotors on my 06 250, within 2 mnths (moderate use towing and hauling) you could stick your finger tips in holes where the rotors were actually flaking apart! Napa refunded a small portion of my money and sold me the more expensive (like 10$ a piece) ones made in usa, and I have had no problems since! O and your back rotors warping will make the truck wobble, the same as the front!
< Samantha...my Co-Pilot
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 768
Likes: 11
From: Fallon, Nevada
If you don't have a good working knowledge of servicing hydraulic brakes, or have someone there helping you who has that knowledge, then you should leave that work to a professional. Your brake system is the most important system you have on your truck...your life and the lives of others may depend on it. Not trying to scare you off...just want to make you aware. I was fortunate to have a good family friend who taught me a lot about brakes. I would not turn your rotors...if they measure like you say then they are worn beyond the limit. Are you sure it is the rotors that are causing your problem? Good luck.
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 550
Likes: 0
From: Sioux City, IA
If you don't have a good working knowledge of servicing hydraulic brakes, or have someone there helping you who has that knowledge, then you should leave that work to a professional. Your brake system is the most important system you have on your truck...your life and the lives of others may depend on it. Not trying to scare you off...just want to make you aware. I was fortunate to have a good family friend who taught me a lot about brakes. I would not turn your rotors...if they measure like you say then they are worn beyond the limit. Are you sure it is the rotors that are causing your problem? Good luck.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
From: Southwestern NH
Fifteen years ago when rotors were outlandishly expensive, turning them was much more popular. The reason I always opt for new is that the barely in spec rotor is more likely to warp since it is thinner than before. Also, I live out in the middle of nowhere and going back and forth to save a few bucks isn't worth it to me.