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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks
View Poll Results: What should I do with the cross member under the front cab mounts?
Leave it as it sets. Strength is a good thing and how often does the tranny come out.
6
33.33%
Cut it out, fab up some brackets and bolt it back in. The time is worth it.
9
50.00%
Get rid of it. It serves little purpose now that the Volare suspension is in there.
3
16.67%
Voters: 18. You may not vote on this poll

Keep or remove cross-member???

 
  #16  
Old 02-20-2011, 08:28 AM
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Does the frame twisting logic apply here if you fully box the frame? It is not clear here from the discussion if that step matters or comes into play. I would assume if the frame is boxed then the added rigidity would elimiante the flex exibited by standing on the running boards...
 
  #17  
Old 02-20-2011, 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by rzns60 View Post
Does the frame twisting logic apply here if you fully box the frame? It is not clear here from the discussion if that step matters or comes into play. I would assume if the frame is boxed then the added rigidity would eliminate the flex exhibited by standing on the running boards...
It would help, yes. You still have to mount the transmission though, so some sort of crossmember should be there.

And to the OP, the AOD is a long transmission, so a crossmember further back will be needed for the AOD anyway. With an IFS and IRS you plan on having, I'd consider boxing the entire frame. Where that original crossmember is, I don't know how you could retain it, but maybe two "ears" and a smaller tube or plate connects the two underneath? I'm thinking like what's used on my Fairlane for the engine mounts here. Also, I'm not familiar with how the Y-block mounts in originally, but the flatheads mount up front of the engine, so that's a lot of weight dangling back. The 351W will mount in the middle of the engine, which will take up some of the dangling weight, but not all. Maybe some others can provide pics from their Volare installs.


And one last thought: The 70's 4x4's which I know has a bolted in crossmember in the '78/79's (riveted prior to) has it set up so that the bolts are vertical thus it's a pulling/stretching weight, not a shearing weight...the properties of the bolt work for you this way.
 
  #18  
Old 02-20-2011, 06:29 PM
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Chris,
I would remove it. I have the same set up and it has been on the road for most of twenty years with no problem. Matter of fact I live right across the border from you and if you want to take a look at mine let me know, there is currently no sheet metal around it (some snow) so looking would be easy.
 
  #19  
Old 02-23-2011, 06:07 PM
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I just installed the same setup and it has about 3/4" from the bottom of the AOD pan to the crossmember on the passenger side. I'm leaving it in.

If I have to take out the transmission at a later date, I can always cut out the rivets and rebolt the member back in.

Chris
 
  #20  
Old 02-23-2011, 06:34 PM
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Howdy all,


I believe I'll have the same dilemma,

Using the 292 bolted to the E4OD I have a LONG engine and trans combo.

The cross member is absolutely for frame stiffening in addition to being the rear engine mount.

Removing (entirely) it would reduce the frame strength............ whether or not it would make a (significant) difference is hard to say.

I'll keep mine if I can or I'll replace it with a removable cross piece that I can take off if I want to pull the engine/trans etc....


Regards,



Rick
 
 
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