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I have a 77 f250 4x4, I just got done rebuilding the motor, trany and t-case.
When I pulled it all I removed the cross member. As everyone knows its a PIA. to get out. So while I have it out I have been trying to read up on what others have done so they dont ever have to deal with it again.
I have been thinking of splitting the cross member and bolting it back together with 1/4 plate.
I have a couple of questions,
How much weight does that cross member support?
And I have heard that this cross member is also for keeping the frame from twisting, is this correct ?
If so, Im thinking of building a bolt in member behind the t case to help keep it from twisting if this true.
Would like to see pictures if someone has done any of this.
Thanks
I made up 4 ears with bolt holes, welded them on the crossmember, put it back in and drilled the 4 holes into the frame. It is easy to get in and out now because the bolts are on the outside of the crossmember where you can get at them. I wouldn't expect there is much weight on it. most of the weight is held by the transfer case mount and the trans.
See the triangle drawn in sharpie? I really should have made a pie cut on the patch to follow the angle but never got around to it.
If you haven't cut yours yet, try taking some material off the ends and radius the corners to see if you can reinstall it without cutting. In my case when we were pulling the trans, it wouldn't move more than a half inch no matter how hard we hit it and it wouldn't have cleared the brake line if it had moved.
The thing is those 4 upper bolts that go in the frame are just next to impossible to get at. Are you missing the 2 side plates that bolt on or are they just not on in the pictures ?
Not sure what you mean be side plates. The cross member was one piece until we cut it and there where no additional pieces.
We had two bolts through the upper flange, then through the cross member and one bolt through the forward edge of the cross member into the lower part of the radius arm mount.
Does your cross member look like this? The cut is at the clamp on the bottom right.
Michael
Mark A if this applies for you...? A trick to get to the top 4 nuts. Drill out the bottom frame holes (bigger) to let you get a extension thru it. Open end wrench on the bolt head that is between the frame and the bottom of the cab.
Mark A if this applies for you...? A trick to get to the top 4 nuts. Drill out the bottom frame holes (bigger) to let you get a extension thru it. Open end wrench on the bolt head that is between the frame and the bottom of the cab.
That's a good fix but I have the side plates on mine so I need the bolt holes sized like they are. You can see where the plates were on yours at one time. You can see the ears I made up on mine.
Yikes! Your cross member is ginormouser than mine. And I don't have the side plates.
I used a Harbor Freight swivel socket on a long extension through the center channel of the cross member for at least one if not both of the upper bolts. Ratcheting box wrenches are also useful here.
We made the first bend (1st pic, left side) either in the vise or on the brake then clamped it to the flange. We then used a rosebud on the torch to heat the patch while forming it to the cross member with a bfh. The gap you can see where it crosses over the top is due to the angle formed into the cross member where I drew the triangle. I meant to pie cut the patch to fit the angle better but installed it before I got around to it It does fit tight over most of the upper part, especially where the bolt is but I can see junk filling that gap and causing rust down the road.
Yikes! Your cross member is ginormouser than mine. And I don't have the side plates.
I used a Harbor Freight swivel socket on a long extension through the center channel of the cross member for at least one if not both of the upper bolts. Ratcheting box wrenches are also useful here.
We made the first bend (1st pic, left side) either in the vise or on the brake then clamped it to the flange. We then used a rosebud on the torch to heat the patch while forming it to the cross member with a bfh. The gap you can see where it crosses over the top is due to the angle formed into the cross member where I drew the triangle. I meant to pie cut the patch to fit the angle better but installed it before I got around to it It does fit tight over most of the upper part, especially where the bolt is but I can see junk filling that gap and causing rust down the road.
Michael
I can see the bolt holes for it in your pictures though. You might want to find or make a set. imo it is a good idea to have them on there as it becomes a structural part to the frame once it's all bolted together.
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