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Guys, I have some direction now from a local mechanic. This is the fourth Ford mechanic I have talked with and he sounds like the most experienced. He is also the first local that didn't just "suggest" I change out the center section of the turbo. I'm going to look at some of the things he suggested tomorrow and will post results. If you guys are interested in some of the things he told me, I will post those tomorrow as well. Thank you guys for your input!
Alright. I'm on here rather than working on the truck because Treadwell ford parts guys must have been having a bad day to give me fuel filter and cap rather than oil filter and cap like I asked. Reciept says: "cap", "element" Oh well, Anyway...
Last night I talked with a guy who really sounded like he knew his stuff. He said unless the truck threw a code 299, he would never pull the turbo. There are lots of things to cause boost issues. Beyond the obvious blue rubber hoses between the cooler and turbo, both ends of the cooler in front of the radiator are plastic and have blue rubber O rings. These blow. Also the plastic tube "flex part" between the intake and cooler needs to be looked at. Maybe a few small leaks can add up to low boost.
Next, about the oil in the turbo. He asked how far I drove the truck after I cleaned it. Maybe 10 miles. Then he asked about the turbo oil feed line... is it braided? Yes. Get that crap off there, theres a solid tube upgrade. Those flex lines come apart internally and can cause your vgt to stop up. OK.
What kind of oil filter is on there? Ummmm... I don't know. I've had the truck a week. Look at it. Is it a Napa Gold? Ummmm... Yes. Pull that crap off. Its a good idea, but causes issues. Someone threw away $60 worth of good cap to put that on there. There is a switch that the filter element pushes down and those Napa one piece cap/element don't always press it down far enough. Get a factory cap and element and put on there. Do all that, call me back.
I'm on hold, Ford sold me the wrong cap and element and are 60 mi away.
Well boys, if you guys need someone who can install a turbo or remove one in 45 minutes flat I am your man. If you need a GREAT 6 liter mechanic in Mobile, Al, I have his number. My truck is fixed, and although I spent some on upgrading the oil feed line, and necessaries for an oil change, It took $0 to get my power and boost back.
I was telling Jeff on the phone that I could hear the turbo whistle, and asked if the engine would de-tune itself if the boost pressure sensor was bad. He told me where to look and said it was possible a hose could be stopped up. There is a 1/4 inch rubber line between the intake and the "mass airflow sensor?". I found it cracked from the heat at the intake and it was losing pressure to the sensor. Cut an inch off, re-attached.... result? Boost and performance out the yin -yang.
I bought this immaculate, loaded, 4x4 crew cab truck for $5000 below loan value from a dealer. It ran great for a week or so. When it quit, there were all kinds of signs that it had problems before. The back turbo bolt was missing, all the plugs had majic marker marks, some clips broken on sensors, etc. Some poor guy gave this "problem" truck away over a freaking 1/4 inch rubber hose I'm thinking.
....... There is a 1/4 inch rubber line between the intake and the "mass airflow sensor?". I found it cracked from the heat at the intake and it was losing pressure to the sensor. What a freaking relief.
The sensor you're refering to is the MAP sensor--Manifold Absolute Pressure. It detects boost pressure in the manifold. You might also check the fitting that it attaches to at the intake as it has been known to leak, get loose, or even come out on some models.
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